Warning Buzzer Wiring

dustychops

Cadet
Joined
May 8, 2023
Messages
11
Hi all, this is my first post on the forum.

I purchased my first powerboat 2 months ago. I previously owned a 1972 Pearson 30 sailboat with a Yanmar 2GM20F Diesel.

The boat I bought is a 1998 Boston Whaler Dauntless 15 with a 1998 Mercury 75 two stroke.

I've been fixing issues here and there, mainly fuel delivery problems. Rebuilt fuel pump, changed the water separating fuel filter and inline fuel filer, spark plugs, replaced the oil level sensor, the temperature switch sensor, the oil reservoir tank, the tachometer, the temperature gage, and the warning buzzer.

This has mostly restored performance from a maximum of 22 MPH at 3,450 RPMs to 32 MPH at 4,600 RPMs. I'll eventually tackle the carburetors and try to get the rest of the RPMs, but for now I'm more concerned with not overheating the engine.

What was strange to me, and maybe this is just because I'm not familiar with how a two stroke motor operates, is that when I turn the key to the "On" position, the buzzer will not emit a sound. I read someone's post that the reason the buzzer emits a noise when the key is "On" but the engine is not running, is because there is no oil pressure until the engine starts. Once the pressure is restored by the engine turning over, the warning buzzer will stop.

Being that this is obviously a two stroke motor and the oil is part of the fuel, I don't have an oil pressure sensor to alarm immediately upon turning the key to the "On" position.

After viewing the schematics for the engine and being naïve, I became convinced that everything on the boat worked at some point in time. I assumed that the temperature switch was actually a temperature sender unit and tried to hook it up to the temperature gage. After failing, and going on a which hunt with every sensor on the engine, I finally watched a Youtube of a guy explaining that the temperature sender is an optional feature and the hole is filled with a brass plug. I've since fished a new wire into the console for this purchased temperature sender unit.

The only two sensors that are hooked up to the alarm are the Temperature switch (On or Off 180 degrees), and the low oil reservoir ( On or Off float switch magnet).

Please see attached Visio picture export I created of the current wiring of the boat.

My issue is that with this wiring , I can't get the buzzer to operate at all. I've tried to artificially trigger the float switch with a magnet and can't get the buzzer to sound during engine operation. The only time I can get the buzzer to sound, is when I take the last leg of the signal wire that is not attached to anything ( I found this wire tapped up with another unused wire for the trim indicator wire) to ground.
 

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alldodge

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Messages
42,286
The buzzer (Alarm) sounds when a sensor switch grounds. In your case it should during overheat or low oil tank

The buzzer needs 12V power to one side which is powered up when the key is turned to ON (run).
The other side of the buzzer goes to each of the sensor switches

gnd.jpg
 

dustychops

Cadet
Joined
May 8, 2023
Messages
11
The buzzer (Alarm) sounds when a sensor switch grounds. In your case it should during overheat or low oil tank

The buzzer needs 12V power to one side which is powered up when the key is turned to ON (run).
The other side of the buzzer goes to each of the sensor switches

View attachment 378767
What does this mean? I'm clearly missing a piece to this puzzle. It looks like a single purple wire leaves the ignition switch and then splits into three. I have two purple wires leaving the ignition switch. One of the legs breaks off into two. I'm assuming all the purple wires are exactly the same so it shouldn't matter which purple wire terminates where. If you look at the first attachment, the purple wire is drawn close to the ground of the warning signal wires. I don't understand those symbols. Is the purple interacting with this circuit?
 

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alldodge

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Your looking in the wrong area for the buzzer/alarm
Note: All purple wires are powered up by the key being turned ON. Doesn't matter where they go they all are powered by the key

The Tan/Blue wire is what goes to all switches to sound the horn by the switch grounding

buzzer.jpg
 

dustychops

Cadet
Joined
May 8, 2023
Messages
11
Your looking in the wrong area for the buzzer/alarm
Note: All purple wires are powered up by the key being turned ON. Doesn't matter where they go they all are powered by the key

The Tan/Blue wire is what goes to all switches to sound the horn by the switch grounding

View attachment 378788
Thank you @alldodge.
After work today, I removed the oil tank sensor again and tried to trigger it with a magnet. My neighbor came over to small talk so I tried to show her the horn was working but not the sensor by grounding the sensor wire that legs off the horn. Horn would not sound. Turns out, I had a loose wire nut connecting the purple to the horn. Connected it and I was able to trigger the oil level sensor with the magnet to sound the horn. Thanks for looking into this and sorry to waste your time!
 

alldodge

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Messages
42,286
All good and no problem-o
We have all done it at least once and many such as me has happened more then once :censored:
 
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