VRO Rebuild Kit

[Riley C]

Hi I-boaters,

Happy Summer for the USA folk!

I recently decided to replace the diaphragm kit for my 98 150, 60 Looper. Even though the motor runs fine it was more prevention because I don't have genuine hours. Motor looks brand new but you never know internally.

After reassembling the pumpset and starting the motor. I realised the only thing I forgot per OMC manual was to lube the metal stem between the diaphragms. Will this damage the unit? Or will mixed fuel lubricate the stem in this area anyway?

I started her up in the test tank today. Works a treat, if anything a little less oil use at idle (I was having over oil issues previously). Short Revs to 4k in the large test tank easy, I don't want to go over this and have a runaway engine.

No alarms or anything an its was running high revs to low over 25min. I'll run a little premix when I go in the water. The OMS tank is definitely draining though, which is a good sign.

Would you boys say I'm the clear and can go on the water?

Photos show the condition of the existing kit, brand new. Almost like the items replacing it.

Be good to hear what you blokes think.

Chris1956 Faztbullet Bosnmate oldboat1 jakedaawg

 

[flyingscott]

I would not be using the oil side after a rebuild. Lube the stem.

 

[Riley C]

I would not be using the oil side after a rebuild. Lube the stem.

Thanks,

I will pull it down again and lube it.

Is there a reason to not use it anymore, does it become that much more unreliable. I didn’t pull the Oil side down at all, just fuel and air sides.

 

[jakedaawg]

Sending PM to avoid Vro argument thread

 

[flyingscott]

The rebuild kits seem to not have the longevity of the original. Also if you think the fuel side needed to be rebuilt why not the oil side?? I prefer either eliminating the oil side on a rebuild or just buying a new OMS pump. I personally like the vro pump but I do not rebuild them ever. For the.price of a quality kit you can get a premix only VRO pump.

 

[Riley C]

The rebuild kits seem to not have the longevity of the original. Also if you think the fuel side needed to be rebuilt why not the oil side?? I prefer either eliminating the oil side on a rebuild or just buying a new OMS pump. I personally like the vro pump but I do not rebuild them ever. For the.price of a quality kit you can get a premix only VRO pump.

Fair enough,

I get the feeling I shouldn't have touched the pump then. I literally was only replacing the diaphragms on the OMS, as I didn't know the condition of it. It was more of a preventive maintenance.

Reading on other threads here guys have replaced them with ease.

Bit scared of the reliability of it now.

I pulled it down and lubed a new stem. It fired right up fine, no issues with revs or misses.

Its definitely oiling and there were no alarms.

The BRP parts were $160 Aus, I didn't think it was that pricey. The quality premix pumps you speak of are more expensive here to change over hoses and delete warning from system check.

 

[Riley C]

Sending PM to avoid Vro argument thread

Thanks for the message Jake,

Unfortunately I couldn't reply to it for some reason. See reply to Flyingscott.

 

[cfauvel]

The stem should be getting fuel and oil mixed to it. The stem is right next to the brown flapper valve so on the stroke where it pushes fuel up the top it should be lubricating that stem. eventually that bore will enlarge.

My oms is from 1999, and still working as needed sooooooo. I wouldn't worry about it enlarging too much.

If you do your Low-oil, No-oil and oil-consumption tests as per the manual then you are good to go...I assume the tach is working....you need the tach pulse fo rthe no-oil warning to work.

don't know if you stumbled on my thread from a few years ago, but some interesting things.(take note of the UPDATES where I corrected myself)

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...tle-insight-into-the-oil-side-of-the-vro2-oms

 

[Riley C]

The stem should be getting fuel and oil mixed to it. The stem is right next to the brown flapper valve so on the stroke where it pushes fuel up the top it should be lubricating that stem. eventually that bore will enlarge.

My oms is from 1999, and still working as needed sooooooo. I wouldn't worry about it enlarging too much.

If you do your Low-oil, No-oil and oil-consumption tests as per the manual then you are good to go...I assume the tach is working....you need the tach pulse fo rthe no-oil warning to work.

don't know if you stumbled on my thread from a few years ago, but some interesting things.(take note of the UPDATES where I corrected myself)

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...tle-insight-into-the-oil-side-of-the-vro2-oms

Thanks for the information Cfauvel,

Wish I never pulled the damn thing apart after reading the reliability of them after replacing diaphragms.

Might have to buy a spare pump.

 

[cfauvel]

I hope you bought the OEM repair kit and not the cheap chinese kit from ebay. They're the ones that don't last long...but when they fail your motor just won't run. Sucks but not catastrophic

NEVER buy the the cheap pump from ebay....only get OEM which unfortunately are getting pretty expensive. The chinese ones tend to be DOA...also not catastrophic, but sucks that you have to wait to get a replacement...and I personally don't trust the materials used nor the electronics for the no-oil warning....

 

[Riley C]

I hope you bought the OEM repair kit and not the cheap chinese kit from ebay. They're the ones that don't last long...but when they fail your motor just won't run. Sucks but not catastrophic

NEVER buy the the cheap pump from ebay....only get OEM which unfortunately are getting pretty expensive. The chinese ones tend to be DOA...also not catastrophic, but sucks that you have to wait to get a replacement...and I personally don't trust the materials used nor the electronics for the no-oil warning....

Thanks,

I had read your post on continuous wave. One of the reasons I was ok with pulling the pump down.

I only ever buy BRP parts. My investment is for this motor to last the test of time.

It hasn’t don’t many hours, but they couldn’t be definitely confirmed as the meter include the hours from the previous Omc 88 140hp, owner said.

Im just pissed I was be careful (preventative maintenance) in buying the kit, as I was having a little over oil issue. It wasn’t the pump slight warped bowls, the pump diaphragm was fine.

Now from forum posts I feel like I just jeopardise the pump life from pulling it down.

It does run well though.

 

[cfauvel]

Thanks,

I had read your post on continuous wave. One of the reasons I was ok with pulling the pump down.

I only ever buy BRP parts. My investment is for this motor to last the test of time.

It hasn’t don’t many hours, but they couldn’t be definitely confirmed as the meter include the hours from the previous Omc 88 140hp, owner said.

Im just pissed I was be careful (preventative maintenance) in buying the kit, as I was having a little over oil issue. It wasn’t the pump slight warped bowls, the pump diaphragm was fine.

Now from forum posts I feel like I just jeopardise the pump life from pulling it down.

It does run well though.

Carb Bowls? yeah that's not good.

Did you keep the old diaphragms? if so keep them in a ziplock back in the house somewhere ...they'll be good.

 

[Riley C]

Carb Bowls? yeah that's not good.

Did you keep the old diaphragms? if so keep them in a ziplock back in the house somewhere ...they'll be good.

I did keep the diaphragms in a sealed bag.

Did you replace the o'rings on the pump outlet that back into the housing? If not did you put a special sealant on them?

 

[Chris1956]

Over oiling can be caused by a air leak into the gasoline fuel line. A good place to check is the main strainer, under the airbox. It should have an oring and gasket to seal it. Other places are water separators and antisiphon valve fittings.

The larger the air leak the more over oiling...

 

[Riley C]

Over oiling can be caused by a air leak into the gasoline fuel line. A good place to check is the main strainer, under the airbox. It should have an oring and gasket to seal it. Other places are water separators and antisiphon valve fittings.

The larger the air leak the more over oiling...

Thanks Chris,

I have sorted any air leaks now, the primer bulb stays firm for over 12hrs. So a good result.

I just got to trust the pump now. Run premix for 10hrs before going just VRO. Hopefully system check will pickup any issues going forward.

 

[cfauvel]

Thanks Chris,

I have sorted any air leaks now, the primer bulb stays firm for over 12hrs. So a good result.

I just got to trust the pump now. Run premix for 10hrs before going just VRO. Hopefully system check will pickup any issues going forward.

u have the manual, be sure to run the NO-OIL testing procedure and low-oil testing procedure and oil-consumption test...the latter can be really skipped if you are running a premix and SEE that the oil is being consumed.

If you haven't done it already ...clean out the oil reservoir and clean the filter sock....it was a problem in the past where the oil would turn into a jelly, plug up the suction tube and NOT deliver oil ...

 

[cfauvel]

I did keep the diaphragms in a sealed bag.

Did you replace the o'rings on the pump outlet that back into the housing? If not did you put a special sealant on them?

If you feel the o-rings for the inlet and outlet nubs are leaking then yeah go ahead and replace them....they tend to NOT go bad though....do not use sealant...the o-rings are enough.

 

[jakedaawg]

u have the manual, be sure to run the NO-OIL testing procedure and low-oil testing procedure and oil-consumption test...the latter can be really skipped if you are running a premix and SEE that the oil is being consumed.

If you haven't done it already ...clean out the oil reservoir and clean the filter sock....it was a problem in the past where the oil would turn into a jelly, plug up the suction tube and NOT deliver oil ...

Also, replace oil tank cap...that's the vent. Bad cap=no oil. Nothing lasts forever. No real way to check that I know of. I just replace the caps every 4 or 5 years. They are cheap.

 

[Riley C]

Cheers guys,

I will do the OMS system check test as per the manual.

I did what you both noted above about 5 months ago on the whole oil and fuel system. Vented cap is brand new along with clean tank and filter.

On the pump outlet o’ring, I did put a little silicon lube on it, I’ll take it off.

The fuel system holds pressure on primer for 8-10hrs firmly. So assume it’s all good regarding o’rings, needles and floats.

I know the oil side is working, as I marked lines on the tanks to measure consumption. I haven’t completed the consumption test as the manual describes yet.

I will do the test in the tank tomorrow, take prop off and give it a good run.