First - I find this forum to be the most informative out there, and to those who help everyone here...many thanks.
Second - I know I need to get a manual, but haven't done it, yet. I will be getting one this week.
OK...I've spent the last 2 days reading through several forums (including this one), and I believe I can get a straight/correct answer here...
Aq131a/275 - Fresh Water only
This is a fresh purchase, and a close check of the engine and ignition system show no "shadetree" mechanicing (no spliced wires, elec. or duct tape, all shrink tubing, connection caps, and wire ties/looms are in place. No aluminum foil, aftermarket parts, etc...). In fact, from the looks of the interior, the previous owner didn't like to do any work himself. The engine room has more cobwebs than anything else.
No spark at the coil wire when held close to metal and engine is cranked.
9v at + on the coil with ign on. 0.L off. Coil and coil wire replaced. Starter cranks merrily away. I have 5 gel cell batteries I keep fresh for my camper, so juice isn't an issue.
Currently, one screw on the dist. cap is stuck, so until I can get it off so I can check the points, rotor, etc...my question -
I see several posts related to this issue, and I firmly believe (based on those posts), it's either the points or condensor. However, I have seen a couple of posts commenting on 2 wires going to positive on the coil. I only have one wire to +, and one to -. these are still running through the shrink tube, and have (what appears to be) their original connectors on them. Is it the points that actually "tell" the coil to release its charge, or the condensor, or something else? I don't have much experience with pointed ignitions, just one VW about 20 years ago.
The previous owner had all of his work done at a shop, so I don't believe I should have 2 wires going to +, but I would like to hear from someone who has experience on these engines.
Also, I see for the Capri models that there is a number (1900, 1950, 2150, etc...). This would probably be good to know, but I am unable to find it on the boat. Is there a decal hidden somewhere that has this data, or do I have to cross ref. the HIN somewhere?
One more thing - I have seen some people swap their fresh water intake hose (coming from the outdrive to the heat exchanger) for a clear one. Is there a pressure rating for this hose? The one on it does appear to be pressure hose, and I'd hate to replace it with something that can't handle it, but think a clear tube does make sense.
Any information you can provide is greatly appreciated.
Second - I know I need to get a manual, but haven't done it, yet. I will be getting one this week.
OK...I've spent the last 2 days reading through several forums (including this one), and I believe I can get a straight/correct answer here...
Aq131a/275 - Fresh Water only
This is a fresh purchase, and a close check of the engine and ignition system show no "shadetree" mechanicing (no spliced wires, elec. or duct tape, all shrink tubing, connection caps, and wire ties/looms are in place. No aluminum foil, aftermarket parts, etc...). In fact, from the looks of the interior, the previous owner didn't like to do any work himself. The engine room has more cobwebs than anything else.
No spark at the coil wire when held close to metal and engine is cranked.
9v at + on the coil with ign on. 0.L off. Coil and coil wire replaced. Starter cranks merrily away. I have 5 gel cell batteries I keep fresh for my camper, so juice isn't an issue.
Currently, one screw on the dist. cap is stuck, so until I can get it off so I can check the points, rotor, etc...my question -
I see several posts related to this issue, and I firmly believe (based on those posts), it's either the points or condensor. However, I have seen a couple of posts commenting on 2 wires going to positive on the coil. I only have one wire to +, and one to -. these are still running through the shrink tube, and have (what appears to be) their original connectors on them. Is it the points that actually "tell" the coil to release its charge, or the condensor, or something else? I don't have much experience with pointed ignitions, just one VW about 20 years ago.
The previous owner had all of his work done at a shop, so I don't believe I should have 2 wires going to +, but I would like to hear from someone who has experience on these engines.
Also, I see for the Capri models that there is a number (1900, 1950, 2150, etc...). This would probably be good to know, but I am unable to find it on the boat. Is there a decal hidden somewhere that has this data, or do I have to cross ref. the HIN somewhere?
One more thing - I have seen some people swap their fresh water intake hose (coming from the outdrive to the heat exchanger) for a clear one. Is there a pressure rating for this hose? The one on it does appear to be pressure hose, and I'd hate to replace it with something that can't handle it, but think a clear tube does make sense.
Any information you can provide is greatly appreciated.