Volvo Penta AQD40A/TMD40A rebuild cost

Fishjustin87

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I picked up a 23 FT Glasply that has what I believe is a siezed TMD40/AQD40A engine. I have not really played with diesel engines. Before. I plan on restoring this boat to get it back on the water. The starter is off and some gearing at the top of the VP 280 is removed. Appears to have been rebuilt and is in the cabin. The crank does not turn. Is there anything else that would restrict the crank from turning? The controls show in neutral. Oil is dark but does not show any water. If it is seized and I remove it what is an average cost to have the the longblock rebuilt? My backup plan will be a crate 350 long block.
 

alldodge

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I think your saying the engine has been removed and is sitting in the cabin. If the head is still on it and it doesn't turn any then its probably seized. Rebuild of a diesel cost more then a gas because parts cost more, add to the VP brand, then that to will increase cost. What it will cost depends on what the motor needs, and needs to come apart to determine
 

Fishjustin87

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Thanks. I should have proof read that. The engine is still currently installed. The part in the cabin that appears to be rebuilt is off the top of the outdrive. Is a diesel like any other engine as far as checking the crank? Sounds stupid but wanted to make sure there are no additional steps with a diesel
 

alldodge

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Gas and diesel is similar machine and checking. A diesel would not get over bored like a gas would. It either has replaceable sleeves or gets bored and sleeved. Always uses original bore and piston size. Timing is set during assembly and no adjustment once running
 

QBhoy

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Lots of these great engines in boats across here in the U.K. very common and well known for being almost bullet proof.
If it has a outdrive it will be an AQ.
very very rare for these to go wrong generally.
I would start with taking the injectors out and trying to turn it over if you think it’s seized....but worth mentioning that you would be of super human strength to turn over a 6 cylinder diesel lump like this. Not to be compared with a petrol engine.
Do you definitely think it’s seized ? Could it be an issue with the starter or even the battery ? They have some serious compression on them.
 

Fishjustin87

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Currently the way it sits the starter had been removed by the previous owner. Before gambling more $ on a starter for this venture I wanted to make sure it's not seized. The water pump innards have been pulled and the gear box has been removed. The gearbox is in the cabin with a shop tag on it that makes me think it has been rebuilt. I don't know much about diesels so I am trying to verify what my 1st steps should be to inspect the engine. Should I buy a starter and see if she cranks then go from there? With the injectors in the grank pulley bolt will not budge and I do t want to snap the crank bolt.
 

alldodge

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Being an unknown, I would remove valve cover to inspect. If it looks good and clean, then do as QBouy mentioned and remove the injectors. With injectors removed it should be easy enough to turn.

With injectors removed and it still wil not move, I would remove head and see what the cylinders look like.

A head gasket at VP $298 is and valve cover gasket $56, starter $2596 new, used probably half
 

Fishjustin87

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Thanks. I will try to update when I get time play with it. Was your starter price accurate?
 

bowler

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VP parts are sooo expensive. Takes a bit of getting used to.

Injection pump - 6000 euros
Intercooler element - 2000 euros
Oil cooler - 3000 euros
etc...

To name but a few!

D.
 

Fishjustin87

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One last question, I went ahead and just gambled buying an after market starter for about $160. It bolts right up and hooked up the main power supply wires and the three to the Solenoid where it looked correct but got no click or anything from the ignition. Decided to try and just test it by applying power as if I was bench testing it. I put power to the 12 volt post and took a jumper from the small post. I got nothing until I accidentally touched the frame of the starter. Then came the click. I assume that the motor is frozen but wanted to be sure I wasn't overlooking something?
 

alldodge

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Check your ground cable, remove it from the block and look close at both ends, under the insulation if possible

12 volt post and took a jumper from the small post

Assuming the jumper went from the large post to the small post closest to the block with the Yellow/Red wire
 

QBhoy

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Hi

Honestly now...never mind all the starters and jumpers and earths just now. Crack open the injectors and de compress the cylinders. There is serious compression in these things. Just to turn these things over will take almost double the CCA of your average shirt block GM v8 petrol.
get it off load and see if you can turn it over. Unless it’s had a seriously careless owner previously these things very rarely break. Total war horses. More likely the outdrive it might be attached to is causing it to be locked up than the actual engine.
 

Fishjustin87

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Alright. As I thought the motor is frozen. I got the injectors out and the crank wont budge. Also the gearbox has already been removed. Because most parts for these things are obsolete I am trying to decide if it's worth pulling the head to inspect the top end or just rip it out. Is there another motor that would bolt in place and use the same exhaust, mounts? Thinking I can pull the diesel and install a new stronger driven Petro motor, or find a running take out that would be worth rebuilding if parts can be found. This stupid virus may be wffecting my employment status so now I'm torn on what my next steps should be.
 
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