volvo-penta AQ 280 propeller cone/nut

[strauss18]

Hey folks, new to this forum. tried searching for information related to my concern. although i came up empty handed. if someone finds an old thread sorry in advance!
dilemma, ive got a '76 glastron t187 with a merc 302 i/o and volvo-penta AQ 280 outdrive on. got a smokin' deal from a local.. long story short, propeller is mangled. I've ordered a new turning point prop and hub kit. BUT, reading through service manual and physically removing original propeller. i have a " long hub " equipped leg, with a 1st design propeller cone/nut.
2nd design has a through hole with a lock bolt that's tapped into the prop shaft..
now, i am an automotive technician by trade, so drilling/tapping isn't a stress factor for me, and service manual calls for a drill jig that is almost worth as much as the boat lol .
main question is, can i just run a regular castle nut/ nyloc nut instead of cone? or am i dropping the cone off at a buddies shop with a Bridgeport to square off and hollow the cone to allow me to tap prop shaft and install through fastener?
I'm not totally against janky repairs. my first thought was to just jamb it full of purple Loctite and see what happens lol. but if the cone can be omitted and a nut is fine, hunky dory, no further action required. the internet is wishy washy on information regarding propeller cones. some say it prevent cavitation, some says its for aesthetics only.
TL;DR
can I omit propeller cone? or am I doomed to try and find old parts?

 

[strauss18]

Hey folks, new to this forum. tried searching for information related to my concern. although i came up empty handed. if someone finds an old thread sorry in advance!
dilemma, ive got a '76 glastron t187 with a merc 302 i/o and volvo-penta AQ 280 outdrive on. got a smokin' deal from a local.. long story short, propeller is mangled. I've ordered a new turning point prop and hub kit. BUT, reading through service manual and physically removing original propeller. i have a " long hub " equipped leg, with a 1st design propeller cone/nut.
2nd design has a through hole with a lock bolt that's tapped into the prop shaft..
now, i am an automotive technician by trade, so drilling/tapping isn't a stress factor for me, and service manual calls for a drill jig that is almost worth as much as the boat lol .
main question is, can i just run a regular castle nut/ nyloc nut instead of cone? or am i dropping the cone off at a buddies shop with a Bridgeport to square off and hollow the cone to allow me to tap prop shaft and install through fastener?
I'm not totally against janky repairs. my first thought was to just jamb it full of purple Loctite and see what happens lol. but if the cone can be omitted and a nut is fine, hunky dory, no further action required. the internet is wishy washy on information regarding propeller cones. some say it prevent cavitation, some says its for aesthetics only.
TL;DR
can I omit propeller cone? or am I doomed to try and find old parts?

 

[Scott Danforth]

its a nut and a convergence cone.

they still sell them

 

[captmello]

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[strauss18]

thanks for the help guys, any chance of getting more detailed pictures of the jig thats supposed to be used for drilling the prop shaft?

 

[captmello]

https://www.volvopentastore.com/mall/image/view/7/8/26981_1.png

it sounds like you have a short hub outdrive.
in the pic #43 is a metal ring with tabs that lock the cone instead of the bolt. the pic shows the bolt also, but it wasn't always used.

 

[captmello]

All Products | iBoats

Since 1998, iboats is the most trusted water lifestyle online store for boat parts and accessories, boats for sale, and forums. Enjoy great priced products with fast shipping.

www.volvopentastore.com

 

[strauss18]

https://www.volvopentastore.com/mall/image/view/7/8/26981_1.png

it sounds like you have a short hub outdrive.
in the pic #43 is a metal ring with tabs that lock the cone instead of the bolt. the pic shows the bolt also, but it wasn't always used.

just first design, actual shaft length is long vs.. only thing im wondering now is if i can just omit the cone and get a regular nut and tang washer rather then tapping the propeller shaft and finding a new cone with hole for said fastener

 

[72fj40]

6 or 7 yrs ago, we ran across the same problem with our early aq280. We needed a new prop and I think we could only find props for the later tapped shaft. Either searching this websight or the internet I found where folks had made a jig so the prop shaft could be drilled and tapped. I think it was basically a capped piece of pipe that fit over the prop shaft with a hole center drilled in it. I then found a used cone on ebay at a reasonable price. A couple yrs later we adapted a dou prop lower unit. Personally. I wouldn't rig a locking nut on to the shaft. Losing a prop quickly ends your day.

 

[strauss18]

6 or 7 yrs ago, we ran across the same problem with our early aq280. We needed a new prop and I think we could only find props for the later tapped shaft. Either searching this websight or the internet I found where folks had made a jig so the prop shaft could be drilled and tapped. I think it was basically a capped piece of pipe that fit over the prop shaft with a hole center drilled in it. I then found a used cone on ebay at a reasonable price. A couple yrs later we adapted a dou prop lower unit. Personally. I wouldn't rig a locking nut on to the shaft. Losing a prop quickly ends your day.

thats a good idea, i was trying to find a drill jig of some sort online but they area few and far between . piece of pipe is a good call thanks for that.

 

[strauss18]

just wanted to chime in on this thread, i used a turning point propller with a #510 hub, as listed for 17 spline,
was required to get a new threaded prop cone/nut and drill and tap propeller shaft. i did try several different ways of securing propeller, none felt sturdy enough to risk 400 canuckistan doll hairs. prop cone and nylon washer was 120 dollars extra cad.. propeller shaft drilled and tapped easy. suprisingly. i figured it would've been a hardened shaft. i didn't use a drill jig just free balled it because the shaft is already centric. keep it square.
time out of the lake, ran it for about 18 hrs total, prop nut still tight and keep bolt tight. no loctite or bs required.
thanks for the tips guys.