Volvo penta 4.3 gxi rough running

Hotrod758

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Apr 11, 2021
Messages
31
I have a volvo penta 4.3 gxi-e changed pickup tube and the one way valve then the gas line and fuel filters and engine runs just fine but sometimes at idle it will just started running bad can't idle it up backfiring and then after messing with the throttle it will finally straighten out abd be fine the rest of the day then the next day same thing I'll be out for awhile boating and randomly act up then it is fine until the next time could it be a fuel pump? I've changed gad and added seafoam just kinda mind blown here
 

alldodge

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Could be a few things, and with it on again off again would look at sensor connections. Disconnect each and see if any need cleaning.

Could check fuel pressure to see if it's on the edge of where it should be (50 to 60 psi).

You have a flat distributor cap (many call them crap cap) that are known to fail and cause issues without warming. Many keep an extra in the boat because of it
 

dingbat

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Nov 20, 2001
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The back firing points to a failing fuel pump, but could also be the TPS acting up
 

Hotrod758

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Thankyou guys I will try fuel pumps and new distributor and spark plugs before this weekend
 

tpenfield

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Fuel injected engines really need the computer diagnostic software to figure out what is wrong. Otherwise, you are taking shots in the dark.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Yes. Check out Rinda

Check that the fuel pressure is constant. Make sure the fuel pump is running.

Neighbors '06 4.3GXI has a failed ECM. The fuel pump was studdering like Mel Tillis.

ECM was sent in to Bob. Non- repairable.
 

Hotrod758

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
31
Yes. Check out Rinda

Check that the fuel pressure is constant. Make sure the fuel pump is running.

Neighbors '06 4.3GXI has a failed ECM. The fuel pump was studdering like Mel Tillis.

ECM was sent in to Bob. Non- repairable.
Thankyou
 

stouchton

Seaman
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Feb 12, 2018
Messages
55
IAC?? My one engine would sometimes struggle to idle, then run fine for a day or two, then act up again. Fired up great Thursday, and ran fine. Anchored all day, then would not start. Was running back on the other and managed to start the troublesome one. Ran great. Shut down, then would not restart. Installed new IAC and all is well.
 

Hotrod758

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Apr 11, 2021
Messages
31
IAC?? My one engine would sometimes struggle to idle, then run fine for a day or two, then act up again. Fired up great Thursday, and ran fine. Anchored all day, then would not start. Was running back on the other and managed to start the troublesome one. Ran great. Shut down, then would not restart. Installed new IAC and all is well.
Thankyou I will get a new one abd try that
 

tpenfield

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Beware of the parts cannon . . .
Parts-Cannon.png
.
It is best to have the Rinda Diacom software, in order to pin-point the problem. It usually pays for itself on the first use.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,320
Yes. Check out Rinda

Check that the fuel pressure is constant. Make sure the fuel pump is running.

Neighbors '06 4.3GXI has a failed ECM. The fuel pump was studdering like Mel Tillis.

ECM was sent in to Bob. Non- repairable.
Are they going to convert back to a carb?
 

Donald0039

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Jun 11, 2022
Messages
401
Your are either going to buy a Rinda Diacom now or later. Especially if located in an area where the bulk of boats are outboard. Few people to work on I/O.

I bought a small Acer laptop and have two OBDII scanners for vehicles and Diacom for my VP I/O.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,320
Agreed if you’re going to try to DIY with a modern boat just like modern vehicles the scanners are a necessity. Those of us with old school boat still have to depend on traditional troubleshooting methods….
 

cyclops222

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Mar 21, 2024
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Told the wife and daughter.
Small boat with Evinrude and 1 gallon of gasoline. Viking Funeral. (y)(y)(y)
 

Hotrod758

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Apr 11, 2021
Messages
31
So I did some work on the boat new pumps and new iac and it runs alot better now but ! I still like 1000 to 1500 rpms will have it wanna just shut off but idle is fine and 2000 rpms and above no issues idk just can't figure that one out
 

ESGWheel

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2015
Messages
346
Intermittent issues are tough to resolve as you are experiencing. And while part of a shotgun approach, this check does not require buying new parts: checking and cleaning the MAP sensor. Let me explain:

We all understand that these marine engines do not have intake air filters, instead a spark arrestor. While it may appear to be like a filter, we tend to forget it’s not. And while on the water there is not a need for a filter, the wearing down over time of the serpentine belt creates a ‘dust’ that will pass right thru the spark arrestor and given enough time will also deposit on the MAP sensor. Debris on the sensor will cause it to respond differently at different throttle settings and behave sporadically.

Suggest do this simple check: pull the sensor and check it for debris and even if none found, clean it. Be sensitive for the ‘how to’ clean > you can damage it so google on how to clean them. This whole process can be done in 15 minutes with the boat still on the water, so you will know right away if that was it. And if not, well was only 15 min and the cost of a can of MAP sensor cleaner.

PS: the spark arrestor will eventually build up debris from belt wear as well as other ‘dirt’ > thus cleaning it should be on the annual maintenance program. I soak mine in a bucket of warm water with some Simple Green and periodically agitate it while doing all the other preseason checks. Then thoroughly rinse and dry using compressed air (low pressure) + sitting in the sun.
 

Hotrod758

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
31
Intermittent issues are tough to resolve as you are experiencing. And while part of a shotgun approach, this check does not require buying new parts: checking and cleaning the MAP sensor. Let me explain:

We all understand that these marine engines do not have intake air filters, instead a spark arrestor. While it may appear to be like a filter, we tend to forget it’s not. And while on the water there is not a need for a filter, the wearing down over time of the serpentine belt creates a ‘dust’ that will pass right thru the spark arrestor and given enough time will also deposit on the MAP sensor. Debris on the sensor will cause it to respond differently at different throttle settings and behave sporadically.

Suggest do this simple check: pull the sensor and check it for debris and even if none found, clean it. Be sensitive for the ‘how to’ clean > you can damage it so google on how to clean them. This whole process can be done in 15 minutes with the boat still on the water, so you will know right away if that was it. And if not, well was only 15 min and the cost of a can of MAP sensor cleaner.

PS: the spark arrestor will eventually build up debris from belt wear as well as other ‘dirt’ > thus cleaning it should be on the annual maintenance program. I soak mine in a bucket of warm water with some Simple Green and periodically agitate it while doing all the other preseason checks. Then thoroughly rinse and dry using compressed air (low pressure) + sitting in the sun.
That would make so mich since when I bought the boat they had just replaced the belt and the engine had black dust alllll over it so I will most definitely look at that!
 

ESGWheel

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 29, 2015
Messages
346
If you have black dust all over it there may be another issue that is causing excessive belt wear. Here is a post (link) regarding that, but first let’s get the engine running sorted out and after we’ll get to the excessive belt wear that I suspect you will experience if there was "back dust all over the place".

Please keep posting your results and finding. Good luck!
 
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