Volvo-Penta 3.0 - water in oil and other issues.

[cloudix]

This is my daughters boat - she just towed to our home and wants me to have a look at it! I know a bit about engines, but mostly sailboat diesels, outboards and cars. I have never owned a real power boat! I am a total newbie when it comes to outdrives!

What I have been able to gather:
- a few weeks before engine failed, she had a burning smell from engine, so limped back to marina. Marina replaced the water pump.
- When engine failed, there was a knocking sound coming from engine but she still was able to limp back to marina.
- Marina found water in oil. They changed the oil and restarted the engine. But soon there was water in the oil again. For some reason they also though there might be a bad piston?
Back home,
I checked the oil and it still has water in it (it is milky!)
I disconnected the ignition and turned the engine over briefly. No knocking sounds.
Likely unrelated, but found alternator belt was broken. Alternator spins.

Considering what next steps should be?
Maybe:
- remove plugs and spin engine to see if there is water in cylinders?
- Do a compression test?
- drain the oil
- what other preliminary checks?
- Maybe remove head? Can this be done in place?

I will likely need a shop manual. Found one in Spanish on-line Any free links to English versions?

If preliminary checks show it is more than a blown head gasket, engine would likely need to be replaced or rebuilt. Boat is OK, but not great. Any idea on cost in Canada to replace with new block? I am not equipped or at an age where I would take on the replacement.

Only sticker I have found so far on engine is on valve cover and it only lists Volvo patent numbers. I need to find serial number at least.

 

[alldodge]

Which VP 3.0 is it? Got a serial number?

So far as the motor workings its a GM industrial motor. Can use a Mercruiser motor manual for same year

Considering what next steps should be?
Maybe:
- remove plugs and spin engine to see if there is water in cylinders?
- Do a compression test?
- drain the oil
- what other preliminary checks?
- Maybe remove head? Can this be done in place?

Yes to all your questions above. Check for water in cylinders now, don't want it to rust up. Most likely it blew a head gasket from overheating

 

[cloudix]

Thanks. I will get back at it in morning, I couldn't initially find any plates with serial number on the engine, but will have a closer look. I did find a manual for one version.

 

[cloudix]

I found some numbers:
Boat number (Sunrider) ends in L798 which likely means this is a 98 model, built in 97. If engine is original, that would likely make it a 97.

Drive plate - T0819764 Ratio 2.18



Engine block - starboard side rear on block GM 14057080



Engine - aft of distributor 2M07158RV


Some numbers not too clear - hopefully got them right

Reason to gather this info is first to try and locate correct owners and shop manuals. Then for possible parts purchase, or to provide to a rebuilder (they want to know!)

 

[cloudix]

Did some testing.
Spinning engine with plugs out - no water from plug holes. However, boat has been out of water for a while and marina may have done same thing - some rust around plug holes.


Pressure tests look OK. Only thing I noticed, was that tester tip was "wet" with oil or water on cyl 4 after test. Others were dry(and sooted!)
Pressure tests from 1 to 4





I will next suck out the oil and check it out. Looks emulsified to me on dipstick.
I would like to do a pressure leak-down test, but I don't have a constant pressure tank (compressor is tankless). Don't mind buying the leak-down kit, but a not a compressor

 

[alldodge]

With compression numbers above 150 I would say the cylinders has some water or other liquid in them, either that or the gauge is off

Unable to tell from block codes, not able to find a listing
What year is the boat?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Welcome aboard

Agree with AD on your compression numbers

Volvo Penta is the only place to legally buy new factory manuals

Parts breakdown can be found at www.volvopentastore.com

Overheat would burn all the exhaust rubber bits and may have toasted the exhaust manifold or warped the head

Take the line from the transom shield off the raw water pump inlet. Take the line from the T-stat to exhaust manifold and tie it together with a T-fitting with a gauge and Schroeder valve. It should hold 15psi forever

 

[cloudix]

With compression numbers above 150 I would say the cylinders has some water or other liquid in them, either that or the gauge is off

Unable to tell from block codes, not able to find a listing
What year is the boat?

As posted above: "Boat number (Sunrider) ends in L798 which likely means this is a 98 model, built in 97. If engine is original, that would likely make it a 97."

The gauge is almost new. I checked results of some others with similar engine. This one had 170psi on all cylinders:

 

[Scott Danforth]

As posted above: "Boat number (Sunrider) ends in L798 which likely means this is a 98 model, built in 97. If engine is original, that would likely make it a 97."

The gauge is almost new. I checked results of some others with similar engine. This one had 170psi on all cylinders:

New motor spec is 150 psi

 

[cloudix]

Welcome aboard

Thanks!

Agree with AD on your compression numbers

See my reply to AD

Volvo Penta is the only place to legally buy new factory manuals

When I entered my numbers on their site they came up with nothing Maybe they don'y have manuals for old engines. I do have one now that seems close, but still not sure just which version of the 3.0 we have here!

Parts breakdown can be found at www.volvopentastore.com

I will check that out!

Overheat would burn all the exhaust rubber bits and may have toasted the exhaust manifold or warped the head

I am first going to inspect the interior of the cylinders with an endoscope. One thought based on past experience, is that water may have come back through the exhaust. Maybe the manifold to exhaust connection is corroded? At least something to check with too much dismantling?

Take the line from the transom shield off the raw water pump inlet. Take the line from the T-stat to exhaust manifold and tie it together with a T-fitting with a gauge and Schroeder valve. It should hold 15psi forever

Seems like a good idea! I was wondering how to pressure test cooling system on a boat! How do I pressurize the loop? air or water? Maybe I can fill then pressurize it with my mity-vac.

 

[cloudix]

New motor spec is 150 psi

Looking at the rust stains around the plugs, It is possible that when the marina first spun the engine, there may have been some water in the cylinders. And if it had been in the cooling cavities, it would likely contain rust. They may have then put some oil in the cylinders to stop rusting and that would of course help provide higher compression numbers.
All conjecture on my part. My snake camera won't fit through plug hole but I have a new one coming by Monday. Will see what inside of cylinders look like.

 

[cloudix]

Take the line from the transom shield off the raw water pump inlet. Take the line from the T-stat to exhaust manifold and tie it together with a T-fitting with a gauge and Schroeder valve. It should hold 15psi forever

Scott,
I haven't got to trying to pressure test the cooling system yet, but have been looking at how best to do it with this particular engine. This engine has a line from the thermostat housing back to the exhaust elbow. If I looped inlet water line back to line to manifold with tee for pressurizing, this other line would still be open.
Thinking that if I first just loop a line between the inlet from supply pump and line to manifold (no tee). Then make an adapter to pressurize through the smaller connection, that should work? Being a screwed fitting it might be easier to adapt.

 

[cloudix]

Talking to myself here But posting to at least document what I have done:. Today, so far, I pressure tested the cooling system. Method used as in previous post and attached pic. The block didn't hold pressure. I checked all connections with soapy water, found one tiny leak and re-tested. Slowed leak, but pressure still dropped from 20 to 10psi in 10-15min.
Next step is to inspect inside of cylinders (mainly because I can )
Then drain block and redo test again - more out of interest than anything.

 

[cloudix]

Starting to look like this boat and engine will need to find a new owner who is prepared to do a DIY engine rebuild or replacement.

Otherwise, what do owners do with these boats when it is no longer economical to repower?

 

[cloudix]

Talking to myself here But posting to at least document what I have done:. Today, so far, I pressure tested the cooling system. Method used as in previous post and attached pic. The block didn't hold pressure. I checked all connections with soapy water, found one tiny leak and re-tested. Slowed leak, but pressure still dropped from 20 to 10psi in 10-15min.
Next step is to inspect inside of cylinders (mainly because I can )
Then drain block and redo test again - more out of interest than anything.

Inspection of cylinders didn't show much. No water present and no obvious rusting.
Pressure test after draining worked betetr. Mainly because I found pressure pump was leaking slightly. But still, pressure dropped from 18-16 psi in about 20 min, Not surprising considering water had leaked into oil somewhere.
Test set-up I forgot in previous post:

 

[Scott Danforth]

The pic is of a 1984 or older V8

 

[cloudix]

The pic is of a 1984 or older V8

Maybe have another look!! Just the typical 4-cyl 3.0 used on V-Ps and Mercruisers.

 

[cloudix]

This guy has same 98 engine. Finally found that this V-P engine version is, according to video, the 3.0LGS. Outdrive markings are different, but our Sunrider does also have V-P outdrive. Outdrive controller in engine bay is marked as OMC cobra SX. I read that 1998 was last year of Volvo-OMC outdrive partnership.