Re: valve clearances
Nick<br />Very important you get it right. Too tight and valve stays open and you burn the valve, too loose and you loose all your power.<br /><br />Remember you are adjusting the hydrolic lifter for center. So with the cylinder on the compression stroke and near the top adjust for zero clearance then add the 3/4 to 1 turn what ever your engine calls for. When finding zero clearance remember the lifter spring not that strong and can be compressed with the rocker still pretty loose until you start to open the valve.<br /><br />Above assumes all your lifter are 100 percent good, but if you have a lifter that sticks a little and the spring does not push it all the way back up then above will leave the valve way too tight and maybe ever force it not to close.<br /><br />The way I adjust mine is messy and you need to be carefull but will nake sure not too tight. What I do is warn the engine up to normal then shut it off and pull the valve cover. Now I start the engine and turn each valve down slowly until It starts to miss then back out slowly untill runs good then back the 3/4 to 1 turn to center the lifter. Then go to the next valve until have done them all. Doing it this way will still center the lifter if the lifter is 100 percent good, but if the lifter's spring is not pushing it all the way up you will still end up with the valve adjusted correctly. If the lifter is sticking valve will still close and if it real bad may get some tappett noise but will not burn the valves. If you use this way important to do it safely and not drop anything in the engine. Also make sure not low on oil. When done I alway do a compression check. Also adjust slowly to allow oil time to leave or fill the lifter as you turn it.<br />Good luck hope this makes sense to you. If you have clean oil and new lifter then should be able to do it either way with the same results.