Re: used lower unit 1974 Evinrude V4, how to check?
Clockwise, looking down from the top, is the 'right' direction. The driveshaft of a lower unit with a new impeller is impossible to turn with your bare hands, so the fact that this one is tough to turn is good. <br /><br />You can shift the hydro-assist mechanical (1973-77) V4 lower units without the pump, but it takes a REAL stout pull on some of them, and that's not a negative sign. It's easy if you're doing it with the leverage provided by the remote control & linkages, but can be tough if your just push/pulling the end of the shift rod.<br /><br />I've had some problems with pitted, salt-water corroded driveshafts on these (though they're way better than the older non-stainless Mercs). If it's been in salt, look carefully here. These can make it tough have a good surface for the seals under the water pump. <br /><br />I also have had a run of leaking shiftshaft seals. This is by far the easiest seal to change out, so not really a problem. Post back if you have trouble with that donut.<br /><br />If you drain the fluid (takes a couple hours for it all to drip out), then remove the impeller, you should be able to spin the LU freely. If the bearings or gearset is getting noisy, you'll hear it. <br /><br />For me anyway, a running water test is the only way to really verify that the LU is leak-free. Pressure testing is a great way to find where leaks are, and worth doing as a test anyway, but I've had a couple LUs that did fine on pressure tests but leaked in use. I'm now letting the pressure sit for 30 minutes to overnight - seems necessary to pick up slow propshaft seal leaks when there's still some LU fluid around.<br /><br />Only other non-obvious thing I can think of is to use some gasket sealant on the LU/midsection mating surfaces. Leaks here are usually just cosmetic, but if bad enough the exhaust housing water level can get pretty low.