Re: Two quick questions
Difficulty on a scale of 1 to 10 is about 6-7 because you must support the engine. Does it need to be done? It is not an absolute or the engine will crash, but with the broken motor mount, the engine will shift on turns and will hit the rear shroud on deceleration. It is something you should plan on doing.
NOW: A new motor mount costs around 100 bucks and occasionally you can find a used one on ebay for less. However, you can also repair your existing mount and make it not only better than new but probably never fail again.
To remove the motor mount, you first remove the rear shroud (DUH). Next, remove the four bolts on the lower kingpin cap and pull off the cap. NOW comes the hard part. You must remove the two 9/16 head bolts (some engines have 3/4) under the upper cowling. These hold the upper motor mounts. You then lift and tilt the whole engine to give room to access the rear lower motor mount bolts. Remove two on one side and loosen two on the other then slide out the mount. Careful: Some of these will be corroded badly and may snap on you. That's why I charge 50 bucks plus your old one to replace a lower mount.
Now take the two pieces or three if the rubber biscuit is disconnected from both aluminum plates and buff them until clean and rough. Glue with a really good industrial strength rubber cement and be careful with the alignment or you will not be able to get it back in. After the glue has set, drill two 1/4 inch holes or metric equivalent all the way through both aluminum plates. Countersink the thick plate for an appropriate flat head bolt and leave about 1/8 inch recess for rubber compression. Tap both holes for 5/16 and insert the bolts. Peen them where they exit the thin plate and grind off any excess until flush with the plate. Voila' Brand new motor mount.
Actual motor mount photos to follow as soon as I find them