Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

[The Famous Grouse]

Folks, I'm about to put my boat in dry-stack storage for the summer instead of storing it in my driveway. Before I do so, I'd like to give it a proper detailing job including buffing and waxing.

Boat and overall condition:
My boat is a fiberglass 1997 Wellcraft Eclipse 22 foot cuddy. Color is white. I've owned this boat for 3 years and it's been waxed every year, but never polished/buffed/whatever. The overall condition is good, but I would say it is lightly oxidized and even when I wax it, it does not really have the shine I would expect. To me that says the gelcoat is dull or oxidized and needs a polish.

By the way, I have both an electric random orbit car buffer/polisher and a 7 inch rotary variable speed polisher.

My question: What are the steps I should follow to get the shine back? What I need is the overall process and the related tools and products.

I've found LOTS of YouTube videos, but many tend to show the use of just one step and product in the overall process and I think some terms are used interchangeably. I'm confused, for example, as to when do you use a "rubbing" compound vs a "buffing" compound vs a "polishing" compound and how do I apply them?

BTW, I would prefer to use common products that are available from retailers that would probably be local and not exotic professional stuff that would have to be mail-ordered.

With cars I understand the process and what product to use for which paint condition. With fiberglass, I'm totally in the dark as to what the order of operations is.

Many thanks.

Grouse

 

[captain zac]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

1. http://www.woody-wax.com/fiberglass-...d-deck-wax.php
This will help you with your non skid

Harry

This will help with the buffer

Just a tip on handling a buffer
The pad should be a little larger than the spindle makes the buffer more forgiving ( i like the lock loop style)
This is very important
never press down on the buffer just let the pad FLOAT on the BOAT
never stay in one place keep the buffer moving
never let the compound get dry

On buffers
try to get a varible speed (more for giving you can slow it down and work at your own pace)
and all the top brands are good I just prefer an air buffer sander its lighter

Harry

IMO

This might help with the process
I use nothing but 3m products and try to stick with the industrial line (more $ though)

If I were buffing your hull I would use the least aggressive compound that addresses the majority of the boat
I would do the whole boat and then go back and address the worst spots

Example

If you decide that you can use a light compound on the majority of the boat and get the results that you wish then you might try a heavy compound on the spots that did not get the results that you desire. Or you might have to go to wet sanding only someone that is looking at the boat in person can tell. I always prefer going from least aggressive to most aggressive abrasive.
Just remember that when you go back and do the problem spots that you have to feather out that spot blending it to the rest of the hull. To do a spot that might be 6 inches you might have to work an area of about 2 ft.
Remember that the whole buffing process has to be followed. All the steps have to be followed through to the final wax. How many steps just depend on where you start.
Here are the steps

Acetone wipe down - in my opinion always needed

Wet sand ( maybe 600 grit 1000, 1500, 2000) if needed
Wash down after
Heavy Compound - if needed
light compound - if needed
3m finishing compound - in my opinion always needed
3m machine finishing compound - in my opinion always needed
Acetone wipe down - in my opinion always needed
wash down get all dirt off the hull wax just magnifies dirt
3m wax - in my opinion always needed

What ever you decide to do be sure and always try to take as little of the gel coat off as possible

Please take note this only the way that I do it and it might not be for you
I am sure that there are many other acceptable methods

http://www.boatsupplies.co.uk/3m_pro...e/default.aspx

Take a look at this also it might help

 

[The Famous Grouse]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

Appreciate the reply Zac and the details, Zac.

Luckily, I have a variable speed buffer, so I'm all set in that regard. My main concern was that there are so many products for marine use. It's confusing as to what product to start with and then the order in which additional products can/must be used.

So here's my game plan for my boat. And I invite any comments.

Given that I DO NOT believe my boat qualifies as "heavily oxidized", I'm going to start with a relatively mild cleaner/wax combo. Here are the steps as I understand them..

1. Thorough pressure wash (using mild wash tip) and then a hand wash with a soft brush using a strong vehicle soap. I have a stiffer brush that I use just for the grip textured areas as well. I also use SoftScrub on any tough stains and on the grip textured surfaces (and I understand these are not to be buffed or waxed).

2. For the first go-around, I'm going to try a mild polishing compound / wax combo like 3Ms One-Step Cleaner. According to 3Ms info, this is the lightest compound / least aggressive. I'll see what results I get from that before I step up to more aggressive products.

I haven't read the fulll directions, but I belive this type of compound goes on with a lambswool buffer pad using a lower buffer speed of 800-1000 RPM. Is that about right?

Grouse

 

[Slide]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

Don't get suckered into the "one-step" products. Jack of all trades, master of none - you will find you'll need to reapply your wax halfway through the season, and you won't get great results for your polish work.

Since it sounds like your hull is not heavily oxidized/damaged, you will not need to compound. "Compound" refers to the step after wet sanding that uses a very aggressive substance to pull out significant damage. What you want is actual gelcoat polish (DON'T use automotive products; gelcoat behaves differently from car paint). I use Meguiars #45. You will want to use a wool pad; do some test areas and adjust your buffer speed until you find what works for your paint. Every job is a little different. Before you polish, wash thoroughly with Dawn or another decently aggressive soap to pull out lingering dirt and strip any leftover wax.

After you have polished, then go for the wax. Collinite 845 is an excellent product that is extremely durable and is also highly affordable.

In a nutshell:

1) Wash with dawn
2) Polish
3) Wash
4) Wax
5) Admire

 

[The Famous Grouse]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

OK, excellent advice Slide. Very helpful to know the difference between "compound" and "polish".

Questions:

1. Where do you find the McGuiar's #45?

2. Anything against McGuiar's waxes like the Preimum Marine Wax?

Thanks.

Grouse

 

[Slide]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

I know you want to avoid online shopping but that'll be the best place to find good products unless your local marina has a really great selection. I got the #45 from Autogeek online, ~$17 for a bottle. Nothing against any of Meguiars products, you can't go wrong with them - I prefer the Collinite because it's extremely versatile (can use on auto paint, chrome, glass, ANYTHING) and is really easy to apply, plus it's only $18 and Advance carries it in some stores.

 

[captain zac]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

IMO

If you look at the info I wrote
Wash down with soap and water
wipe down with acetone
I would start with light compound (foam pad)
3m finshing compound (polish) gets the swirls out (foam pad
3m machine compound (polish) gets all the swirls out (foam pad)
wipe down with dry clean towel
3m wax (wipe it on do not put it on in a circular motion)
tooth brush to remove wax from hard to get spots

 

[Slide]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

IMO

If you look at the info I wrote
Wash down with soap and water
wipe down with acetone
I would start with light compound (foam pad)
3m finshing compound (polish) gets the swirls out (foam pad
3m machine compound (polish) gets all the swirls out (foam pad)
wipe down with dry clean towel
3m wax (wipe it on do not put it on in a circular motion)
tooth brush to remove wax from hard to get spots

It'll definitely work, but I question the need for so many polish procedures - seems like overkill to me. If his paint is in really awful shape, yeah, but for something lightly oxidized or just a little old/faded, one meticulous polish job with a good product will do the job just fine.

 

[captain zac]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

Its not a matter of how bad the oxidation is
Its where you need to start the removal
No matter where your starting point is you need to follow the process
When you wax you are magnifying what is underneath the wax
If swirls are there then the wax will make them more noticeable
The more dirt and swirls that you remove the better the end result

 

[calvinator]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

Check into Aqua-Buff. Instructions on their web site. Applied with a 2500RPM polisher.

Use the 1000 product and wool pad for the compounding part.
Use the 2000 product and foam polishing pad for polishing.
Wax.
That's it.

It is inexpensive and brought my Wellcraft back. I really like that it is water based so clean up is easy.

When I bought it and hauled it out:

Aqua-buffed. I did repaint the red stripe and the checkered flag is a vinyl graphic. But, my gelcoat SHINES ! ! !

 

[Thalasso]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

Appreciate the reply Zac and the details, Zac.

Luckily, I have a variable speed buffer, so I'm all set in that regard. My main concern was that there are so many products for marine use. It's confusing as to what product to start with and then the order in which additional products can/must be used.

So here's my game plan for my boat. And I invite any comments.

Given that I DO NOT believe my boat qualifies as "heavily oxidized", I'm going to start with a relatively mild cleaner/wax combo. Here are the steps as I understand them..

1. Thorough pressure wash (using mild wash tip) and then a hand wash with a soft brush using a strong vehicle soap. I have a stiffer brush that I use just for the grip textured areas as well. I also use SoftScrub on any tough stains and on the grip textured surfaces (and I understand these are not to be buffed or waxed).

2. For the first go-around, I'm going to try a mild polishing compound / wax combo like 3Ms One-Step Cleaner. According to 3Ms info, this is the lightest compound / least aggressive. I'll see what results I get from that before I step up to more aggressive products.

I haven't read the fulll directions, but I belive this type of compound goes on with a lambswool buffer pad using a lower buffer speed of 800-1000 RPM. Is that about right?

Grouse

Use Dawn dish soap. That will clean everything off. Use a straight buffing compound of your choice ( no cleaner/wax) product. remember, what ever your shine is before you polish, that is what it is going to be.Everybody has there preferance of what to use. Polish and wax is just a protectant. Use a wool pad for removal of oxidation. Buff then polish and then wax.Slide is right on with his process. I use Duragloss compound and Duragloss Polish then Collinite 845. Shines like a new baby's butt. Put the Collinite in warm water for a few minutes before using. It makes it more of a liquid then a paste/gel

 

[Sunsetrider]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

Aqua-buffed. I did repaint the red stripe and the checkered flag is a vinyl graphic. But, my gelcoat SHINES ! ! !

Cal - what did you paint the red stripe with? I couldn't get my blue stripe to shine like the rest of the gelcoat.

 

[calvinator]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

Cal - what did you paint the red stripe with? I couldn't get my blue stripe to shine like the rest of the gelcoat.

I was going to use Corvette red and clear coat. But I was looking at $160 in paint ! So I spent $35 and got a quart of Rustoleum marine primer and topside paint. Sprayed it on. Looks great and is very shiny.

 

[captain zac]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

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Restoring the Shine to Fiberglass
by Don Casey

The outer surface of a fiberglass boat is normally a special resin called gelcoat. Gelcoat has little structural value-the underlying laminates of resin-saturated glass fabric provide that-but gelcoat protects the hull and gives it its color and shine.

When the gelcoat was originally sprayed into the hull mold, it-like any gel-took on the shape and texture of the mold surface. The ultra high gloss most new boats exhibit is due entirely to the highly polished, mirror-like surface of the mold used in the original construction of the boat.

Time and exposure eventually erode the relatively soft surface of gelcoat, leaving it dull and chalky. Fortunately, the gloss usually can be restored.

Cleaning
The first step in restoring the gloss to dull gelcoat is always a thorough cleaning. Add a cup of detergent to a gallon of water-warm water is better-and use a sponge to wash the surface with this solution. Be sure to protect your hands with rubber gloves.

If mildew is present, add a cup of household bleach to your cleaning solution. Difficult stains like fish blood and waterline scum may require the direct application of a concentrated cleaner formulated for fiberglass. Rinse the clean surface thoroughly and let it dry.

Degreasing
For dependable results from wax or polish, the gelcoat surface must be completely free of oil and grease. Detergents often fail to fully remove these contaminants from porous gelcoat. Wipe the entire surface with a rag soaked in MEK (preferred) or acetone, turning the rag often and replacing it when you run out of clean areas. Again, protect your skin with thick rubber gloves.

Wax
Keeping gelcoat coated with wax-starting when the boat is new-is the best way to prolong its life. Regularly waxed gelcoat can retain its gloss for 15 years or more. The real purpose of a coat of wax is to protect, but wax also has restorative properties if the gelcoat is not too badly weathered.

Application instructions vary among brands, but in general you apply the wax with a cloth or foam pad using a circular motion. Let the wax dry to a haze, then buff away the excess with a soft cloth, such as an old bath towel. The remaining wax fills microscopic pitting in the gelcoat and provides a new, smooth, reflective surface.

Polishing
Polish is not a coating, but rather an abrasive-like extremely fine sandpaper. Polishing removes the pitted surface rather than coating it. Use a soft cloth to apply polish to a small area at a time, rubbing with a circular motion until the surface becomes glassy. After polishing, you should apply a coat of wax to protect the surface and improve the gloss. Some polish products include wax in their formulations.

Using Rubbing Compound
If the gelcoat is weathered so badly that polish fails to restore its shine, you will need the stronger abrasives rubbing compound contains. Wax on the surface can cause the compound to cut unevenly, so first remove all wax by "sweeping" the surface in one direction-not back and forth-with rags saturated with dewax solvent or toluene.

Select a rubbing compound formulated for fiberglass and use it exactly like polish, rubbing it with a circular motion until the surface turns glassy. The gelcoat on your boat is about 10 times as thick as the paint on your car, so compound shouldn't cut all the way through it as long as you are careful not to rub in one place too long. If the gelcoat starts to look transparent, stop.

After the surface has been compounded, polish it, then coat it with wax and buff it. Providing the gelcoat has an adequate thickness-the boat might have been compounded previously-this process will restore the shine to fiberglass in almost any condition.

Do You Need an Electric Buffer?
You can wax, polish, and compound by hand, but on anything but the smallest boat, your arm is going to get very tired. An electric buffer takes much of the work out of keeping a boat shining and is less expensive-and less painful-than elbow replacement.

Electric buffers operate at relatively slow speeds, so don't try to "make do" with a polishing bonnet fitted to a disk sander or a sanding pad chucked into a drill. You will either ruin the surface or ruin the tool. A buffer with an orbital motion will leave fewer swirl marks.

Restorer
In recent years a number of products have come on the market that claim to restore the surface of the gelcoat. Restorer formulations renew the gloss in essentially the same way as wax-by providing a new smooth surface-but without the need for buffing. Results can be dramatic, but because restorers are a plastic (acrylic) coating-similar to urethane varnish-they can wear off, flake off, and occasionally discolor. Restorer kits typically include a prep wash and sometimes a polish in addition to the restorer. A specialized stripper-for removing old sealer-is also necessary.

There are variations in the recommended application, but in general it is the same as already described-clean, polish, and coat. The acrylic sealer is usually water-thin, so applying it to the hull is much easier than, say, pastewax. And it dries to hard film, so no buffing is needed. However, you do have to apply several coats-five is typical-to get a good shine. If the product you have selected doesn't include an applicator, use a sponge or a soft cloth to wipe the sealer onto the gelcoat. Drying times are short, so subsequent coats can generally be applied almost immediately.

A multicoat application can restore the shine to weathered gelcoat for up to a year, but when it is time to renew it, you will need to remove the old sealer using the special stripper supplied in the kit (or available separately). Apply five fresh coats of sealer and your boat should shine for another year.

 

[BlkY2k]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

Degreasing
For dependable results from wax or polish, the gelcoat surface must be completely free of oil and grease. Detergents often fail to fully remove these contaminants from porous gelcoat. Wipe the entire surface with a rag soaked in MEK (preferred) or acetone, turning the rag often and replacing it when you run out of clean areas. Again, protect your skin with thick rubber gloves.

If you use mek be very careful, wear eye protection and cover your skin as well as good rubber gloves. It will burn you in a heart beat.

 

[gtochris]

Re: Tutorials / step-by-step for buffing a boat.

Having had my boat for a few years and considering it is 15 now, we tried a multitude of things but have finally wet-sanded the entire thing, then compounded and polished followed up by wax. It was the necessary to get rid of the "dead skin". No one product, (even the oxidation remover) could do. Alot of products layor and are fillers so it looks good, but as they wear down you get back to that same ugly dull surface.