Pigeonroost Slim
Cadet
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2009
- Messages
- 10
My non mechanic son has picked-up an old aluminium approx 14' Sprots Craft boat with Evenrude #E02472, model 40373D Lark V motor. The boat, trailer, and motor have been in an old storage building for many years. I am a decent shade tree mechanic (small engines, diesel, autos, motorcycles), but only very limited outboard experience. We realize the rule; "First, do no harm!" applies here.
We fogged the cylinders through the spark plug ports. The engine turned easily by hand starter. We noted a no spark condition and pretty much expected that. We removed and cleaned the carb; but it was remarkably clean already, except the float valve was stuck in the closed postion. We replaced the fuel lines. We removed the fly wheel to find the coils had pretty much turned to dust, but the points looked brand new -- no pitting or wear. The woodruff fly wheel key was sharply creased and cracked! We purchased a new woodruff that was slightly too tall and worked it down to size on a flat file We replaced the coils and condensors. We made a crude check for compression (thumb in plug holes -- seems strong -- yeah, yeah, I know and we will).
We had no idea of how the electrics were originally set-up. The boat dash has this multiple pole rotary switch with heavy gague connecters, but the wiring was gone to copper thieves. We fashioned a throttle linkage for the cable to hook the throttle. We have no concept as to how the shifter worked, but putting power to one of the shifter wires on the engine seems to put it in gear and after removing power it seems to be in neutral. Same for other wire. The old gear lube was pretty funky, but minimal water in it. We used EP 80W-90 Mobil to refill for the time being We added an ignition solenoid and key switch and battery. With 16:1 oil rich mix we cranked her up and she idled right along in a water filled garbage can. Kinda rough, but impressive. We had to stay conservative in the throttle as the water can is just too small and exhaust and water spray was going every where.
It sure would be good to have a service manual. I found this forum and read what I could find. We need to replace impeller, check the shear pin. What else needs routine replacement?
Is there a HOW TO regarding building a shifter box with buttons for the selectric shift?
The prop is dinged moderately on one blade, looks like a trailering accident, can I still get a prop and shear pins? Or, is the metal malleable enough to work back into shape?
Appreciate any helpful advice you can offer.
prs
We fogged the cylinders through the spark plug ports. The engine turned easily by hand starter. We noted a no spark condition and pretty much expected that. We removed and cleaned the carb; but it was remarkably clean already, except the float valve was stuck in the closed postion. We replaced the fuel lines. We removed the fly wheel to find the coils had pretty much turned to dust, but the points looked brand new -- no pitting or wear. The woodruff fly wheel key was sharply creased and cracked! We purchased a new woodruff that was slightly too tall and worked it down to size on a flat file We replaced the coils and condensors. We made a crude check for compression (thumb in plug holes -- seems strong -- yeah, yeah, I know and we will).
We had no idea of how the electrics were originally set-up. The boat dash has this multiple pole rotary switch with heavy gague connecters, but the wiring was gone to copper thieves. We fashioned a throttle linkage for the cable to hook the throttle. We have no concept as to how the shifter worked, but putting power to one of the shifter wires on the engine seems to put it in gear and after removing power it seems to be in neutral. Same for other wire. The old gear lube was pretty funky, but minimal water in it. We used EP 80W-90 Mobil to refill for the time being We added an ignition solenoid and key switch and battery. With 16:1 oil rich mix we cranked her up and she idled right along in a water filled garbage can. Kinda rough, but impressive. We had to stay conservative in the throttle as the water can is just too small and exhaust and water spray was going every where.
It sure would be good to have a service manual. I found this forum and read what I could find. We need to replace impeller, check the shear pin. What else needs routine replacement?
Is there a HOW TO regarding building a shifter box with buttons for the selectric shift?
The prop is dinged moderately on one blade, looks like a trailering accident, can I still get a prop and shear pins? Or, is the metal malleable enough to work back into shape?
Appreciate any helpful advice you can offer.
prs