Trying to change the water pump on a long shaft 6hp Johnson sail master

[Feenix]

Having trouble removing the lower end unit on my long shaft motor. When I You Tubed the procedure it was on a regular shaft johnson and once you cracked the lower unit bolts there was a flat head screw in side the housing to disconnect the forward reverse linkage. On the long shaft motor it doesn't look like that linkage disconnect screw is located in the same place. Just trying to replace the impeller in the water pump... Can anyone help me?

 

[flyingscott]

If you have the longer shaft With The 5" extension you may need to remove the upper bolts on the 5" extension. On some motors you need to completely remove the extension from the lower for the water pump change.

 

[boobie]

Got a model # ????

 

[BROUSSARD2]

Need the year and model number to help.

 

[BROUSSARD2]

found this online. might help. If the motor has been used in saltwater to any degree, I will guarantee that at least a few of the bolts will be seized in and will be twisted off. I will cover this in the troubleshooting section however. Have the motor mounted either on the transom of the boat, on a motor stand or saw horses. It also will make a slight difference in the procedure whether the motor is a long shaft or not. There are 6 stainless, 1/4” bolts with 3/8” heads that come in from the bottom and are bolted up into the exhaust housing assembly. If it is a short shaft, they are the only ones there. If however it happens to be a longshaft, there is a 5” extension, or if a Sailmaster a 10" extra long extension between the lower unit and this housing. On these, then remove the upper 6 bolts for access to the shift linkage coupler. The lower 6 bolts attach this extension to the lower unit which would need to also be removed to access the water pump.

When you get these 6 bolts removed, the gear case unit should drop down about 1/2”. If it does not you may have to tap it with a plastic mallet. Shift the gearshift into reverse to pull the lower shifting rod up allowing access to the connector retainer bolts now visible by the blue arrow in the photo below. When the lower unit does slide down, there will be, inside the housing in the front right hand side, a connector that is a strap with 2, ¼” tapped holes top and bottom. Shift the gearshift into forward, allowing the gearcase to drop down enough to access the connector bolts. In these holes are 2 bolts that are screwed in sideways connecting the upper and lower shifting rods. These bolts go in a threaded hole in the connector, which has a vertical groove for the shifting rods, and the bolts go into the connector with the rods which have a groove that the bolts slide into it hold the rods in place. Remove only the top screw. It has a 3/8" hex head and also a screwdriver slot. If you need to replace it, get a stainless steel 1/4" X 28TPI (National Fine) 1/2" long and hacksaw a screwdriver slot in the head. However, make it wide enough to be able to use a decent sizes screwdriver blade on. Once this bolt is removed the gearcase unit can be moved downward and off the midsection exhaust housing.

 

[racerone]

The model # needs to be posted !

 

[Vic.S]

Having trouble removing the lower end unit on my long shaft motor. When I You Tubed the procedure it was on a regular shaft johnson and once you cracked the lower unit bolts there was a flat head screw in side the housing to disconnect the forward reverse linkage. On the long shaft motor it doesn't look like that linkage disconnect screw is located in the same place. Just trying to replace the impeller in the water pump... Can anyone help me?

Whether or not there is a clamp joining two parts of the shift rod depends on the year. Not on the shaft length. Post the model number!

The shift rod in my 1984 model is in one piece and comes away with the lower unit..
Because the drive shaft runs in a bearing bush in the 5" extension I have to remove the lower unit c/w extension piece, clean the shaft then remove the extension to access the water pump.

I refit the extension to the leg, rather than to the gear case, when rebuilding. That way I can see the water tube fit into the pump housing

While the lower unit is off check that you can get a good water flow up the water tube and through the power head. The grommet at the top of the tube can get squashed over the top of the tube by corrosion , in some models, cutting off the water flow .
Its a power head off job to get at the grommet . PITA that grommet !

You should find a manual that covers your engine at http://162.144.28.33/lib/library.html

Also refer to the official parts diagrams at http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E...f-8708190477e1. They are not a substitute for a manual but they sure do help

You cannot rely on YouTube videos that may or may not apply to your engine ... or often on their content

 

[Feenix]

There was a warranty card that said the date of purchase was 4/10/89 and the model number is J6SLCOB serial number is B100369 not sure if that purchase date is the actual year of the motor . Thank you guys for all the help it is much appreciated. I live 100 miles from any kind of marine mechanic . If this information will help you help me I'd like to get this impeller replaced soon so I can fish!

 

[racerone]

Just 3 bolts and the lower unit comes off.--One on the front ande 2 side by each.----Shift rod slides out and no bolts on the shift rod.

 

[jbuote]

That model makes it a 1985 engine.
Here's how it breaks down if it's helpful..

J - Johnson
6 - Horsepower
S - Sail - Special Styling
L - 20" Long (length)
C - 8
O - 5
B - Model run or suffix (means nothing outside Mfg. really..)

 

[Vic.S]

There was a warranty card that said the date of purchase was 4/10/89 and the model number is J6SLCOB serial number is B100369 not sure if that purchase date is the actual year of the motor . Thank you guys for all the help it is much appreciated. I live 100 miles from any kind of marine mechanic . If this information will help you help me I'd like to get this impeller replaced soon so I can fish!

That is the model number for a 1985 model ( CO are the date letters for 85 )
It is almost exactly the same as my 84 model
I wonder where it was for 4 years ? Perhaps you have misread the purchase date

If it was a 1989 model the number would be J6SLCEC

 

[Feenix]

There was a warranty card that said the date of purchase was 4/10/89 and the model number is J6SLCOB serial number is B100369 not sure if that purchase date is the actual year of the motor . Thank you guys for all the help it is much appreciated. I live 100 miles from any kind of marine mechanic . If this information will help you help me I'd like to get this impeller replaced soon so I can fish!

 

[Feenix]

Thanks for the help guys! All your input was very useful!

 

[Vic.S]

Thanks for the help guys! All your input was very useful!

When you buy parts always quote the model number

Probably worth ordering the gaskets that go either side of the pump base plate at the same time as the impeller,

Watch out for the impeller drive key when you take the old impeller off the shaft.

Check that pesky grommet at the top of the water tube by pushing a stout wire up the tube. It should hit something solid eventually. If you find anything squidgy at the top it's the grommet and it needs replacing , but with luck it'll be OK in a freshwater motor. Mines on salt water

When you reassemble lightly grease the drive shaft splines. It'll make it easier to dismantle next time.