Trim pump hoses replaced

[JimJames63]

Older Larson Hampton 220, Trim was working fine, then it wasn't. Added fluid and worked then didn't saw trim fluid in the bilge. Inspected pump and reservoir and all looked good. Figured one of the hoses burst. Ordered replacements, installed today. One of the hoses burst, so seems that was the issue. After some cussing trying to get the manifold thing attached but got it. Topped off reservoir and cycled trim. Pump runs hear what I think is air, gurgling. Cycled up and down a dozen times. Not moving properly yet. Pump runs in both directions but then will stop.

I didn't bleed the lines cause read somewhere it self bleeds. Also see where others remove the cylinders and bleed. Advise? Do I just keep cycling or should I remove the cylinders and bleed? The drive is down now. Can I just remove the cylinders, unscrew the stainless lines and trim up and down to bleed? How much pressure is on the lines? do I need to be concerned unscrewing or it's not a big deal?

 

[alldodge]

When cycling did you make sure the reservoir never went low?

If not, add oil and do more cycling, it should bleed on it's own and should not take that many times

 

[JimJames63]

When cycling did you make sure the reservoir never went low?

If not, add oil and do more cycling, it should bleed on it's own and should not take that many times

Thanks, yes made sure the reservoir didn't go low. I'll try again tomorrow. Just seemed weird, like the pump runs in either direction, sounds normal then will sound weird, like a gurgling, figure that's air. but then it will stop and I'm not at a limit. So wondering if there's some kind of air detect or something that stops the pump if there is too much air? I kept checking the level, initally it dropped some but far from empty, topped it off and figured it was the bleeding happening. I just didn't want to cycle too many times if I was running the risk of damaging the pump or something.

 

[alldodge]

Trailer button to full up

 

[Bt Doctur]

fill res, run pump down, check oil level, refill, run pump up, check oil, refill.,run pump down check oil level ,run pump up, check oil level
Now it should be fine

 

[JimJames63]

I'm back. First weekend out seemed to be working but by the end of the day the motor wouldn't go up. No sign of leakage. Switch works fine. Pump runs in both directions but no movement. Have tried using google but all the replies involve either bad solenoids or frozen cylinders. I have neither. I can move the outdrive by hand up and down so it's not frozen. That also seems to me to indicate theirs no hydraulic fluid in the rams. There's fluid in the reservoir, none in the bilge and no sign of a leak. How do I tell if the pump is bad? it runs but guessing it's not pumping. Before I pull and buy a new unit want to make sure I'm not over looking something.

 

[alldodge]

I can move the outdrive by hand up and down so it's not frozen. That also seems to me to indicate theirs no hydraulic fluid in the rams.

Any hydraulic cylinder should never be able to be moved by hand. Being able to do so means the cylinders internal seals are shot, or the pump valving is shot

 

[ROY WILLIAMS]

I'm back. First weekend out seemed to be working but by the end of the day the motor wouldn't go up. No sign of leakage. Switch works fine. Pump runs in both directions but no movement. Have tried using google but all the replies involve either bad solenoids or frozen cylinders. I have neither. I can move the outdrive by hand up and down so it's not frozen. That also seems to me to indicate theirs no hydraulic fluid in the rams. There's fluid in the reservoir, none in the bilge and no sign of a leak. How do I tell if the pump is bad? it runs but guessing it's not pumping. Before I pull and buy a new unit want to make sure I'm not over looking something.

I was the trim cyl of the no electrical motor pump ..I was taking it out of the electrical motor .. then did the armature brushes .. then the rusted is the brush holder .. cleaned it did the movement of the brush... then the outdrive up down good ..
I did the trim switch of the voltmeter VOM ..#1.....then #2 take out the electrical motor ..

 

[04fxdwgi25]

^^^^ Have absolutely no idea what is being said in that post.

 

[JimJames63]

Any hydraulic cylinder should never be able to be moved by hand. Being able to do so means the cylinders internal seals are shot, or the pump valving is shot

Thank you, guessing it's he pump but wanted some type of guidance. How do I check the cylinders? they're easier to get at, check them first then the pump removal.

 

[ROY WILLIAMS]

^^^^ Have absolutely no idea what is being said in that post.

I was the trim cylinders not working , then the electronic motor pump is no working ..fixed it of those armature brushes .

 

[04fxdwgi25]

Thank you, guessing it's he pump but wanted some type of guidance. How do I check the cylinders? they're easier to get at, check them first then the pump removal.

Having no idea what drive you have, all I can suggest is the manual. If you specify what drive you have, then possibly some solid info, instead os guessing, would come forth. Possibly even a copy of the appropriate manual would be available.

PS: The service manual for the drive unit has all kinds of info for the trim / tilt system.

 

[alldodge]

Need a manual
Could put a 3000 psi gauges Teed in line with the cylinder and see what kind of pressures your seeing

 

[JimJames63]

Thanks guys, serial number search says it's a bravo 1 drive. Found several PDF manuals on line, looking now to decide which to buy. Appreciate the help.

 

[04fxdwgi25]

Duplicate deleted

 

[04fxdwgi25]

Thanks guys, serial number search says it's a bravo 1 drive. Found several PDF manuals on line, looking now to decide which to buy. Appreciate the help.

MOD EDIT: Use PM's for this stuff