Trim cylinder rebuild - Seized inner pin (closest to transom)

[GTGeek88]

I've done a trim cylinder rebuild on my Volvo-Penta SX outdrive (see "Trim cylinder rebuild - Stripped threads on fluid line connection"). I never could get the inner pin closest to the transom removed, so I left the cylinder on the outdrive and pulled the piston, did the "rebuild" (replaced all the sealant rings), got the piston re-inserted, and went to connect the fluid lines. That's when I managed to strip the threads a bit on the lower port (hence my other thread). Now to repair them (hopefully) I need to get that cylinder off. I used penetrating oil and some pressure on that inner pin originally. No go. Now I'm thinking I'd better use the heat. I've got a heat gun, but it only has two settings: 700 or 1100 degrees. I'm thinking even 700 degrees is too hot. Could hit the flash point of the power trim fluid. Could be dangerous to the fiberglass. Could take paint off various parts. What would be a max temp? 200 degrees maybe? Would a hair dryer be enough or do I need a heat gun with a wider temperature range? Thanks.

Edit: Added the picture. I couldn't push the pin through nor could I pull the cylinder off. Maybe a crowbar would do the job.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I might be thinking a simple gear puller.

 

[GTGeek88]

Interesting. But you mean to pull the cylinder off the pin, right? Using it for pulling the pin would not seem to be possible.

 

[Davetowz]

I use oxy acetylene to heat to beat corrosion. BFH to beat it out with correct size punch, then look after disassembly to decide if need to ream oversize, use a bushing and new pin, or can old pin be cleaned up.

 

[alldodge]

Interesting. But you mean to pull the cylinder off the pin, right? Using it for pulling the pin would not seem to be possible.

Yes

 

[GTGeek88]

I use oxy acetylene to heat to beat corrosion. BFH to beat it out with correct size punch, then look after disassembly to decide if need to ream oversize, use a bushing and new pin, or can old pin be cleaned up.

Sorry, you're talking code. Oxy acetylene makes me think flame. I'd like to avoid flame. Not sure what BFH is. I'm not sure any reaming is going to happen. Hopefully just clean up the old pin, properly grease it, then reinstall.

 

[alldodge]

Big F Hammer
I like ricks method. Tighten it it up and if it doesn't start sliding off, smack the end of the tool with a hammer, not a BFH, regular size. The shock most times makes it break free

 

[GTGeek88]

Big F Hammer
I like ricks method. Tighten it it up and if it doesn't start sliding off, smack the end of the tool with a hammer, not a BFH, regular size. The shock most times makes it break free

Ah, see, I was thinking too technical. Big Effing Hammer. One of the universal tools. Maybe the universal tool.
I'm going to try the gear puller thing for sure. Maybe a little help via crowbar and/or BFH.

 

[GTGeek88]

I like ricks method.

No answers about the heat temp, unfortunately. 700 degrees does seem really hot. Of course, I should be able to bring that down simply by not putting the air flow right up to the target. Back it off and I should get something less. However, what would be appropriate? The "oxy acetylene" answer addressed the heat, but not really the temp (and I'm still waiting to see if he was literally talking about Mr. Blue Torch). Hey, wait, what about the kitchen torch we use to make the crème brûlée?

 

[DeepCMark58A]

Sure that heat gun isn't degrees but watts?

 

[GTGeek88]

Sure that heat gun isn't degrees but watts?

Well, I was wrong about one thing. It's 750 degrees or 1100 degrees. 1200 watts. Damn that's hot. Don't get your fingers in the way! Wagner Furno 300.

 

[alldodge]

I don't like high heat around the transom. It has a rubber seal between assy and transom. Then you have the fiberglass and Gel coat

 

[GTGeek88]

I don't like high heat around the transom. It has a rubber seal between assy and transom. Then you have the fiberglass and Gel coat

Yeah, I was thinking of the fiberglass and the flash point of the trim fluid. Didn't think about any gel coat (I'm not sure that applies to my boat) or the transom seal. So do you have any suggestions about how to apply the heat and maybe an upper temp limit. And I've just suddenly remembered a guy who said he did it via a 6 volt welding unit or something. He described a way to heat the pin that way. Sounded a bit beyond what I'd be comfortable with, though (or have the tools for).

 

[alldodge]

My question is why do you want to try heat First?

Try a puller first

 

[GTGeek88]

My question is why do you want to try heat First?

Try a puller first

Oh, I was just trying to get the info now while I'm getting responses so that if I need to use heat later I'll already have what I need. Strike while the iron is hot, you know? (Which could be another way to apply the heat to the pin.) The puller is probably my next move. I just need to buy one.

 

[alldodge]

Rent one from local auto parts store or maybe even home depot

 

[GTGeek88]

Yeah, rental. Forgot about that. They're not much from Harbor Freight or wherever, but I might never use it again in my life. LOL. Thanks.

 

[briangcc]

Autozone rents/used to rent tools like pullers - I did it to move the pulley from a PS pump... Anywho it was a security deposit and you got that back when you returned the tool so all in all - freebie.

 

[GTGeek88]

Autozone rents/used to rent tools like pullers - I did it to move the pulley from a PS pump... Anywho it was a security deposit and you got that back when you returned the tool so all in all - freebie.

Yeah, I called them earlier. They basically told me it's buy, use, return. No cost! I kind of feel scummy doing that, but if they are promoting it, then I guess I'll skip the guilt.