Transom clamps positioning?

[yellosn]

I want to raise my engine a couple inches and wondered how close the clamp pads can be to the top of the transom. Transom appears to me to be solid and in good condition. I plan to use a shim like a 2x2 or something. Thanks for your help.
Troy

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Transom clamps positioning?

As long as the full round pad of the clamp is in contact with the transom, you should be OK. If that motor is above 25HP or so, you need to use transom bolts. If below, be sure to chain it to the transom.

 

[yellosn]

Re: Transom clamps positioning?

Its an RXEL-15C 1967 Johnson 33. Not sure if there are any provisions for bolting the brackets to the transom, but I will be looking at how and where to chain it up. Measuring from the ground up, the AV plate is 3" lower than the bottom of the boat at the rear. I think I can get +1 1/2" safely with a 2x2 shim and the pads will still land 3/8" from the top of the transom. Guess that other 1 1/2" will have to wait until we decide to make some modifications. Thanks again for the help!

 

[Sea Rider]

Re: Transom clamps positioning?

Usually have mine screwed to upper transom borderline, will position the clamps to be in middle plate/pads. Can glue a piece of rubber, tire bladder, pvc fabric on the inside of plate for better clamp tightness against plate, if you can match both eyes to look at each other the better, pass a securing string, lock whatever through them.

Happy Boating

 

[yellosn]

Re: Transom clamps positioning?

Sea Rider, That's a tidy setup. Thanks!

 

[Sea Rider]

Re: Transom clamps positioning?

Sea Rider, That's a tidy setup. Thanks!

If planning to use a wooden shim to raise the engine, better glue shim against transom and secure with at least 4 vertical long apropriate screws to transom and then reposition upwards both inner & outter plates to match new upper transom borderline.

Happy Boating

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Transom clamps positioning?

There is actually no stress on anything above the clamps, or I should say the top of the transom, so spacer or no spacer the stress on the transom is the same. The spacer just makes it easier to position the motor, glueing and screwing won't make a difference.

You just want to make sure the clamps don't slip off the top.

 

[Sea Rider]

Re: Transom clamps positioning?

It's not a transom stress issue, it's about rising a bit the engine with glued/non glued wooden shim but screwed into middle transom so not to move sideways or get lost when removing engine. If you reposition metal inner engine plate matching new upper shim contour, will have centered clamps on middle plate and that was the idea. If you don't do it will have clamps near the border. It's Yellosn entirely decision.

Happy Boating

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Transom clamps positioning?

I miss-read your post a little, I was looking at his setup, not what you said about the inner plate and outer plate that he doesn't have.

Yes, when I raise a motor like this one I typically use an aluminum plate on the inside and outside with a either plywood or aluminum square tubing sandwiched between them. I through bolt it to the transom, not with screws down from the top. This way you can take it higher if needed.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Transom clamps positioning?

In the photo where you have a bungee attached............ you Really need to put a piece of chain or cable attached to that loop. Those 33hp were notorious for jumping on a hard turn and if you raise the motor and should hit anything you will drop that motor into the water.

Be VERY concious od the old 33HP water pick up too........

 

[yellosn]

Re: Transom clamps positioning?

Thanks again for the help. The bungee hanging there was just coincidence, not for anything structural. I raised the motor 1 1/2" and have the tilt/trim pin in the third position out (of four possible). The boat now planes out nicely and runs cleanly through the water @ 3/4-WOT. Prop only sucked air for a moment on a couple turns when we had 2 250+ men in the front seats while pulling a small tube. A little weight re-distribution and never a dry turn. If any of the Posters re-check this thread, is the water intake the circular screen tube near the prop, the holes near the bolt heads under the gear case housing mount, or the semi-ovular plate with the holes in it above the AV plate?? Also, the attachments stopped working. Will try to re-post some of the current set-up. I re-tightened the mount screws several times over the course of running every day this week, and they seem to have bottomed out. I put a wire retainer from handle to handle to keep them from backing out. Will install a safety chain this weekend before we go out again. Many new questions popping up daily. Will try some searches to answer them. Much obliged!