. That's why you don't see anything to physically keep the bulbs dry. They call the kind of light where the bulbs and their receptacles are actually totally sealed in an inner capsule "waterproof". Here's an example:<br /><br />Waterproof Lights<br /><br />I have those and used to always think they were "submersible" but now realize they're called "waterproof". I've been dunking them in the ocean for over 5 years and they've held up without problems very well . A trailer I used to have had the air pocket "submersible" ones and they corroded out right away . Remounted them to the transom, but then had to take 'em off the boat before every launch. Much simpler to just leave the "waterproof" ones on the trailer . Others here like LED lights, but I've no first-hand knowledge of them so I'll defer to those others to tell you about the LED lights. When you're ready to switch, go with the "waterproof" or maybe the LEDs. Good luck. <br /><br />Now, I'm trying to fix my current lights, rather then replace them for 3 reasons. 1)I'm cheap 2)Someone bet me that I could never make "that old crap" work again. 3)I'm getting rid of this god forsaken pile of crap in the spring.<br /><br />Back to my question....to "fix" the lights I think I'm going to solder wires directly to the bulbs. I'm not worried about corrosion, but I am worried about dunking the lights and blowing fuses in my truck. Do you think this will be a problem?Solder in a new one.
Shouldn't be a problem though, I just bought two new "long life" bulbs. I don't think needing new lights is much of a deterent to a buyer, when I bought it to begin with somehow the previous owner managed to smash 8 of 9 reflectors/lenses... Dunking the lights and blowing fuses in your truck won't be a problem if you disconnect the trailer connector from the truck as part of prepping the boat before launching.<br /><br />
If "...all the lights decided to stop working at the same time" there's likely a common cause, like the ground connection to the trailer went bad. Check that the white wire from the connector is making good contact with the trailer frame. Maybe you can avoid trying to do all that rewiring and soldering, which IMHO would be difficult to do well and leave you with a decidedly subpar installation.<br /><br />It'd be tough to make a good solder connection 'cause the wires are prob'ly corroded and you'd have to clean the strands before solder would flow on them. Then to avoid a cold solder joint you'd have to heat the bulb connections to the point where you'd run the risk of the internal bulb connections coming loose. And for the double filament bulbs, you'd have to ensure the brake/turn and running light wires didn't short to each other where they'd be soldered in close proximity on the bottom of the bulbs. And even if you got all that done OK, then you'd be left with the bulbs hanging by the soldered on wires and the resultant bouncing around every time the trailer hit a bump will shorten the life of even the 'long-life' bulbs. JMHO, it's your trailer, you get to make the final call.
You'd think...but I cut the wires for both tail lights and connected them both directly to a battery. Neither work.<br /><br />
I'm using new wire all around, and I've soldered to this kind of bulb before for other projects. Works great.
I love how you just assume I'm going to do a crappy job and then lie to a buyer about it.
First of all, the trailer is quite obviously an old peice of s**t. Any buyer knows what they're getting into. Secondly, the boat and trailer will be in 10 times better condition than when I bought it, and I plan on selling it for the same price...
