trailer light bulbs

nightvision

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 7, 2004
Messages
252
Hi all,<br />I was told that one should maintain one's trailer light bulbs to prevent rusting onto the socket housing. Some said lube some petroleum jelly, anti seize, or marine grease around the bottom of the light bulb before screwing it in. Is this necessary? What lube would be appropriate? What do you use?
 

tommays

Admiral
Joined
Jul 4, 2004
Messages
6,768
Re: trailer light bulbs

i dont of any lights sold in a while that you can even change the bulb most are sealed ? and you change the whole thing<br /><br /><br />tommays
 

LubeDude

Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
6,945
Re: trailer light bulbs

Petrolium jelly works fine, gob a bunch on the end and put it in. Unplug your lights before you back trailer into the water. Brake lights get hot and then when they hit the cold water they can break.
 

paulie0735

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 6, 2005
Messages
463
Re: trailer light bulbs

Absolutely!! I remove the globes annually and spray with fish oil in an aerosol can; it’s a bit messy but seems to hang around longer than the petroleum and synthetic products. Consider stepping up to the sealed units if you’re using your boat in salt water. I have custom lights in my trailer and stopped trying to seal them years ago, I finished up drilling a hole in the base to let the water out!!! Since than I have had no problems and not even replaced a globe in about 5 years. I also disconnect the plug while preparing the boat for launch, just a tip I got years ago and have just got into a habit of doing now, don’t even remember why!!<br /><br />Good luck.
 

levittownnick

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 2, 2003
Messages
789
Re: trailer light bulbs

1 reason to disconnect the trailer lights when launching is to prevent the copper wire from electrolysis. It just plates off the wire and the wire reduces in thickness until it breakes.
 

SwampNut

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Messages
325
Re: trailer light bulbs

The best way to maintain them is to replace them with sealed LED units. I will never ever have to change a rusty bulb again or wonder if I have a light out while rolling down the road.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,993
Re: trailer light bulbs

Ayuh,...........<br /><br />Install LEDs,+ All you'll have to Worry about is Rotten/Corroded Wiring Conections..................... ;)
 

SwampNut

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Messages
325
Re: trailer light bulbs

And use heat-sealed/shrink connectors!
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,152
Re: trailer light bulbs

The best way to maintain them is to replace them with sealed LED units
LED units are turning out not to be the magic cure all afterall. I lost 2 LED the first year and know several people whom had to replace the unit after 3 years. In fact there is a reacall out for several brands of LED right now from short LED lifes
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,815
Re: trailer light bulbs

I use the bell jar type ones, and I packed the sockets with OMC triple guard grease, no problems in salt water for the past few years. I crimp connections and then seal em up with liquid electrical tape. LED sounds good too, but this works for me even in the salt.
 

phantoms

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 14, 2005
Messages
246
Re: trailer light bulbs

Originally posted by BoatBuoy:<br /> And solder them. ;)
The coast guard recommends using butt connectors on boats, not solder. I don't know if this applies to trailers too or not. Either way, make sure to use adhesive lined heat shrink to seal it up.
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: trailer light bulbs

Salt water corroded the bell jar type lights in one season, even with marine grease all over the connections. Then I bought the first set of LED's. They leaked water in after second use. Called manufacturer and they send me a new set. I drilled a small hole to drain the old set and used them the rest of last season with no problems. Think I'll keep the new set as backup until these die. Or maybe put the old set on e-bay... yeah, that's the ticket!
 

rwidman

Lieutenant
Joined
May 27, 2004
Messages
1,396
Re: trailer light bulbs

My LED trailer lights are in their third season of use (salt water) with no problems. And I don't disconnect them when launching. It's important to seal the splices with adhesive lined heat shrink connectors as stated above.
 

SwampNut

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Messages
325
Re: trailer light bulbs

The big difference is that LED lights fail when there is a mistake made in their production. The standard lights fail by design. Even when perfectly made, they will fail. Personally I'll go with the better design and hope it was actually manufactured correctly.<br /><br />I bought mine at West Marine where they have a good return/repair policy. They weren't cheap, but at least coupons helped. If I never have to replace another bulb in the rain at a truck stop, it's well worth it.
 

phantoms

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 14, 2005
Messages
246
Re: trailer light bulbs

Also, don't get gung-ho when you tighten the LEDs down. It just takes a light snugging. Over-tightening them causes the cases to develop cracks from stress and eventually leads to water intrusion.
 

byacey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 20, 2005
Messages
443
Re: trailer light bulbs

I would recommend soldering too. The lead in the solder is more or less inactive in water, it protects the copper connection from corroding. My personal experience is a crimped and soldered joint will far oulast anything just crimped because the actual connection is sealed in lead / tin. others will argue this, but that is my experience.
 

JB

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
45,907
Re: trailer light bulbs

What Bill said about soldered/crimped/sealed connections.<br /><br />Gonna put LEDs on my trailer this year.
 

byacey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 20, 2005
Messages
443
Re: trailer light bulbs

crimp it, and then heat with the soldering iron and flow solder into the connector barrel where the wire is crimped until the barrel is full of solder.
 
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