Trailer Brakes Backer Plates

[edgutgesell]

I have a mid 80's EZ Loader tandom trailer with surge drum brakes. I recently had a wheel lock going forward but it would roll backward. I pulled the wheel and drum as a unit by removing the bearing buddy, cotter pin and nut. The cause of the wheel lock was the front brake lining had ripped off and was jamming going forward. The brake shoes, springs, backer plates, etc. were very corroded so I decided to replace all four brake assemblies with new brake assemblies. I also decided to replace all of the brake lines with new stainless steel lines. <br /><br />The backer plates do not have bolts and nuts securing them to the axles. Instead of bolts, there are studs that are welded to the backer plates and nuts on the studs secure the backer plates to the axle. Three of the four bolts came loose with a breaker bar after soaking with PB Blaster for hours. Is there a better penetrating oil?? I have heard that "Fluid Film" was very good. The fourth nut wouldn't budge even with heat because I could not get a socket completely on the 11/16th nut. I finally bought a "nut buster" to split the nut. This worked but the job to replace a single brake assembly took much too long to accomplish and my arms and hands will probably be scarred for life.<br /><br />My question is:<br /><br />What can I use to speed up removal of the corroded brake backer plates from the axles? I don't have an acetylene cutting torch, but that would be my first choice if I knew how to use one. I do have a reciprocating saw, but I will be doing the brakes and line replacement with the boat on the trailer. My reciprocating saw may be too large to handle between the boat and trailer axle. Has anyone used a reciprocating saw for this job? Will a grinder work? What would you use?? <br /><br />As always, your responses are greatly appreciated!!!

 

[tommays]

Re: Trailer Brakes Backer Plates

it sounds like you will have a problem if you break a stud so i think you current method is good BUT you need to soak longer 24 hours ? <br /><br />with a propane torch you might need to heat 15 minutes and then let it cool if it does not move <br /><br />the heat and cool will breakup a lot of rust<br /><br />i am wondering how you can get a nut spliter around it and NOT a socket ?<br /><br /><br />tommays

 

[edgutgesell]

Re: Trailer Brakes Backer Plates

Hi Tommays,<br /><br />The new Titan brake assemblys backer plates do not have welded studs, but use bolts and nuts to secure to the axles. Because of that, I don't care if I break or cut a stud. The new bolts I am using are 7/16 x 14 stainless steel with stainless steel locknuts. I was fortunate enough to have the stuck nut's flats horizontal which allowed the buster cutter and anvil enough bite to work. The position of the 11/16" nut also caused the socket to not work because the point of the nut was against the axle not allowing the socket to fully seat over the nut. The new stainless steel locknuts I am using uses a 5/8" wrench or socket instead of 11/16" which allows enough clearance between the point of the nut and the axle.

 

[edgutgesell]

Re: Trailer Brakes Backer Plates

Tommays,<br /><br />One more thing. My nutbuster is like a very beefy "c" clamp with a positionable hardened cutter on one side and the anvil applying pressure from an offset 3/4" nut and piston driven by my 1/2" ratchet handle or breaker bar. I have seen the collar type of nut buster but I think the use of that type is much more limited because of it being a collar over the entire nut. I have split 1 1/8" nuts with this tool.