Toughest carpet for trailer bunks and side boards?

Boomyal

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Any recommendations. The last I used was typical indoor/outdoor carpet. It just disintegrates after a few years. I do not have any issues with attachiing it as I use glue and monel staples.
 

JASinIL2006

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I used a good quality exterior rated carpet from Lowes. Not the cheap, thin, plastic-looking stuff, but carpet with some weight to it. It's holding up well.
 

oldjeep

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I bought mine from a place that sells mainly on ebay. pretty heavy 20oz cut pile - boatcarpetsales is the seller.
 

gm280

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I also used carpet from a place on EBay. They sell a ton of Marine capable carpet in most any color and thickness you would want. And I never had any issues myself. If you think about it. Trailer carpet really doesn't get much wear issue but more sun issues. That is the side board carpet anyway. A boat sitting day after day after day doesn't do much to the carpet other then flatten it down. JMHO!
 

bruceb58

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The carpet under my Wellcraft is 18 years old and is still n good condition but the carpet on the side bunks is the one that wears out. I also buy mine from the boatcarpetsales guy on eBay that has good prices.

Last purchase was a 100' roll of 1' wide for $49.95 with free shipping. That was for my pontoon boat trailer

You have to look for some of his special priced items. If you insist on black or a popular color you will pay more.
 
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Boomyal

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...... Trailer carpet really doesn't get much wear issue but more sun issues. That is the side board carpet anyway. ......

That is my experience. The side board carpets show sun issue degradation. The bunk carpets (same stuff) only suffers from friction cuts.
 

oldjeep

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That is my experience. The side board carpets show sun issue degradation. The bunk carpets (same stuff) only suffers from friction cuts.

On mine it it the tracking fin hits that really tear it up.
 

four winns 214

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I just replaced the carpet on two bunks. Where the carpet was most compromised was at the edges and corners of the bunk board. Before installing the new carpet, I rounded over the edges and corners to remove the points of stress. I'll find out in a few years if it was a waste of time.
 
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Boomyal

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.........Before installing the new carpet, I rounded over the edges and corners to remove the points of stress. I'll find out in a few years if it was a waste of time.

You know FW, that sounds like a cardianal idea. Did you use a router to do it. What radius did you round it to?
 

bruceb58

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I agree...that does sound like a good idea. I am going to do that next time. A belt sander would probably work as well.
 

gm280

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I actually did use a router with a round over bit on my trailer bunks. I use a 1/2" round over bit on all edges and even cut a slight taper at the end of the bunks to aid in loading the boat. Any time you remover sharp square edges, the carpet is easier to install and won't wear harder at those edges as well. :thumb:
 

four winns 214

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A router with 1/2" round over bit is the best solution, but a simple rasp and file will do as well.
 

frustratedboater

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The router is an awesome idea and it will save your edges in the long run.

For what it is worth, have you seen that spray-on stuff, like a silicone spray-on stuff that dries clear and real slick? I used it on my float off (that really needed replacement) and it bought me a couple of years...
 

Boomyal

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Now to find the right carpet and a place to dock my boat as I do the work. Years ago, I used pressure treated wood for both the bunks and the sideboards. Then I used stainless lags to secure them. I also treated them with some yucky green stuff to ward off rot.. In both cases the wood has held up very well and the Monel staples have held well.
 

bruceb58

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I use regular wood. No rot. And I would not be using a router on pressure treated wood. Bad enough just cutting it.
 

gm280

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I did use treated wood for the bunks and side planks as well. But I had that treated lumber bought at least six months before I actually used them. They were laying in my shop flat on the floor. Then a used stainless steel carriage bolts and counter sunk them and filled over the holes to give a smooth surface. I also applied two coats of 50/50 polyurethane clear and mineral spirits on the cut and rounded over parts. Then I allowed those coats to dry and applied primer and two coats of enamel paint before glue and carpet with stainless steel staples. Sounds over kill, but the do last a really long time.

Bruceb, Two things you can do to limit your exposure to most anything like the chemicals used to pressure treat wood. First do all the cuts and round overs out side. Secondly, use 3M 6700 filtration mask. Easy Peasy JMHO!
 
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