Torque specs for impellar housing?

[hostage]

Against my better judgement I RTFM, 60foot lbs? I just sheared a bolt off, I thought it was way to high, though it has a new gasket so what do I know.

Any problems saying F it ans using only 3 bolts. I am pissed off as all hell. Did I miss read something?

 

[Bt Doctur]

Dont know where you read that 60 inch pounds = 5 foot pounds.,on a GEN II you need all 4 bolts to seal the pump cover or you will suck air. Use a 1/4 in drive ratchet and 2 fingers to tighten the bolts

 

[Bt Doctur]

Hand start two (2) fasteners into the water pump assembly and remove the water pump
locating pins. Assemble the remaining two (2) fasteners. Run all fasteners down and
torque to 60 lb-in. (7.9 Nm).
IMPORTANT: The water pump face seal must be installed as outlined below. Improperly

 

[alldodge]

That's a bummer but first column is lb-in (pound inch or called inch pounds), the second column is foot pounds

 

[hostage]

Bah, stupid units, well at least I am not the only one who read it wrong. Should have gone with my gut. What bol does it take and I wonder if I can remove it and replace it with a bolt without removing water housing. Never removed a sheared off bolt

 

[JASinIL2006]

I did that, too. In my case, I had a defective, cheap torque wrench. I had to take the housing off to get at it. There was enough of a stub sticking out that I was able to file a slot in the remains of the screw and back it out with a flat blade screwdriver. I found a screw that fit as a replacement ( I have a vague recollection that it was metric, but it's been a while and I don't remember completely). I ultimately ordered OEM replacement screws because the ones I put in were not stainless, and I did not want them to rust in place. The temporary replacement screw that I used was in there for a season, and it came out just fine as I was doing my between season maintenance work six months later.

I don't think it would have been possible to get it out without pulling the pump housing.

 

[wahlejim]

Always use stainless when possible on a boat, especially if it is contacting aluminum to minimize galvanic corrosion.

The only way I can think of to not have to remove the housing is to use a left handed drill bit and go after the remaining section of bolt.

However, I would highly recommend removing the entire housing and re-attaching because there is little room for error with the drill. Also, you can take a bolt to the hardware store and compare sizes to buy the correct one, and with all bolts out, you can re-attach properly.

I use my well calibrated fingers for this one, not my well calibrated elbow