Sea Rider
Supreme Mariner
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2008
- Messages
- 12,345
Just for the record. A Tohatsu 18 HP owner with cracy ideas that states that marine engines doesn't need to be flushed after each outing began having overheating and poorly peeing issues.
The engine has just 75 metered running hours from out of the box, 2 places to look after. Peeing hole obstruction or bad cond impeller. Immediate LU impossible to be removed, the spring pin that holds the joint shift rod is completely seized due to salt and rust formation. Will need to be drilled out.
Removed complete crankcase assy, lower crank and upper pan water passages were a salt mess, sprayed pure vinegar overdose, let soak for an hour, with Japanese sushi wooden sticks and extreme patience rubbed all water paths to inmaculate clean condition. Scraping with a metallic sharp object could remove metal bits from water paths that will inevitably led for salt deposits to start forming there.
To my surprise found that the peeing hole located at upper pan’s end is not a straight one, meets into a chamber with lower peeing path that exits through upper leg side. If you poke a wire, W40 or carb cleaner cannula through lower peeing hole you won’t see it exiting through upper pan, a plastic tie & wrap which is more flexible will work his way through upper pan, internal chamber and exit through leg’s side. If you insert same cannula, tie & wrap through peeing port will only reach internal chamber and won’t make their way through pan which connects lower crankcase water paths through pan.
If experiencing engine poorly peeing issues, fully tilt engine, spray an overdose of W40 or vinegar, long soak is mandatory along air or high pressure water blast through peeing hole. Having crankcase removed is much faster to clean as you can poke back & forth a tie & wrap from both sides while turning TW 360? to remove salt with its back rugged surface. Thermo and pan’s gasket being at a very bad state was mandatory to change for my peace of mind and to go along the entire work performed.
Took advantage to fully re torque complete powerhead along carbon guard decarbonization with engine on, now engine is purring as a kitten and peeing as a teenager again. Idiotic boater and $ 150 after has learned the bitter lesson….
Bottomline : Flush your engine after each outing, your engine will be eternally thankfull…
Happy Boating
The engine has just 75 metered running hours from out of the box, 2 places to look after. Peeing hole obstruction or bad cond impeller. Immediate LU impossible to be removed, the spring pin that holds the joint shift rod is completely seized due to salt and rust formation. Will need to be drilled out.
Removed complete crankcase assy, lower crank and upper pan water passages were a salt mess, sprayed pure vinegar overdose, let soak for an hour, with Japanese sushi wooden sticks and extreme patience rubbed all water paths to inmaculate clean condition. Scraping with a metallic sharp object could remove metal bits from water paths that will inevitably led for salt deposits to start forming there.
To my surprise found that the peeing hole located at upper pan’s end is not a straight one, meets into a chamber with lower peeing path that exits through upper leg side. If you poke a wire, W40 or carb cleaner cannula through lower peeing hole you won’t see it exiting through upper pan, a plastic tie & wrap which is more flexible will work his way through upper pan, internal chamber and exit through leg’s side. If you insert same cannula, tie & wrap through peeing port will only reach internal chamber and won’t make their way through pan which connects lower crankcase water paths through pan.
If experiencing engine poorly peeing issues, fully tilt engine, spray an overdose of W40 or vinegar, long soak is mandatory along air or high pressure water blast through peeing hole. Having crankcase removed is much faster to clean as you can poke back & forth a tie & wrap from both sides while turning TW 360? to remove salt with its back rugged surface. Thermo and pan’s gasket being at a very bad state was mandatory to change for my peace of mind and to go along the entire work performed.
Took advantage to fully re torque complete powerhead along carbon guard decarbonization with engine on, now engine is purring as a kitten and peeing as a teenager again. Idiotic boater and $ 150 after has learned the bitter lesson….
Bottomline : Flush your engine after each outing, your engine will be eternally thankfull…
Happy Boating
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