buccaneer_35
Cadet
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2010
- Messages
- 10
I have a Tohatsu MFS 9.8A2 EPUL
I have the service manual
A few weeks ago the battery cable corroded, so I pulled it. Later, not having replaced the battery cable, but wanting to go sailing and needing the engine only to leave and return to the dock, I figured I would just use the pull cord. Because one of the lever cables was loose, I propped open the neutral safety lock with a screw. Engine starts in one pull. Yay!
Upon needing the engine to return to dock, crewman forgets to put gear in neutral (it is in forward), crewman pulls cord and the engine turns over once, then quits. Pull cord is now locked and no amount of messing with neutral lock will help. Indeed, messing with lock just causes the screw to fall into the pull cord housing. Doh!
No engine, no problem: sailed in many times. Hit dock. Hole in boat. Doh! Above waterline. Yay!
Now I think, Okay, fix the battery cable and start engine without pull cord. So, I fix the battery cable, attach, but I get nothing out of the engine. Think battery dead, check. Think dual kill switches, check. However, because the solenoid doesn't even do so much as click I figure it's an electrical issue. Maybe I connected the battery cable to the starter solenoid incorrectly? Nope (didn't have the service manual on me, but I checked when I got home). Given that I didn't have the service manual on me, and not knowing if positive should go starboard to the starter solenoid or the other way round, I switched from positive starboard to positive port. As now to be expected (having looked at my manual), this did not help.
Questions:
1. Did I damage the engine when it was started in gear?
2. Did I damage the engine when I connected positive to port starter solenoid?
3. Given that the solenoid won't engage - does that signify an electrial issue?
4. The service manual lists 12 electrical issues for Engine Fails to Start in Troubleshooting. The spark plugs are easy to check, the shift lever is now in neutral, lock plates are fitted (these are the u-shaped plastic red keys, right??). However, is there another electrical reason that, from your years of experience, is standing out to be checked next?
Thank you!
I have the service manual
A few weeks ago the battery cable corroded, so I pulled it. Later, not having replaced the battery cable, but wanting to go sailing and needing the engine only to leave and return to the dock, I figured I would just use the pull cord. Because one of the lever cables was loose, I propped open the neutral safety lock with a screw. Engine starts in one pull. Yay!
Upon needing the engine to return to dock, crewman forgets to put gear in neutral (it is in forward), crewman pulls cord and the engine turns over once, then quits. Pull cord is now locked and no amount of messing with neutral lock will help. Indeed, messing with lock just causes the screw to fall into the pull cord housing. Doh!
No engine, no problem: sailed in many times. Hit dock. Hole in boat. Doh! Above waterline. Yay!
Now I think, Okay, fix the battery cable and start engine without pull cord. So, I fix the battery cable, attach, but I get nothing out of the engine. Think battery dead, check. Think dual kill switches, check. However, because the solenoid doesn't even do so much as click I figure it's an electrical issue. Maybe I connected the battery cable to the starter solenoid incorrectly? Nope (didn't have the service manual on me, but I checked when I got home). Given that I didn't have the service manual on me, and not knowing if positive should go starboard to the starter solenoid or the other way round, I switched from positive starboard to positive port. As now to be expected (having looked at my manual), this did not help.
Questions:
1. Did I damage the engine when it was started in gear?
2. Did I damage the engine when I connected positive to port starter solenoid?
3. Given that the solenoid won't engage - does that signify an electrial issue?
4. The service manual lists 12 electrical issues for Engine Fails to Start in Troubleshooting. The spark plugs are easy to check, the shift lever is now in neutral, lock plates are fitted (these are the u-shaped plastic red keys, right??). However, is there another electrical reason that, from your years of experience, is standing out to be checked next?
Thank you!