Timing questions (Joe Reeves Method)

fixmyevinrude

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Read Mr. Reeves method and my questions are these.

1) On a V6 (1994 200 Evinrude) should cylinders 2 thru 6 be grounded?

2) If yes, what is the best way to do this?

3) I know you have to disable the quick start feature. How is this accomplished?
 

boobie

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Re: Timing questions (Joe Reeves Method)

1) Yes

2) Jumper wires from spark plug leads to ground.

3) Disconnect the black/white wire from the port temp switch on the cyl head and ground it.
 

Haffiman

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Re: Timing questions (Joe Reeves Method)

Never directly ground a spark plug lead. Either hook it up to a spark tester or leave it on the plug, but clamp the plug to ground. Keep the sparking area away from the plug holes to avoid any surprises!!!
You will have to disconnect the yellow/red from solenoid to powerpack as well as grounding the black/white lead (powerpack side) from stb temp sensor to prevent the quick start to be activated as well as keeping it off.
 

boobie

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Re: Timing questions (Joe Reeves Method)

Why ? It's the same thing as a plug that is not firing and grounded out.
 

Haffiman

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Re: Timing questions (Joe Reeves Method)

Why ? It's the same thing as a plug that is not firing and grounded out.
Not quite.
Directly grounding, you run 25+++K Volts straight into the block! (You probably do not want that returning backwards into the powerpack ground or any ground for that sake??)
Grounding directly you loose the pre-load needed for the ignition system to work properly and may burn the power pack.
OMC/BPR has a special 'load resistor' to be used as 'special tool' to prevent this to happen, but for a DUI to buy 6 of these is a bit too much to ask. A grounded plug or spark tester does the same, what the load resistor prevents is the open spark. If fuel/air mix gets sprayed out of the spark plug hole and the plug/tester is to close, it might be somewhat exiting!
 
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Re: Timing questions (Joe Reeves Method)

Why ? It's the same thing as a plug that is not firing and grounded out.

You'd be shorting out the secondary side of the coils, causing a very high current condition and possibly damaging the coils. And that will also put a bigger current draw on the power pack (basic EE type stuff). Why take a chance?


Directly grounding, you run 25+++K Volts straight into the block!

Actually that's not the case. The voltage at the coil would be forced to just a few volts, depending on the resistance of the wire that you've grounded it with. Remember the old lawnmowers which we used to turn off with a piece of metal that shorted to the plug?

But in any case, yes, coils or the power pack could be damaged (because of high current).
 

boobie

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Re: Timing questions (Joe Reeves Method)

So what you're saying here if I have my mtr running running down the lake and a plug or two shorts out to ground from fouling out it is going to ruin the power pack ???
 

Haffiman

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Re: Timing questions (Joe Reeves Method)

So what you're saying here if I have my mtr running running down the lake and a plug or two shorts out to ground from fouling out it is going to ruin the power pack ???
May, may not. It will depend on the total resistance in the plug from where the lead is attached, through the internals of the plug and through the 'fouling'. Quite a difference compared to a direct lead grounding!!!
 

Haffiman

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Re: Timing questions (Joe Reeves Method)

You'd be shorting out the secondary side of the coils, causing a very high current condition and possibly damaging the coils. And that will also put a bigger current draw on the power pack (basic EE type stuff). Why take a chance?




Actually that's not the case. The voltage at the coil would be forced to just a few volts, depending on the resistance of the wire that you've grounded it with. Remember the old lawnmowers which we used to turn off with a piece of metal that shorted to the plug?

But in any case, yes, coils or the power pack could be damaged (because of high current).

I believe those lawn movers ran about 8-12K volts as max, but yes. You will not get the full voltage by direct grounding, but more than enough to risk the components. Used the 25K as an 'indication' being a known value for most people familiar with the system.
 

fixmyevinrude

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Re: Timing questions (Joe Reeves Method)

Thankyou for all the great info. I am asuming that by grounding the temp switch the engine thinks it at operating temp and anjusts timing accordingly. That being said, I am now at the starting point for setting the timing at full throttle using Mr. Reeves Method. Is this correct?

Perhaps I will make a spark tester out of an old distributer cap as seen in another post. Would this work to keep electronics safe?

I would then use my inductive timing light on the #1 spark plug lead.
 
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Re: Timing questions (Joe Reeves Method)

So what you're saying here if I have my mtr running running down the lake and a plug or two shorts out to ground from fouling out it is going to ruin the power pack ???!


NO, that shouldn't happen (IF you're using the right plugs). These engines use resistor plugs, you shouldn't get anywhere near enough current flow through them to cause damage.


I believe those lawn movers ran about 8-12K volts as max, but yes. You will not get the full voltage by direct grounding, but more than enough to risk the components. Used the 25K as an 'indication' being a known value for most people familiar with the system.

What's going to do damage is the high current caused by a short. It doesn't really matter what voltage the plugs see, in the case of a short to ground it's a matter of how much current the components can handle. (I hope it doesn't seem like I'm being overbearing on this, I'm a EE and have plenty of experience with overheating transformers and such).


Perhaps I will make a spark tester out of an old distributer cap as seen in another post. Would this work to keep electronics safe?

I hadn't thought of that, but it sounds like an excellent idea.
 
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