Timing problem

[nateo]

Ok, I'm in it deep here with major time and money. Just fixed bent valve in head. Forgot to mark distributor before taking it out. First I tried moving engine to tdc with a socket wrench placed on harmonic balancer. It seemed like engine moved a little bit but it also seemed like I was just tightening up that bolt so I stopped with that. Did I screw something up with that attempt? Ok so I found a thread that suggested placing finger over #1 and feel for compression while trying to get timing mark close to 0. Then point rotor at #1 cylinder. This is steps I followed to stab distributor. Ok so have everything back together and engine turns over but won't start. It's clearly backfiring out of carb. Engine kinda sounds like its farting when it tries to start. I know timing isn't correct but will that prevent engine from starting? How do I adjust timing if I can't get to start?

 

[Alumarine]

You pointed the rotor to the contact in the distributor for the #1 cylinder right?

 

[nateo]

You pointed the rotor to the contact in the distributor for the #1 cylinder right?

I pointed at #1 cylinder on the engine itself to stab it.

Are the instructions you're referring to get the timing close or to "stab" the distributor? If to get timing close, do I need to be at tdc? If so how do I get to tdc?

 

[Bt Doctur]

You need:
number 1 cylinder on compression stroke and TDC with timing mark at "0" on the tab. To find the compression stroke, remove the right side valve cover, watch the second valve open and close. This is coming up on compression. slowly turn the motor until the timing mark on the balancer is at "0"
install the dist with the rotor pointing at #1 position in the cap, and make sure in locates in the oil pump drive correctly.
install the cap and wires in a clockwise direction ,1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 1,3,5,7 are on your right facing the motor and 2,4,6,8 are on your left.

 

[nateo]

You need:
number 1 cylinder on compression stroke and TDC with timing mark at "0" on the tab. To find the compression stroke, remove the right side valve cover, watch the second valve open and close. This is coming up on compression. slowly turn the motor until the timing mark on the balancer is at "0"
install the dist with the rotor pointing at #1 position in the cap, and make sure in locates in the oil pump drive correctly.
install the cap and wires in a clockwise direction ,1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 1,3,5,7 are on your right facing the motor and 2,4,6,8 are on your left.

Ok, this is starting to make sense now. How do I hit tdc 0 mark? when I was turning the nut on harmonic balancer, at first it was turning the engine but then it kind felt like I was stripping it. Nothing was moving expect the bolt. Was it in fact just tightening the bolt and I was being paranoid? do i need to take out all belts and all spark plugs to turn it?

 

[Watermann]

The distributor will only go in correctly or 180 degrees out but obviously since it wasn't marked the timing will be off but close enough to start firing off. You should be able to turn the distributer while cranking and get it going. Sounds like you just need to pull the distributor up enough to spin the rotor 180 and drop back in.

 

[Bt Doctur]

you use a battery and a starter button to tap the motor over while watching for the line on the balancer to get to "0" degrees
If you persist in using the nose bolt, you will break it off and will need the crankshaft removed to fix it.

 

[bruceb58]

when I was turning the nut on harmonic balancer, at first it was turning the engine but then it kind felt like I was stripping it. Nothing was moving expect the bolt. Was it in fact just tightening the bolt and I was being paranoid? do i need to take out all belts and all spark plugs to turn it?

Just remove the plugs.

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Pull the plugs out to turn the engine over easy by hand.

You have to pull the distributor cap off to see the rotor, but then you don't know where #1 is on the cap. The way I do it, before removing the cap, put a piece of tape on the distributor right under the cap and mark the center of the post you want to make the #1 cylinder using a pen. You can make any of them #1 but usually is one that closest to the #1 cylinder that is used.

Now remove the cap and you have a mark on the distributor to align the rotor up with.

Rotate the engine with your finger over the spark plug hole for #1, until you feel air pushing your finger off the hole. Then continue to rotate the engine slowly until your harmonic balancer mark aligns with whatever ? BTDC on the timing tab your timing is suppose to be at. If it calls for 8? or 10? stop when the mark is there. Look at the rotor and see if it pointing at the tape mark.

if it's close then loosen and twist the distributor to align the rotor to the mark, if it's far off, then pull the distributor and get it on the mark.

It will take a couple of tries on and off and you will have to twist the oil pump drive shaft with a long screwdriver to the correct spot (driven by the bottom of the distributor) to get the rotor on the tape mark.

 

[flipbro]

I still want to know how your piston come into contact with a valve without jumping teeth on timing gear or a thrown rod bearing.unless your running flattops with a tight quinch and larg cam in that 305.I'm note trying to be negitive but that valve bent from more then an over reve...

 

[achris]

I still want to know how your piston come into contact with a valve without jumping teeth on timing gear or a thrown rod bearing.unless your running flattops with a tight quinch and larg cam in that 305.I'm note trying to be negitive but that valve bent from more then an over reve...

Didn't you read the entire thread? The collet flicked out (due to the over rev, probably on 'valve bounce', when the spring starts oscillating), that allowed the spring to canter over and cause the valve to jam on the guide due to side loading. The valve jams in the open position and the piston gives it a smack. No timing gear jumping a tooth or bent rods, just a simple 'piston kiss'....

Chris.......

 

[flipbro]

I did read it.Guess I never put the evidence together.

 

[nateo]

Didn't you read the entire thread? The collet flicked out (due to the over rev, probably on 'valve bounce', when the spring starts oscillating), that allowed the spring to canter over and cause the valve to jam on the guide due to side loading. The valve jams in the open position and the piston gives it a smack. No timing gear jumping a tooth or bent rods, just a simple 'piston kiss'....

Chris.......

Also one of the keepers broke on that valve

 

[nateo]

Just remove the plugs.

I had all the plugs out. Can't remember if I had the belts on or not.

 

[nateo]

Just remove the plugs.

tried removing plugs, belts and distributor. Put regular size socket wrench on there and nothing moved.

 

[nateo]

How does one get it to land exactly on tdc ? I had a helper bump the key but it never lands exactly on it.

 

[bruceb58]

Doesn't have to be exact. Just need to get it close enough to be able to start the engine so you can set the timing.

 

[nateo]

ok, picked me up a remote starter button and boda bing got er timed up properly, finally got her back running.