I need to swap the engine mounting brackets and associated parts from a parts motor to another that we are going to refinish in order to minimize the area we need to sand blast and paint. The engine to be refinished has a good bit of bracket and lower unit corrosion from sitting in the water in a boat house in a corrosive although fresh water environment...(lots of magnesium in the water.... Smith Lake in AL).
The donor motor is a 70 hp long shaft Johnson with the parts going onto a like year 70 hp Evinrude long shaft engine and they are a direct match.
I'm baffled on how to get the tilt tube free from the donor.
The swivel assembly and attached brackets intact are already removed from the donor engine. The problem is that there is one nut on the tube outside the brackets but two additional nuts (one on each side) that are captive in the bracket. I've done this on a merc 115 in the past but it only had one external nut and one captive on the opposite side.
How does one unscrew the tube from the two captive nuts since a wrench or socket can't be applied to them? All I've been able to come up with is perhaps to use an additional nut as a jam nut to lock the outside nut on the tube to enable the tube itself to be turned on the two captive nuts until enough thread is passed by the tube in order to create enough clearance on one nut to drive it to one side to enable a wrench to get on the opposite nut.
Hellllllllllllllllllllllllp!
Steve
The donor motor is a 70 hp long shaft Johnson with the parts going onto a like year 70 hp Evinrude long shaft engine and they are a direct match.
I'm baffled on how to get the tilt tube free from the donor.
The swivel assembly and attached brackets intact are already removed from the donor engine. The problem is that there is one nut on the tube outside the brackets but two additional nuts (one on each side) that are captive in the bracket. I've done this on a merc 115 in the past but it only had one external nut and one captive on the opposite side.
How does one unscrew the tube from the two captive nuts since a wrench or socket can't be applied to them? All I've been able to come up with is perhaps to use an additional nut as a jam nut to lock the outside nut on the tube to enable the tube itself to be turned on the two captive nuts until enough thread is passed by the tube in order to create enough clearance on one nut to drive it to one side to enable a wrench to get on the opposite nut.
Hellllllllllllllllllllllllp!
Steve