Tie Down Engineering Master Cylinder for Tracker

[soler]

I have a 2009 Tahoe Q8i on a 2008 Trailstar trailer. The master cylinder is Tie Down Engineering LP7000. It leaks, and is empty. I need to replace it, but need to make sure I get the right part. Tie Down Engineering is closed for the holidays and I need to order this part ASAP. Long story short, my brother has the boat in Utah, and I'm only visiting here in UT for a few more days and need to get it done while I'm here. I was looking on Champion Trailers's website. I found a kit, #47267K but they say it'll void the warranty if used on this trailer. I called them and they said that there is some strange part that is used on my trailer that will make the brakes drag.

Can anyone shed some light on this for me?

Thanks

SOLER

 

[alldodge]

The strange part with the master cylinder isn't so strange to me. There is a hole in the check valve just behind the brake line fitting. Disc brakes require no pressure to remain in the lines once the tongue is released, if there is no hole then the brakes stay engage slightly.

If you bought a master cylinder for disc brakes (thinking that you do have disc) it should work. If you get one for drum brakes, need to remove the end fitting and use something to put a hole in the check valve, small hole.

Your trailer should be out of warranty anyway

 

[NYBo]

Tie Down isn't very popular among the members here. This might be the time to ditch the entire coupler assembly and replace it with some other brand.

 

[bruceb58]

Do you have disk or drum brakes?

 

[soler]

I have disc brakes...thought I mentioned that...obviously not LOL. So, I'd love to ditch the Tie Down brand, but not sure what I'd get to replace it. The whole tongue has given me fits since I owned it...shame on me for accepting it; I should have not taken delivery until they gave me a new trailer. The safety cables are rusted in the slots and won't go in or out. Been rusted since I got it, but now are completely messed up. I'd love to replace the whole swing-arm but not sure what will fit. But for now just want to get the brakes working for as little $$ as possible for the time being.

Any suggestions either way?

Thanks.

 

[bruceb58]

Have a picture of your setup?

 

[soler]

Have a picture of your setup?

Nope...I'll have to take one in the morning.

 

[soler]

No Title

Here's a pic of the tongue.

 

[bruceb58]

I would probably just change out the master cylinder.

 

[dingbat]

Nothing wrong with TieDown couplers. I actually prefer them over other brands because they use aluminum master cylinders. No ferrous materials in my brake system

 

[bruceb58]

Nothing wrong with steel master cylinders. As with any brake system, trailer or auto, you should be changing your brake fluid every few years.

 

[dingbat]

Nothing wrong with steel master cylinders. As with any brake system, trailer or auto, you should be changing your brake fluid every few years.

cast master cylinders are a pile of rust in a season. Non stainless break line last less than 2 years. Got tired of dealing with it. When to Stainless calipers and brake lines with aluminum master cylinder. Problem solved

 

[alldodge]

Would you agree if your near salt water, steel may not be the best choice (maybe prime and paint), but fresh water seems to work just fine.

Mine is steel, I have tie-down stainless calipers, and I drilled a 1/16 inch hole in the front check valve to make it work many years ago.

 

[bruceb58]

I have never seen a master cylinder fail from the outside unless they get dunked in water.

 

[Lou C]

I put a Tie Down Model 66 actuator on my 94 Load Rite back in '04 and it's still working fine. It does help to change the brake fluid to get rid of moisture which of course causes corrosion.