Thunderbolt 5 Base Timing Issues

tank1949

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After some health issues, I am back into rebuilding my Old Sea Ray. I have port running great. Starboard is having issues. 1: I cannot get performance. It feels like it is in timing and will not advance (correctly). I disconnected lead and grounding it, but distributor still advances on dampener tab when I advance throttle. This doesn't seem to be correct. There should be NO advance. My oil pressure and temperature switch triggers alarm but senders display normal temperature and oil pressure on gauges. My heat exchanger (radiator) cap permits water to seep out. Not a lot and it is intermittent. However, does the heat exchanger require a special cap? I just used a new Chevy V8 auto cap. Attached is heat exchange cap photo.
 

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Scott06

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After some health issues, I am back into rebuilding my Old Sea Ray. I have port running great. Starboard is having issues. 1: I cannot get performance. It feels like it is in timing and will not advance (correctly). I disconnected lead and grounding it, but distributor still advances on dampener tab when I advance throttle. This doesn't seem to be correct. There should be NO advance. My oil pressure and temperature switch triggers alarm but senders display normal temperature and oil pressure on gauges. My heat exchanger (radiator) cap permits water to seep out. Not a lot and it is intermittent. However, does the heat exchanger require a special cap? I just used a new Chevy V8 auto cap. Attached is heat exchange cap photo.
Double check that you are grounding the purple white wire before starting engine?

I think this is correct but I would need to double check a factory merc manual -https://www.justanswer.com/boat/9vkpv-set-timing-5-7-mercruiser-thunderbolt.html

another way around it is even with an issue going into base mode what total advance does it have at like 3000 rpm if you are up in the 28 or so degrees range that would likely not be an issue for down on power. You say it is advancing, usually when you see folks down on power it is isn't advancing beyond initial timing much

Would also verify firing order and cap rotor condition. What do plugs look like?

What engine and serial number are you working on ? That would make a slight diff in total advance as for example the 4.3 uses less total advance than a 5.7.
 

alldodge

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I disconnected lead and grounding it,
Maybe just your wording but the Pur/Wht wire should not be connected to anything prior to using it and grounding it

My oil pressure and temperature switch triggers alarm
Would like to know what motors your working on, serial number is best but at least type and year

The oil and temp switches are not connected to either one of the gauges. Look for the switches on thermostat housing and Teed with oil pressure sensor

If your have outdrives then this can also be the lube bottle. If V drives then check transmission temp switch

My heat exchanger (radiator) cap permits water to seep out. Not a lot and it is intermittent. However, does the heat exchanger require a special cap?
Nothing special but check to see if the cap has 2 rubber seals. One right under the cap (this keeps fluid from escaping and lets it go into the AF bottle) and the other on the bottom (seals AF inside the heat exchanger HE until pressure gets to high)

Also see if the there is no damage to the HE mounting where cap screws down tight
 

tank1949

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Maybe just your wording but the Pur/Wht wire should not be connected to anything prior to using it and grounding it


Would like to know what motors your working on, serial number is best but at least type and year

The oil and temp switches are not connected to either one of the gauges. Look for the switches on thermostat housing and Teed with oil pressure sensor

If your have outdrives then this can also be the lube bottle. If V drives then check transmission temp switch


Nothing special but check to see if the cap has 2 rubber seals. One right under the cap (this keeps fluid from escaping and lets it go into the AF bottle) and the other on the bottom (seals AF inside the heat exchanger HE until pressure gets to high)

Also see if the there is no damage to the HE mounting where cap screws down tight
Motors are 350 non vortex and non-roller cams. As for years, I don't have a clue. Former owner (since deceased I believe) machined these into Strokers. Before I put up boat 4 years ago, both motors ran great. I used distributor tool to pump/circulate oil before starting. Lube bottle wires are disconnected from alarm wires going to helm. I may reconnect after I get everything else running 100%. Temp and oil pressure switch are connected to help alarm. Both senders are not connected to alarms but are connected to their respective gauges. I am going to retrace wires one more time, just to be sure. The alarms going off suggest I have some sort of current feedback or bad alarm-thx
 

Scott06

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Motors are 350 non vortex and non-roller cams. As for years, I don't have a clue. Former owner (since deceased I believe) machined these into Strokers. Before I put up boat 4 years ago, both motors ran great. I used distributor tool to pump/circulate oil before starting. Lube bottle wires are disconnected from alarm wires going to helm. I may reconnect after I get everything else running 100%. Temp and oil pressure switch are connected to help alarm. Both senders are not connected to alarms but are connected to their respective gauges. I am going to retrace wires one more time, just to be sure. The alarms going off suggest I have some sort of current feedback or bad alarm-thx
to eliminate the alarm while working through just disconnect the temp switch and oil pressure switch. They don't have anything to do with timing or base mode
 

alldodge

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Is there a possibility they one of the motors is a TB4 ?
 

tank1949

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to eliminate the alarm while working through just disconnect the temp switch and oil pressure switch. They don't have anything to do with timing or base mode
that is how we determined the switches were not defective, or at least for now not causing alarm to sound. THX!
 

tank1949

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Is there a possibility they one of the motors is a TB4 ?
They both have knock sensors and modules. I will check to see if they have some other writing on them indicating they are not TB5-THX
 

Scott06

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They both have knock sensors and modules. I will check to see if they have some other writing on them indicating they are not TB5-THX
there was no knock sensor on TB4 and I don't think any of the aftermarket marine systems use knock sensors.

check your total advance if that is correct don't worry about the base timing for the moment as your issue of low power will be else where.

If its low would try to disconnect the knock sensor as the way merc does it the knock module needs to send a 9vdc signal to ignition module otherwise it goes into retard mode. Forget which wire it is that supplies to module
 
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