Ayuh,..... In neutral / at idle, the cable is adjusted to put slight pressure against the idle stop,....What is the dimension between the barrel and the throttle cable end on a Mercruiser 5.7 EFI? Is the dimension from the barrel hole to the hole in the cable end or some other feature on the end of the cable?
Ayuh,.... You just described it, so this thread will work,.....Thanks. I should probably post another thread that is more descriptive of the symptom. I am in the process of replacing my engine due "fire notching of the block and head which lead to a loss of compression on cylinders 3 & 5.
I followed the instructions with the remanufactured engine on how to break in the camshaft and changed the engine oil after that procedure.
I set the base timing to 8° and the issue I am having is when I throttle back down to neutral, the engine will idle around 600 RPM for a few seconds and then die. It will restart with a slight amount of throttle. All sensors are plugged in and I thought it might be the throttle cable adjustment but now I think it may be something else but I need to know what to look at next.
The boat is a 1997 model year and the original engine's serial no. was 0K007751 which matches the label on the electrical box cover and the tag on the original engine. It is not a Vortec motor.Would need to know more about the motor, happen to know the original serial number?
Being a EFI it should be a vortec motor with roller cam so the cam shaft would not need to be broke in like on a flat tappet cam.
How would I test the idle air control motor? It is strange that I did not have this issue before the engine swap.Agree, was right during change over. Serial number shows both roller and flat
Most likely your issue is with the IAC but might be a slight vacuum leak
There isn't a dimension for throttle cable, it's done by feel. As Bondo mentioned, adjust cable so it just fits in place, then remove and turn barrel out one more turn so it applies a slight bit of pressure holding TB closed
Thank you very much! I'll try that this evening. It's strange that it was OK before the swap. Everything has been fighting me on this project.Remove IAC, reconnect connector, turn key ON and see if the tip moves.
Inspect tip and port for crud. If it needs cleaning, don't use anything caustic like carb cleaner, soap and water is best
Remove IAC muffler (foam filter) and see if it needs cleaning
After that, that's about it, they either work or they don't
I have an old OBD-1 scan tool for automotive but I'm fairly sure the diagnostic connector is different between the marine and the GM automotive application.Without a scanner were guessing, but does look like a IAC issue.