This sucks! New problem.

[rboat99]

Well I changed out the reg/rect yesterday, and I did not have to pull the flywheel. However, I did have to remove the power pack and the terminal block, which I found out could be removed after I already had all of the wires off.<br /><br />I also tried to trace down my fuel problem so I had the air cover off and I found a small hose (think it was the primer hose) for one of the carbs cut at both ends. I cut off the jagged edges and still had enough hose to re-connect it.<br /><br />So today I took it out and it would not come out of the hole, it ran at around 3700 RPM. After running for a little while it slowly got up to about 4900 RPM but nowhere near the normal 5800 RPM. I stopped and anchored and did a quick plug check, since I had the plug wires off yesterday. Removing the wire from each plug one at a time (starting and stopping the engine between times) seemed to drop the idle from 1200 RPM to around 600-700 RPM.<br /><br />So what happened, did I hook something up wrong, or does this sound like a fuel problem?<br /><br />Does anyone have the wiring specs for the ignition components? I think I hooked it up right (wrote it down while disconnecting) but maybe I mixed something up.<br /><br />BTW, the reg/rect did not fix my charging problem, just as the new fuel pump didn't fix my fuel starvation problem.<br /><br />I'm batting a thousand, please help!

 

[Bass Runner]

Re: This sucks! New problem.

are all the coils tight on the stator? if you find one a little loose that could be your charging proplem. are you sure it starving for fuel rather than flooding, you might have a needle and seat bypassing fuel causeing your motor problem. just a thought.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: This sucks! New problem.

Wires leading from pack to coils... did you hook them up properly? Top coils = Orange/Blue wire.

 

[rboat99]

Re: This sucks! New problem.

I am pretty sure I have the wires hooked up properly, I unhooked a couple of them, but then decided not to remove the power pack completely.<br /><br />I will double check. Do you know how all of the orange wires from the pack to the terminal block go? Is it orange black to orange black and orange to orange. I'm trying to remember how I hooked it up...

 

[a.weeks]

Re: This sucks! New problem.

hey rboat i think my 1988 2.0 and your engine have been conspiring against us i have been working on mine, new stator,rectifier ,4 coils ,wires plugs and key switch and still wont idel the color codes should be on the back of the engine below the power pack at least mine are you are right on the color codes

 

[rboat99]

Re: This sucks! New problem.

Yeah, I just realized that. There is still a little left for interpretation. Here is the way I have mine wired starting from terminal 2 left to right facing forward looking at the back of the engine.<br /><br />3 Purple wires; skip; 2 Orange wires and a gray wire; 2 Orange-Black wires; 1 Gray wire from the reg/rect; Skip; two Yellow-Gray wires; two Yellow wires.<br /><br />BTW, what are the tan wires that go into the block on each side of the engine? I found that I had crimped the on the starboard side of the engine when I tightened down the power pack, maybe that is the culprit???

 

[Solittle]

Re: This sucks! New problem.

rboat - The OMC shop manual for you motor has the wiring diagram and diagnostics for both problems. They are still available or at least were a couple of years ago - I have a pair of 1.6L 1987 SeaDrives.

 

[rboat99]

Re: This sucks! New problem.

I ordered the shop manual last week, hopefully it will be here next week. I have clymer manual already but it doesn't give the wire diagram.

 

[rboat99]

Re: This sucks! New problem.

OK, so I found some wiring info in the back of the clymer manual and I took everything apart and checked all of the wiring tried moving some things around and soon found out I had everything connected properly. Funny thing is, on my engine the gray wire from the reg/rect is on a terminal by itself. The gray wire going to the tac was tied in with the orange/black wires. This was the only way the tac would work, and this is the way it was originally hooked up before I changed anything out.<br /><br />I put everything back together making sure everything was tight and nothing wires were crimped and I headed to the lake. As soon as I tried to WOT the engine jumped out of the hole but then dropped back. The engine would not go above 5000 RPM's. If I engaged the choke it would go higher for as long as I held in the choke, but never got over about 5500 RPM (normally 5800-6000 RPM).<br /><br />I took the gas cap off to make sure the engine was vented properly, but that didn't make a difference. I also tried a portable gas can and that didn't make a difference either.<br /><br />So could re-connecting that primer hose somehow cause this problem? Or maybe I crimped a main fuel line when I put the air cover back on. I am at a loss at this point.

 

[rboat99]

Re: This sucks! New problem.

Anybody got any suggestions/ideas?

 

[ob]

Re: This sucks! New problem.

Well after scanning back several pages I'm assuming your original problem was a loose primer hose??Really need to stay on one topic.<br /><br />Anyway..If you have to hold in the primer button(not choke) to have the engine respond with higher rpms,the carburetor/s are likely fouled .You need to dismantle them to clean out all of the fixed orifices and passages properly.Pay particular attention to the pickup tubes in the carburetor bowls.This is assuming that there are absolutely no leaks on any of the fuel hoses leading to of from the fuel pump to the carburetor inlets.

 

[rboat99]

Re: This sucks! New problem.

OK, I'll check it out. Sorry for getting off topic, I just wasn't sure if it was electrical or fuel related.<br /><br />Strange how this happed after the work I performed. It seems like carburetors would foul up over time, not all at once.<br /><br />I will try rebuilding/cleaning the carbs this weekend.