testing 6v house batteries

Mikeopsycho

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I have two 6 volt batteries connected in series for my house power that I believe are no longer taking/holding a full charge. Is there a way to test them before I spend money on a new set? Thanks in advance.
 

StarTed

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An indication that a battery is nearing the end of its life is that it begins corroding more. If you currently are fighting corrosion I'd seriously consider new batteries.

In this case you can replace one battery if the other is good. It's not wise to do that with parallel batteries.
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... A battery load tester is 'bout the only way to Test 'em,.....
 

Mikeopsycho

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Thanks guys, sounds like a load tester is in my near future :). A new tool is always a good thing.

No corrosion at all Star Ted. I did disconnect and wire brush all the connections, but I still don't make it through the night with any house power left by morning.

What happened last week is after two nights on anchor the house batteries were flat. Weighed anchor and cruised for a few hours with the battery switch on "all", as is my normal. Set the hook again, switched to #1 (house), and by morning batteries were flat. Switched selector to #2 (starter) and it seemed like the starters turned a little slower than normal. Weighed anchor, cruised on "all", re-set hook, on #1, dead batteries by AM, Switch to #2, this time the starter battery was definitely a bit low, hmmm...
Changed things up by cruising with switch on #2. Gauges showed battery charging fine. When draw dropped I switched to #1 and the gauges dropped way down, slowly rising after a couple hours. Still ran out of house power by morning, but the starter battery preformed as it should.

So at least one of the house batteries is done, me thinks, but I still like the load tester idea.
 

bruceb58

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Running the boat engine for 2 hours would normally not be enough to recharge a set of deep discharge batteries.

BTW, you don't want to run deep discharge batteries all the way until they are flat if you want them to last a long time. Only run them down to 50% discharge which is 12.0V
 
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Mikeopsycho

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Thanks Bruce, good info. Any guess-t-mate how long it should take to charge up the batteries with the engines? Maybe I need a small generator....

I know I used the terms "flat" and "dead" to describe my battery conditions, but I guess I was exaggerating a wee bit. I use a medical device at night that shuts itself off at low voltage to protect itself from damage, and it was shutting off before wake-up time. The fridge still ran, and so did the fresh water pump, although slower than usual, so there was still some juice left, but quite low. I'm thinking I should consider some kind of battery monitor might be something I need to consider too.

How long should I expect to get out of a set of 6 volt batteries? I bought this set in 2007.
 

bruceb58

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What model batteries are you using? What size alternator do you have? When you cruise for a couple hours, what RPM are you running at?

A battery monitor can just be a voltage gauge. You can install a voltage meter to the batteries and have it turn on with a push button when you want to test the voltage.

Consider getting an ACR so yoo don't have to play the battery switching game. This package contains a different switch to that might work better for you. Its basically 2 single pole switches. Battery #1 goes to your engine and Battery #2 goes to your house loads. It also lets you combine them if you are low on your start battery and need extra power from the house to start your engine.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7650/Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_120A
 
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spoilsofwar

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Out of curiosity, why run 6v batteries in series rather than 12v batteries in parallel (or just one large one)? Are they significantly cheaper? Surely weight can't be too big of a concern on a boat that size.
 

Mikeopsycho

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Bruce, I'll have a look at the batteries next time I'm at the boat. I remember they were very expensive, but I don't recall the model. The alternators are internal mercruiser 470 models X two. I usually putt around at about 1800 rpm, 7 knots.

I will look into a voltage gauge.

I like the ACR in the link, and I'll be putting it on my wish list for the future. Thanks for the link.

Spoilsofwar, I used to have two type 27-12 volt in parallel, but was unhappy with their performance. A marine mechanic suggested switching over to the two 6v in series, which worked very well till this year. Apparently the amount of reserve hours of amperage (or something like that) of the two 6v far exceeds what two 12v offers. (maybe someone like bruceb58 should step in here to explain this properly). The 6v batteries were more expensive than 12v. Weight is not really a factor for the old boat, having enough power available is.
 

bruceb58

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Out of curiosity, why run 6v batteries in series rather than 12v batteries in parallel (or just one large one)? Are they significantly cheaper? Surely weight can't be too big of a concern on a boat that size.
That's always a point of debate in the RV crowd. Typically though you get more AH/$$ with 2 6V batteries since there are a ton of them in the RV and golf cart industry. Both of those typically do series battery banks.

With 2 12V batteries in parallel, they should be matched perfectly or else your capacity is going to be limited to the lower battery.
 

bruceb58

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Here is an example of cost.

SCS225 Trojan 12V batteries are $161/each
T105 Trojan 6V are $131/each

The 6v batteries are 447 minutes @25A
The 12V batteries are 225 minutes @25A but since they are on parallel that gives you 450.

Net cost is $60 less going 6V route.

Total weight of either way is identical.

The plates in the 6V battery will be thicker than the same plate in the 12V battery so the battery should last longer.

If one of the 6V batteries failed prematurely for some reason, you could replace one and not the other and suffer no ill affect. You can't do that with the 12V in parallel
 
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bruceb58

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BTW...I am comparing true deep cycle batteries...not the Dual Purpose that are called "Deep Discharge" that you find at Costco or Walmart.
 

bruceb58

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The alternators are internal mercruiser 470 models X two. I usually putt around at about 1800 rpm, 7 knots.
There is half of your problem. Those alternators are less than 40A and not even putting out close to that at 1800RPM.

I would look into adding a kit that had an external alternator to at least one of the engines and have that just charge your house batteries.
 

spoilsofwar

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A series setup, all things in consideration equal, will weigh more and generally cost more, then a single battery of the required voltage and capacity, or a parallel setup of the required voltage and 1/2 required capacity.

I fly UAVs commercially, using lithium polymer batteries as fuel, and series battery arrangements are almost never seen except out of economy (ie, I already have 2x 3 cell batteries, and I need a 6 cell battery), because of the weight penalty involved. Series wiring does not increase capacity, just voltage. Parallel wiring batteries of the required end-state voltage increases capacity. I cannot reconcile how your mechanic can say (think) a series-wired 6v bank of "X" capacity would outperform a stand-alone 12v battery of the same "X" capacity or a parallel-wired bank of 12v batteries at 1/2 "X" capacity. I can see him recommending this based on cost; ie, two 6v batteries wired in series gets you to "X" at "Y" price, whereas one 12v battery gets you to "X" at "Z" (a higher $).

You also lose any redundancy as compared to parallel wiring, because one dead battery in a series configuration is as good as a dead bank altogether.

Obviously boats aren't aircraft, where weight is a prime consideration, but I'm still not tracking with what he said, or what your experience was. Were the 12v type 27's of the same capacity, chemistry, and make, as this 6v series bank you've been using? Were they used and cared for the same (charged and discharged?).

Not an inquisition, and you're free to ignore this post as it really doesnt have much to do with your original post at this point.
 

bruceb58

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A series setup, all things in consideration equal, will weigh more and generally cost more, then a single battery of the required voltage and capacity, or a parallel setup of the required voltage and 1/2 required capacity.
Read my post #14. I used real numbers form the Trojan Battery site and a battery site that had both batteries in stock.

Total capacity--Same
Total Weight--Same
Battery Chemistry--Same
Battery Manufacturer--Same

Total Cost--Series 6V was less.

In theory, 2 12Vs could provide you some measure of redundancy. The reality of the situation is that if one of the 12V cells die, you now have 2 discharged batteries before you even realize it.
 
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spoilsofwar

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Bruce, a lot of my post is answered by your posts (which were sent while I was composing mine). If the cost of "X" capacity is cheaper by wiring in series, then on a boat, thats the better deal and the way to go (assuming you have the space).

However the points of failure argument is six of one, half dozen the other. With series, you have twice as many batteries to go bad. With parallel, you have twice as many cells in each battery to go bad. Which is more common; cell failure, or battery as a whole failure? Assuming you need two 6v batteries to do the job you could with one 12v battery, you also have additional wiring and connections as points of failure.

Interesting thread, regardless of which side you're on ;)
 

bruceb58

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Problem is, if you want a house bank, you can't buy one 12V battery that has the same capacity as 2 6V batteries.

The RV, golf cart and solar industry uses 6V batteries.

Assuming you need two 6v batteries to do the job you could with one 12v battery, you also have additional wiring and connections as points of failure.
Problem is, that is not possible. You actually have more cabling for the parallel set of 12V vs 2 6V in Series.

Reliability favors the 6V series because of the bigger plates.
 
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