Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

dhud64

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I hate 'em. <br />Last year I finally replaced the carb on my old snowblower, and the thing ran as good as it did 20 years ago. <br />At the end of last season I put STABIL in the gas, ran for a while and stored carb dry. <br />I started it yesterday, started well but was leaking gas. It was dark, but I'm pretty sure the leak quit, I never could completely shut the choke off, and it ran just a tad rough too. <br />Did I store it wrong? Any ideas on how to prevent these headaches? (Besides moving to Arizona)
 

Xcusme

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Apr 21, 2003
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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

I don't think you went wrong with the Stabil and storing carb dry. You wont get all of the fuel outta' the carb and that's where I things start to go South. Over the years, buildup of gum and crud take their toll. As we tell the guys in the motor forums, a good cleaning, possibly a gasket kit, inspect the float height, replace the cork one's etc and blow out with compressed air. That should put it good for a long while.<br />If it's just 20 years old, has good compression, run some Seafoam thru it from time to time, that's about as much as most can folks do. There's nutt'n more frustrating then to have the old girl crap out on ya when your looking at 2 feet of snow down the driveway....
 

KM2

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Oct 15, 2003
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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

I'm not a expert by any means but I think your gaskets are drying out and causing the leak. I don't store dry I put stabil in the gas and use it a time or two to make sure the gas in the carb has stabil in it and store it away. Never a leak or problem. The seafoam is a good idea too. <br /><br />PS Also I buy the high octane gas for storage, from what have read on this site and other places gas loses octane over time.
 

dhud64

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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

Thanks for the input, she ran perfect again today blowing 10 inches of fresh snow! <br />Hmmmmm... Tecumseh :-(
 

Terry Olson

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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

I've stored my seasonal equipment a couple of differnt ways over the years. After some experimentation I prefer to stabilize the fuel with Seafaom (had problems with Stabil - but I'm sure it's a good product). I run the carb dry and drain the float bowl too. I fill the fuel tank to the very top and leave it. <br /><br />I don't think the problem is your carb or the fuel stabilizer you're using. It's most likely the fuel itself. Here in MN most of the year gasoline retailers have to sell oxygenated fuel. I'm no expert on fuel, but I understand that this gasoline is 20% alcohol, which tends to dry out rubber parts and gaskets throughout the fuel system. We can get non-oxy fuel part of the year although many stations don't bother to change back and forth. We can also get non-oxy fuel at limited locations for "off road use" according to the label on the pump. Relatively new equipment is designed to use this fuel without any problems, but older stuff isn't. <br /><br />I've found that replacing carbs on snowblowers, lawnmowers, and similar equipment is nearly as cheap as rebuilding them and I've had the same experience in their running like new with a new carb. I think the last carb I replaced on my mower cost me less than $30.oo while the rebuild kit was nearly $20.oo. <br /><br />It beats pulling the starter rope until you're in a frenzy although I find that it does afford me the opportunity to work on the subtleties of the fine art of profanity.
 

one more cast

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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

I just don't get it. I have the same snow blower I bought used when I was in my 20's and I'm 47 now. I pump the primer a few times and pull the rope a couple of times and away I go. When I'm done I put the thing in the garage. I change the oil and lube it once a year and fire it up once maybe twice in the summer. I do nothing else to it. I don't think I ever even changed the plug since I bought it. The same for my lawn mowers and one of them is a 1931 model.
 

KRS

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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

Never store carb dry, leave fuel valve on (so evaporating gas can be replaced with new gas from tank), and while it's running just shut it off, run it a few times a year and you'll be fine. But running it out of fuel will dry out the rubber and gaskets.
 

dhud64

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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

Originally posted by Terry Olson:<br /> I think the last carb I replaced on my mower cost me less than $30.oo while the rebuild kit was nearly $20.oo. <br /><br />It beats pulling the starter rope until you're in a frenzy although I find that it does afford me the opportunity to work on the subtleties of the fine art of profanity.
I agree. What tics me off is I just bought this carb and installed last year. I was hoping to get another 20+ years out of this one, LoL.
 

fseries

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Sep 18, 2005
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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

tecumsehs are great for winter but after storage and the quality over time for these carbs are horrible you just have to find somethin that works for you and stick with it and watch that you are not adjusting these because they are tricky sometimes
 

one more cast

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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

I just finished blowing my driveway (2 1/2 hours) and after my last post I figured the old John Deere would never run again. It was only used one time last winter (I used my plow truck)and it had a half tank of two year old gas. I topped it off with fresh gas and primed it several times and after about 8 pulls and more pumping of the primer it fired right up. Stunk like bad gas but after a few seconds was running like a top. I blew my Moms drive and then changed the oil and did my drive. I gotta tell you something else... I used to remove my riding mower battery every fall and store it in the basement for the winter. I would get maybe 3 years out of them. Now I just leave it in the tractor in the garage and my last one lasted about 8 years. I always say I'm going to buy some stabil but I'm afraid to try it.
 

ehenry

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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

i'm like OMC...just run your stuff once a month and you wont have any problems with it. Thats what I do. Even do it with my boat and all my stuff cranks and runs when i call on it. I do how ever have an old Craftsman chain saw that you can point at in the shop and it will bust right off and run but take it to the woods to use and it wont run to save its soul.
 

kenimpzoom

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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

Hey ef, I have that same *^%(&^%*& chainsaw.<br /><br />I love it when it starts up, runs great, put it near wood, then it dies. Repeat till madness ensues, causing you to slam it to the dirt. :mad: :mad: <br /><br />Ken
 

Newportme

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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

Craftsman chainsaws = Perfomance anxiety<br />I thought I was the only person with a chainsaw that was afraid of wood. The Huskvarna rancher 55 runs great though
 

JamesCoste

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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

Originally posted by KenImpZoom:<br /> Hey ef, I have that same *^%(&^%*& chainsaw.<br /><br />I love it when it starts up, runs great, put it near wood, then it dies. Repeat till madness ensues, causing you to slam it to the dirt. :mad: :mad: <br /><br />Ken
Ken,<br />I bought a used Stihl 029. It was last used 5 years prior to me buying it with fuel sitting in it. I rebuilt the carb and it would run great cutting "air". As soon as I put it on a log to cut, it would bog down and die. Then I remembered my buddy who sold it to me telling me that the last thing he cut was some railroad ties and that the chain "might" be dull. It was dull.<br /><br />Put a new, sharp chain on it and cutting wood is fun again. I thought I rebuilt the carb "wrong" or something. Nope, just real dull chain.
 

kenimpzoom

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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

I think chainsaws hate me. My brother and I threw a Crapsman chainsaw in the fire cause it wouldnt start.<br /><br />Ken
 

Mark42

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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

Originally posted by azfyrfyter63:<br /> Never store carb dry, leave fuel valve on (so evaporating gas can be replaced with new gas from tank), and while it's running just shut it off, run it a few times a year and you'll be fine. But running it out of fuel will dry out the rubber and gaskets.
I don't agree. My experience from working in lawn mower repair shops indicates that leaving the fuel line open while the machine is stored causes the buildup of sludge. As fuel evaporates from the carb, the solids are left behind. Continually replacing evaporated fuel causes a continual buildup of solids. I believe it is better to store the carb dry, or at least with the fuel line closed. New or rebuilt carbs will last a few years with no problems. Old carbs will leak when the fuel is turned on becasue the old rubber gasket has dried and cracked. Just buy a new cleanout kit and put in a new gasket and off you go.<br /><br />The amount of solids left from a cup of gas evaporating is nil. Run a gallon or so through there and the buildup will cause operating problems.
 

capedave

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Nov 30, 2005
Messages
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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

I have been running into the float level off these carbs being wayyyyy off to the point were the engine wont run for long or surge badly.<br />The seat is swelling, the proper level is below level to Tec. specs. Gas in sabilized is my method of storage, gas tanks have the plugs in the nozels and the vents closed when not being used. THE GAS JUST SUCKS!!!! But who do you send the bill to when your carb needs rebuilding when the fuel you are using is deteriorating the rubber element in the fuel system ????????<br /><br />14 years in the small engine repair <br /><br />There is a brand new 2 stroke on the back of my boat no valves for me>>>>>>>>>>>>>
 

eurolarva

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Jun 24, 2003
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Re: Tecumseh carbs ...*^#*!

A lot of tecumseh carbs have what I believe is called an itermediate relief valve in the idle circuit. When sludge builds up in this valve it makes the carb run like crap and is impossible to clean. When carb is stripped apart you should be able to shake it and hear a rattle of this valve. If not it is plugged and shot. Also when replacing the idle mixture screw and tightening till lightly seated must be done with carb in upright operating position. If carb is inverted when tightening this screw the intermediate can be damaged. Tecumseh motors are notorious for hunting and running lean because of this. The only fix is to replace the carb. My 8 year old 8HP snow thrower had this problem. Carb was rebuit 3 times before finally replacing it. 70 dollar carb to get 800 dollar snow thrower working right seemed worth it. I also agree with running carb dry. I have had the best luck with motors doing this.
 
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