tandem trailer question

rebars1

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I'm new to boating and I recently bought a 1971 18' tri-hull with a trailer. The tandem trailer seems a little big for the boat or the set up is not quite right. A few questions: 1.Does the 10% tongue weight rule apply to tandem trailers? 2. I think I need to adjust the position of the winch and bow roller for my boat. Should the bow eye be above or below the roller? Should the winch strap go over or under the roller?
 

JasonB

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Re: tandem trailer question

10%, yes, on most trailers. As for the roller/strap, I've had trailers bth ways so I think it depends on the trailer. I think most have roller over eye/strap under roller, but my newer tandem is just the opposite.
 

rebars1

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Re: tandem trailer question

Thank you. I suppose the roller over eye/strap under set up might help with the bow bounce also? Is it good idea to add a bow tie down strap I've read about in other posts?
 

Mark42

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Re: tandem trailer question

I just added a tie down to the bow eye and it eliminated all the bounce of the boat against the bow stop. Didn't even have to make it very tight. It worked for me!<br /><br />Mark
 

JasonB

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Re: tandem trailer question

I use a bow tie-down strap. You can get a nice one somewhere like Wal-Mart for $7. I would like to have a "Boat-Buckle" type auto retracting one, but they are expensive.
 

rebars1

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Re: tandem trailer question

I don't think I can move the boat forward to increase the tongue weight because I would not be able to lower the out drive all the way down (the stern alreadt sits 2" inside the end of the bunks and rear roller) Is there another way to shift the weight? Or should I put 200 lb of ballast on the tongue?
 

jtexas

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Re: tandem trailer question

My strap is a cable and my roller is a v-shaped hunk of rubber, and they are in a roller-low/strap-high configuration, opposite of yours. I think the bow eye is probably positioned such that the bow will ride high when being towed by another vessel; that most likely dictates whether it's higher or lower than the trailer bow-stop.<br /><br />You trailer with the outdrive down, rebars? Is that common for I/O? Don't you worry about your lower unit getting struck by debris or the pavement or something? I guess with 2 axles you don't lose much clearance when you have a blow-out?
 

Bondo

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Re: tandem trailer question

I don't think I can move the boat forward to increase the tongue weight because I would not be able to lower the out drive all the way down (the stern alreadt sits 2" inside the end of the bunks and rear roller) Is there another way to shift the weight? Or should I put 200 lb of ballast on the tongue? <br />
Look at your trailer Frame........<br />You'll see more sets of Holes.........<br />Unbolt,+ Slide the Axle Assembley Back to Balance your Load........<br />You might as well reposition the boat to where it's Supposed to be, Before you even Start...........<br />You can kill 2 birds with 1 stone............. ;)
 

rebars1

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Re: tandem trailer question

Clarifcation for jTexas: I trailer with the outdrive up, but store and maintain with it down.If I move the boat forward relative to the rear roller, the outdrive won't go all the way down to vertical.<br /><br />Bondo: The only parts that are ajustable are the position of the winch post (front or back movement) and the winch arm (up or down movement)on the post. Both are held in place with pairs of "U" bolts. My boat is 18'6" but I think the trailer is for a 21' or so.
 

Bondo

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Re: tandem trailer question

I don't think you're Looking Hard Enough........<br /><br />I've Never seen a production trailer.<br />that the Wheel Base Isn't Adjustable............<br /><br />The Axles Will slide up or down the frame........<br /><br />What Brand of trailer is it ??????????
 

rebars1

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Re: tandem trailer question

I looked again. Everything is welded in place...fenders, leaf spring pivots, frame. The axles are connected to the leaf springs via U bolts. The trailer is TI Trailers, Lake Havasu, AZ. It looks like the winch post was originally 12" closer to the tongue than now. A horizontal steel channel was added to position the post where it is now. I am convinced the trailer was originally made for a longer boat.
 

Bondo

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Re: tandem trailer question

Sorry to doubt you...............<br />TI sounds like a small custom builder.......<br /><br />Without seeing it,<br />Can you cut off any of the trailer, or bunks, that are Aft of the rear spring hangers ?????????<br /><br />Can you Remove the Front Axle, fenders, etc.......<br />This would also move the weight forward......<br />Your boat doesn't sound heavy enough to be a problem on a single axle trailer...........
 

rebars1

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Re: tandem trailer question

Bondo:<br />I have seen other boats like mine around the internet and they are on single axle trailers. I don't know the history about how mine ended up on this trailer (the boat is a 1971 Trisonic Ford302)<br /><br />I will try moving the boat forward to where 200lb or so is on the tongue, and see how much I would have to chop off the back of the trailer.<br /><br />Another route might be that I build a storage box near the front of the trailer and put three bags of concrete for ballast?<br /><br />Thank you for your time and input. Your knowledge and that of others in this forum have helped me tremendously while I'm on the vertical learning curve of this boat stuff! <br /><br />I'll let you know what I end up doing. But from it all I've learned that it is important to get a good amount of tongue weight onto the hitch for towing safety.
 
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