skydiveD30571
Lieutenant Junior Grade
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2012
- Messages
- 1,042
9/2006 Volvo 5.0 GL-H and SX-A outdrive.
I took it out last night to water test some idle adjustments I had made. It seemed to be running really well from idle to WOT for a couple hours. Idle was consistent at 600rpm with no surging.
We were cruising around pretty slow, about 2500rpm, and I looked down and saw the temp had risen to about 200deg. It has never gotten over 175 before, so I immediately shut it off and went to the compartment to investigate. When I first opened the hatch, I could hear a bubbling noise just like if you hold a can or water bottle under water and it fills with water. I knew I was taking on water but the bilge was completely empty. I stuck my head out and noticed the transom was much deeper than it has ever been. The swim platform usually sits off the water atleast a foot, and was now just a couple inches above.
I immediately raised the outdrive to see if it made a difference. When I stuck my head back in the engine compartment to listen for the noise, I noticed the cap for the hose flushing adapter came off. Well that explains my overheating issue, being that the impeller was now sucking air from there instead of water from the lower unit intake. I closed it and waited for the temp to naturally drop back down. I always keep an eye on oil/temp so I guessed it was running that way no more than 30 seconds or so, so after about 20 minutes of cool-down time I started it up and watched the temp very closely to make sure the impeller wasn't now shot. Temp rose to 170 and never moved again. Eventually the water I had taken on was released and the transom returned to its normal position.
For the rest of the day, it would idle perfectly after a choke start but after pulling a wakeboarder and returning to idle it would constantly surge (from about 200-600rpm) and would usually die unless some throttle was given.
Obviously this ordeal concerned me on many levels. It's not fun to feel your almost-new-to-you boat starting to sink while no water is actually visible. I got to thinking last night what could have caused this. Since the raw water pump system is air tight, if that flush adapter cap is open would it be essentially like opening a vent which then allows water to rush in through the raw water intake on the lower unit since a lot of that system is under the water line? Even then, it seems like it would require a lot of water to bring the transom that far down. Is it possible that any of the water could make it to the engine block? I'm wondering if the surging idle after pulling a load is a result of this, or if its just my usual idling issues getting worse and coincidentally happening at this time. I'm taking it to a mechanic today to get a general tune up and check the timing etc, is there anything I should specifically ask him to check after this happened?
As always, thanks everyone for your input. Being that it ran perfect afterwards (besides surging idle) I don't think it caused any damage, but I know better than to just assume and then have it bite me 10 times worse later.
I took it out last night to water test some idle adjustments I had made. It seemed to be running really well from idle to WOT for a couple hours. Idle was consistent at 600rpm with no surging.
We were cruising around pretty slow, about 2500rpm, and I looked down and saw the temp had risen to about 200deg. It has never gotten over 175 before, so I immediately shut it off and went to the compartment to investigate. When I first opened the hatch, I could hear a bubbling noise just like if you hold a can or water bottle under water and it fills with water. I knew I was taking on water but the bilge was completely empty. I stuck my head out and noticed the transom was much deeper than it has ever been. The swim platform usually sits off the water atleast a foot, and was now just a couple inches above.
I immediately raised the outdrive to see if it made a difference. When I stuck my head back in the engine compartment to listen for the noise, I noticed the cap for the hose flushing adapter came off. Well that explains my overheating issue, being that the impeller was now sucking air from there instead of water from the lower unit intake. I closed it and waited for the temp to naturally drop back down. I always keep an eye on oil/temp so I guessed it was running that way no more than 30 seconds or so, so after about 20 minutes of cool-down time I started it up and watched the temp very closely to make sure the impeller wasn't now shot. Temp rose to 170 and never moved again. Eventually the water I had taken on was released and the transom returned to its normal position.
For the rest of the day, it would idle perfectly after a choke start but after pulling a wakeboarder and returning to idle it would constantly surge (from about 200-600rpm) and would usually die unless some throttle was given.
Obviously this ordeal concerned me on many levels. It's not fun to feel your almost-new-to-you boat starting to sink while no water is actually visible. I got to thinking last night what could have caused this. Since the raw water pump system is air tight, if that flush adapter cap is open would it be essentially like opening a vent which then allows water to rush in through the raw water intake on the lower unit since a lot of that system is under the water line? Even then, it seems like it would require a lot of water to bring the transom that far down. Is it possible that any of the water could make it to the engine block? I'm wondering if the surging idle after pulling a load is a result of this, or if its just my usual idling issues getting worse and coincidentally happening at this time. I'm taking it to a mechanic today to get a general tune up and check the timing etc, is there anything I should specifically ask him to check after this happened?
As always, thanks everyone for your input. Being that it ran perfect afterwards (besides surging idle) I don't think it caused any damage, but I know better than to just assume and then have it bite me 10 times worse later.