Tackling a disc brake installation

[Calicoman]

I own a 2002 Load-Rite tandem axle boat trailer-3500 lb. capacity. The trailer has Tie down Engineering disc brakes on each wheel. It supports a 20' Crestliner Deep Vee Walleye tournament boat that I use chasing multi species here in the Chesapeake Bay. The boat/trailer has not caused me any problems thus far. However, on its first trip this year, the left rear trailer wheel began to overheat a short distance from home (5 miles) at which time I slowly traveled back home. Although the wheel bearing grease in that tire appeared liquified, approx. 20 pumps with the grease gun filled it back to capacity. I jacked the wheel up and found the wheel turned freely. A test run was made and found that no damage was done. Everything was cool to the touch. I suspect that the caliper might have been hanging up causing friction and overheating. Being that this is the ninth year of use on this trailer I'm considering switching over to Kodiac disc brakes. Cost is a concern and I'm considering doing the labor myself. I am 62 and can work with tools but have never attempted this. I will be under the trailer with boat on and lying on my back disassembling mostly rusted bolts. Safety is always number one concern but is this too much? What special tools should I have on hand and what is the step by step procedure?

 

[2300max]

Re: Tackling a disc brake installation

I own a 2002 Load-Rite tandem axle boat trailer-3500 lb. capacity. The trailer has Tie down Engineering disc brakes on each wheel. It supports a 20' Crestliner Deep Vee Walleye tournament boat that I use chasing multi species here in the Chesapeake Bay. The boat/trailer has not caused me any problems thus far. However, on its first trip this year, the left rear trailer wheel began to overheat a short distance from home (5 miles) at which time I slowly traveled back home. Although the wheel bearing grease in that tire appeared liquified, approx. 20 pumps with the grease gun filled it back to capacity. I jacked the wheel up and found the wheel turned freely. A test run was made and found that no damage was done. Everything was cool to the touch. I suspect that the caliper might have been hanging up causing friction and overheating. Being that this is the ninth year of use on this trailer I'm considering switching over to Kodiac disc brakes. Cost is a concern and I'm considering doing the labor myself. I am 62 and can work with tools but have never attempted this. I will be under the trailer with boat on and lying on my back disassembling mostly rusted bolts. Safety is always number one concern but is this too much? What special tools should I have on hand and what is the step by step procedure?

Brake repair isn't brain surgery but you have to ensure things are done right or there could be real problems!!! Not only damage to the boat/trailer also public safety. If you've changed brakes on your vehicles you can tackle your trailer brakes. Some basic tools and jacks/stands. They have some decent vid's on the tube that you can look at and if you have some buddies that are diy's you can probably tackle the job in a couple of hours.

 

[dockwrecker]

Re: Tackling a disc brake installation

If you can take a wheel off, you can install the Kodiaks. Not hard at all. If you're concerned about fighting rusty bolts, a shot of PB Blaster the night before will do the trick. It's this easy after you've got the boat jacked up on stands and the wheels off:

Remove the existing flex lines to the calipers.
Remove the caliper support bolts from the axle flange and pull off the old caliper.
Remove the wheel bearing retention nut and pull off the rotor.
Clean the spindle and remove the rear race. Polish the rear seal surface with emory cloth until bright.
Now all it involves is the same as any bearing replacement service.
Hand pack the new bearings.
Place the new rear bearing in the new rotor/hub assy.
Install the new rear seal in the kodiak disk.
Seat the new rear bearing race on the spindle. I take the old rear race and flip it around backwards so I have something to tap against to seat the new one. Make sure it seats firmly against the shoulder on the spindle.
Install the new caliper support bracket.
Slide the new rotor onto the spindle and the front bearing, thrust washer and nut. Tighten the nut snug then back it off 1/8-1/4 turn to the first availible position for the cotter pin that the rotor spins smoothly.
Place the new brake pads into the new caliper and installthe caliper to the new support bracket.
Reconnect the flexible brake line.
Rinse and repeat for the other side.
Pressure bleed the brakes with the handy dandy pump sprayer bleeder setup, starting with the caliper furthest down the line from the master. Open the bleeder until clear and bubble free fluid flows from the caliper. Repeat other side.
Using a large screwdriver or the breakaway arm, pump the master cylinder 4 or 5 times.
Check fluid level in the master.
You're done.
This is a two hour job with a 15 minute beer break tops. Piece of cake.

Special tools: None.
Tools needed:
Standard end wrenches and socket set
Needle nose pliers are handy for the cotter pin.
A punch is needed to tap the old bearing race off the spindle and install the new one.
Hammer
Locking pliers aka waterpump pliers
Bleeder pump:
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

 

[sk]

Re: Tackling a disc brake installation

etrailer.com has some great step by step instuctions