Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

nodumdrivers

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Jun 19, 2004
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Prob been talked about before, but didnt see anything. The 1972 omc 155hp v6 i have only has about 100 hours on it. It runs great now that i fixed that starter problem.

The boat is going to live out the rest of is life in Cabo san lucas.

The manual says SAE 30 oil. I want to put in 10w30 Mobil 1 in there cause i have a box of it in my garage - Can i? Figured it should be better than SAE 30.
 

bruceb58

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

i use Mobil 1 in my engine but I use the 15W50.

Did you get your ignition switch figured out?
 

cobra 3.0

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

10w30 isn't thick enough for the high heat you will be facing. SAE30 is better.
 

nodumdrivers

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

I havent even seen 15w50 synth. hmm, maybe ill look for it.

Yeah, it was the darn external regulator. It has the orginal alternator which is wired with an external regulator. I guess i fried it when i put the new alternator on - oops forgot to take off the +side wire off the battery and now that i think about it, i did see a spark which would have caused the external regulator to burn out.



bruceb58 said:
i use Mobil 1 in my engine but I use the 15W50.

Did you get your ignition switch figured out?
 

nodumdrivers

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

I guess im just curious as to the differences in oil . Is SAE 30 more of a 30 weight oil, or is it just formulated to withstand heat better?


cobra said:
10w30 isn't thick enough for the high heat you will be facing. SAE30 is better.
 

Don S

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

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paulie0735

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

The manual is recommending a SAE30, which is mono-grade oil with a high and low temperature viscosity grade of 30. The Mobil 1 product is multi-grade oil with a dual viscosity grade. 10 being its cold temperature grade (for the record the ‘W’ is there to signify winter) and 30 being its hot temperature grade.

SAE stands for; Society of Automotive Engineers and has absolutely nothing to do with the weight or grade of the oil, only that it meets the guidelines set down by that society.

Apart from Mobil 1 being a full synthetic the only……. Repeat ONLY difference between the 2 oils is the cold temp grade of the Mobil 1 is thinner than the straight 30 so any adverse effects will only be at startup, even than if your engine is getting on and worn to the point of knocking at startup until the oil pressure comes up than a thicker mono-grade oil is only making it quieter not giving it any more protection.

If you have a box of Mobil 1 10w-30 than absolutely yes you are perfectly safe to use it. It will perform perfectly, in fact the hotter it gets the ‘better’ it will protect your engine. I couldn’t justify the expense but if you have it already than use it, just make sure you change the filter while you’re at it.

Mobil 1 is significantly better than anything the OMC engineers could have hoped for back in 1972 and no I don’t work for Mobil. Good luck
 

ron7000

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

nodumdrivers said:
Prob been talked about before, but didnt see anything. The 1972 omc 155hp v6
The manual says SAE 30 oil.

oil information/recomendations from a 1972 manual is completely out of date. You cannot compare monograde versus multigrade oils from that era with those of today.

I'll try to explain best I can, from what I've read from reliable sources more or less, back in that era the recommendation of monograde oil (sae 30) over a mutigrade oil was probably because oil refining and processing methods weren't that great nor were oil additives. Engines that ran hot and for a long time on the same oil would break it down and that would lead to varnish, sludge, viscosity breakdown, wear, and engine failure. The multiviscosity oils like 10w-30 and 10w-40 were more prone to oxidation and viscosity breakdown because the additives in it were susceptible to breakdown under those conditions. Without going into great detail, additive key words off top of my head related to this are pour point depressents, viscosity index improvers, dispersants, antioxidants, anti-wear agents. With multiviscosity oils like 10w30, the additives in it are what gave it it's low temperature, and high temp, viscosity characteristics & performance but are also what would break down under unfavorable conditions and lead to oil failure. 10w-40 oils were more prone than 10w-30 due to breakdown, since the spread between the operating viscosity (30 vs 40) to the cold temp W (winter) performace viscosity required more additives. From this info it's comon sense that you wouldn't recommend a multiviscosity oil in a marine motor which you know runs under a heavy constant load all the time and runs in unfavorable conditions. Combine this with knowing a carburetored engine will most likely dilute the oil with fuel lowering the oil's viscosity (remembering multi-visc. oils will shear more easily) the best choice is a monograde oil without a lot of additives that can break down. From there it's a matter of environmental operating temperature as to whether you go with a mono 30 or mono 40, or 50. The higher viscosities will not flow when cold and depending on how cold ambient temp is on a cold start you may be doing more harm than good going with higher viscosities like SAE 50. If you can find castrol monograde oils, read the back of the bottle. I've seen SAE 30 say do not use below 32F and SAE 40 not below 60F. An SAE 30 fits the requirements of a marine motor best overall when you consider people use boats in temps < 60F. An SAE 40 would be a better choice if you're in a warm climate and would never see start up conditions less than ~ 60F. From there you would assess how hot the oil will get under operating conditions and select the proper operating viscosity (sae 30, 40, or 50...) Generally, the hotter it runs the higher the viscosity you'll want because the oil will thin as it gets hotter, and you need a minimum viscosity for a given operating temp so the oil will support and lubricate moving components. You should also take into consideration expected fuel dilution, and that generally requires selecting a higher visc. oil.

In addition to the additives, base oil processing and finishing of the 70's left a lot of impurities compared to today's standards. Things like wax and sulfur would cause the oil to break down and lubrication to fail. And blending base oils of different viscosities are how you first make a multigrade, so again from a 1970's standpoint it's not hard to see the rationale of starting with a good monograde base oil for a durable oil.

If you consider oils of today, base oil manufacturing/processing/finishing is much much better along with additive technology. No sulfur, wax, and other impurities in the base oil and the additives are less prone to breaking down. Some oil blenders get away with just blending high quality base oils with little to no additives that modify viscosity to get a desired miltigrade oil. Search on Group III base oil, versus traditional group I and II oils. hope that helps.
 

QC

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

LMAO @ Don S . . . Too funny. Still LOLing . . . Purrrfect (the sound of Don S's Emoticon with Synthetic)
 

cobra 3.0

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

Yeah I know. Here we go again...

Let me clarify. It's an old engine, probably a tired one being run in a very warm climate. From my experience in my 1986 3.0 Cobra (also old and maybe a little tired), uses virtually no oil with sae30 or 20W50's that I have used, but does use some with 10W30 trial I did. Whether it's actual oil burning or evaporation from use I can't honestly say.

All I know is I had similar experiences with a older car engines(1980's-1990's) running 5W30 instead of 10W30. The 10W30 required no oil in 5000kms(3000 miles) and the 5W30 did require a full litre to be added during it's use. Although both protect up to 30, the 10W30 is thicker. And the straight 30 is even thicker, regardless if the thermal protection at the hot end is the same as the 10W30. To me, thicker = less evaporation/consumption.

Is 10W30 going to kill your engine. NO, but there are much better choices out there for warm climate use in an old engine.
 

DHPMARINE

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

I've got a box of break in oil for Johnson/Evinrude 4 Stroke engines.

When I change the gearoil in my Alpha I drive can I use it or should I mix it first ?

With the cost/ $$$$ of your boat, and the cost/ $$$$ of labor at any shop .......

What exactly are you trying to save ? ?

Get the real oil.

DHP
 

Don S

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

I am assuming the only thing you know about oil is that you have a case of 10W30 Mobile I oil and want to get rid of it.
Well, since your OMC engine and manual are of 72 vintage, and OMC Sterndrive company went out of buisness about 10 years ago, I will show you a new service bulletin on oil recommendations from Mercruiser. Volvo specs are almost identical, but the Merc one is easy to locate and post.
So basically use what ever you want, but here is what is recommended by the top two.

NEW%20Merc%20Oil%20Recommendations.png


New%20Merc%20Oil%20Chart.png
 

Bondo

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

Ayuh,........

Any Oil is Better,....... Than No Oil at All.......
 

bruceb58

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Re: Synthetic oil in 72' omc?

Here is Volvo's recomendation. Note that they aren't hung up on the NMMA FC-W ratings and use identical engines that Mercruiser uses. Also note that 10W-30 is not recomended.

volvo_oil.jpg
 
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