Switching direction of plug in gas can

[Joolz]

Not sure if this is the proper forum for the question but since this gas tank feeds a Johnson, suppose I'm not that far off.
Can I switch the plug in the gas can around? If possible it'll make things a lot easier, given the new location I plan to keep the can at and how it is now further than before, therefore stretching the line to nearly its limit. Would be a lot easier if I could switch the direction of the plug on the can.

Looks easy enough to remove the 4 bolts but two possible issues: will the gasket be ruined? Will the level gauge still work?

 

[Vic.S]

You will have to be careful not to damage the gasket or be prepared to fit a new one.

The design of the level gauge may prevent you turning the assembly round. If has float on an arm then it probably will.

You don't say if this is on OMC tank and if so what motor.
If it is an OMC tank the parts catalogue will show details of the float etc.

You may be able to see the float through the filler.

A longer fuel hose might solve your problem

 

[Vic.S]

It looks like the tanks used on small motors ( 3 to 8hp) in the late 1990s

If so then I am fairly sure the float arm on the level gauge will prevent you turning it round

 

[interalian]

You will have to be careful not to damage the gasket or be prepared to fit a new one.

The design of the level gauge may prevent you turning the assembly round. If has float on an arm then it probably will.

You don't say if this is on OMC tank and if so what motor.
If it is an OMC tank the parts catalogue will show details of the float etc.

You may be able to see the float through the filler.

A longer fuel hose might solve your problem

+1 - splice a longer bit of hose on your fuel line

 

[Tim Frank]

The gauge arm config/shape will no allow that.

 

[Joolz]

Thanks, will not be attempting it then, seeing how the gasket may get ruined (don't have a spare handy for this). Replacing the fuel hose doesn't sound like a fun job as it runs the length of the boat. I created a spot for the gas can right in the front of the bow, where it's out of the way and allows for a bit of room for the anchor and even some additional leg room for my long legs, which are very cramped. About a foot further ahead than before. Guess I'll try to make it work as is. Unless I'm able to add a piece of hose to the existing hose? Is there a trick for doing this without it leaking at the joining point? An extra foot of hose would be ideal, but not if it means replacing the entire thing. Sorry for taking the lazy way around but with so many mods already taking my time, I'm looking for ways to save time where possible.

 

[oldboat1]

Use a straight fuel line connector. I use the plastic ones, but brass or whatever you find (hardware store or auto parts store) -- barbed connectors. Add the fuel piece extension at the tank or motor end -- connector for splice (1), then attach the other end to the existing fuel connector. Get a couple of stainless clamps for the extension. Better for operation if the tank ends up a little higher, as it might be in the bow -- use gravity flow. It's a long run for a small fuel pump, so will want to be sure the motor continues to operate well with the new tank location.

 

[interalian]

Usually, the primer bulb is close to the tank end. I'd just put a longer piece of hose between the bulb and the tank disconnect. Use stainless worm clamps. Rig the primer bulb so the output end is higher than the inlet. Done and done.

 

[oldboat1]

^^good. Or just buy new fuel hose to full length, and cut in the bulb where appropriate (prob. current distance from tank). Use existing connectors.

 

[Joolz]

Brilliant, the idea to replace the short line from the engine to the bulb. As a matter of fact I have a line and bulb/connectors that came with this used plastic can I bought a few days ago (the one in the pic, to replace the metal one that came with the boat). So yeah, doing so ought to give me the extra foot I need. Of course, the bulb will be right against the firewall where the line feeds inside the boat, hidden all the way to the bow. But that should work just fine. Free of charge too, since I already have the parts. Well, I don't have a climper to attach a stainless steel ring to the hose but will just use one of these that you tighten with a screwdriver.
Thanks for the ideas.