surge to electric brakes..coupler question

[1216bandit]

When going from surge to electric can the same coupler be used? My surge coupler is welded to the trailer frame.
Thanx....Dan

 

[oldjeep]

Sure, just find a way to bolt the 2 pieces together so it doesn't slop around.

 

[Saline Marina]

I would think so. After all it has to carry and control the same load, you are just not going to use the parallelogram mechanism which engages the master cylinder. I suppose you could block the linkage's travel if its an issue but I wouldn't think it uses much linear displacement, like 1/2 to 3/4".


I would use as much unbroken wire as you can in the brake circuit and use heat shrink butt splices or weatherpacks when making the brake and ground connections. Its a circuit you don't want going flaky on you!

 

[Scott Danforth]

pull the damper shock and replace with a fabricated dogbone.

 

[bruceb58]

I used 2 very large bolts after taking the guts(master cylinder and damper) out when I switched to electric/hydraulic.

 

[smokeonthewater]

You MUST make it rigid.... As mentioned above you can bolt it one way or another... I welded mine.... I figure that when 9 parts become one I have 8 fewer possible points of failure.

 

[1216bandit]

Thanx fella's....since my coupler is welded I was not sure what had to be done. The 5200 lb axle I am looking at comes with electric brakes with hydraulic drum being an option. Kinda sitting on the fence bout this as I am happy with the brake (surge) performance on my existiong 3500 lb axle, which is going to be replaced with the above mentioned heavier axle.

 

[bruceb58]

Then stay with the surge brakes. Are disc brakes an option?

 

[smokeonthewater]

you CAN also cut off the welded coupler and replace it.... pretty easy with an angle grinder and a cut off wheel...

IF the tongue then falls short an easy way to lengthen it is to use a weld OR bolt on folding tongue....

 

[UncleWillie]

Thanx fella's....since my coupler is welded I was not sure what had to be done. The 5200 lb axle I am looking at comes with electric brakes with hydraulic drum being an option. Kinda sitting on the fence bout this as I am happy with the brake (surge) performance on my existing 3500 lb axle, which is going to be replaced with the above mentioned heavier axle.

Going to Electric also means adding a Brake Controller, Wiring from the Controller to the Trailer Connector, and changing the 5 pin Connector to 7 pin. All that will add ~$200 in parts to the conversion. $500 if you pay someone else to do it.

 

[smokeonthewater]

actually many newer vehicles already have the wiring in place and a cheap controller can be bought for about $30.... even without existing wiring you can diy for under $50...

That said, the higher end brake controllers ARE really nice and MUCH less annoying to use.. The cheap ones use timers and ramp up brake force from the time the brake lights come on...

 

[bruceb58]

I have the Tekonsha P3 and very happy with it. They are around $140.

I switched to electric/hydraulic because I wanted to get rid of marginal drum brakes and go with disc on my heavy boat that gets used in salt water.

My pontoon boat still has its drum surge but will get switched to disc if they ever need replacing. Stay with surge.

If I was the OP and it is used in fresh water, I could see staying with drum but would likely just keep the surge system so that anyone can tow it. Problem with my big boat is that I have to make sure anyone else who tows it has to be set up for electric brakes.

 

[JASinIL2006]

^^^^ What he said, about the Tekonsha controller. They are nice and easy to use. I boat in freshwater and have electric drum brakes. They work great, and were easy to install.

 

[funk6294]

pull the damper shock and replace with a fabricated dogbone.

Exactly what I did with mine! I cut the ends off the dampers and welded them to some 1 inch tube I had laying around and then swapped those in and that fixed the coupler right up. If you don't want to weld then you could make up a bar(s) from some 1/4 inch flat stock by just drilling holes for the pins. Or depending on the coupler drilling and bolting could be an option as well.

 

[1216bandit]

thank you kindly for all the tips. I am going to check out the surge disc option. The axle they advertise comes with 12" electric brakes. If I go with electric I pretty much have to modify the existing coupler as my trailer is V nosed and the coupler is welded where the V shaped channels come together at the front.

 

[bruceb58]

If you go with disc, you will have to disable the residual valve in the master cylinder by either puncturing or removing it. Don't get Tie Down disc brakes.
https://www.championtrailers.com/content/remove-residual-valve-instructions.pdf

 

[1216bandit]

Pitty the poor fella that swaps from drum to disc and does not know about risidual valve....I could have been that guy had you not mentioned it! Lots of good stuff to help with the decision. Boy, I sure would be living in the dark ages without this computer!!!

 

[bruceb58]

If you go with disc brakes go with Kodiak or UFP. I have Kodiak.

http://www.easternmarine.com/kodiak-12-dacromet-trailer-disc-brake-assy-6-lug


You boat is salt water?

 

[1216bandit]

Nope.....great lakes

 

[bruceb58]

Then you can stick with drum brakes if you want to save money. With disc brakes, you will have to modify the brake lines on the axle as well since you need short rubber brake lines connecting to the disc calipers if you don't already have those.