surge brakes

[tritons493]

got a 2001 ez loader tandem axle with surge disc brakes. had trouble with the brakes staying applied and overheating everything. replaced the shock absorber in the actuator. this helped for a very short time. it's doing the same thing again. does anyone know of an electric actuator that i can mount to this master cylinder. any one else having my knid of troubles?

 

[Lark40]

Re: surge brakes

Here's the best one, but not cheap:<br /><br /> http://www.carlislebrake.com/hydrastar.pdf

 

[PAkev]

Re: surge brakes

I couldn't open the link from the previous post. Not sure if this is what Lark was referring to but there are electric actuators for surge brakes that enables you to adjust the amount of braking for your specific towing demands. If you don't already have one, you will need a brake controller installed in your tow vehicle and change your plug configuration on the trailer wiring harness. This setup is similar to electric brakes but still utilizes the mechanics of hydraulic braking. <br /><br />Kevin

 

[tritons493]

Re: surge brakes

thanks for the replies.<br />what i really wanted is an actuator that will activate the master cylinder that is on the trailer now. i haven't found one anywhere. this carlisle looks good, but like u say,costly.

 

[Boatist]

Re: surge brakes

Tritons<br />Problem you are having probably has nothing to do with the Actuator. First do you know if the brakes you have came with the trailer when new or converted to disc from drum brakes?<br /><br />My guess is you have Tie Down Enginering disc brakes. They are known to have the problem you are reporting. They redesigned the brakes a couple of time in the first five years they were out. The disc must use a actuator designed for disc brakes. The old drum brake actuator can be used if you take it apart and poke a hole in one valve in actuator.<br /><br />First step is for you to determine if problem is in the actuator or the calipers. Best way to do this is to jack up one wheel and see if wheel will turn. If it is froze up open both bleader valves on the caliper. If wheel frees up then can be actuator. If it stays froze up then likely the common problem in the Caliper. The calipers have nothing to retract the brake wheel cylinders in the caliper and after some use in salt water tend to not retract after being applied. Tie down redisigned the brake caliper, the newer ones are painted black. One of the thing they did was to use a square O RING inside the wheel cylinder which is suppose to cause the caliper to retract just a little when you take your foot off the brake and release the disc. From what I have herd still does not work very well. Many have left the Hub spindle nut a little looser than normal to allow the disc to change planes some and push the wheel clynder back. This nut should be finger tight and back one notch anyway.<br /><br /> http://www.championtrailers.com/TIEDOWN_INTRO.HTM <br /><br />Good Luck

 

[tritons493]

Re: surge brakes

the way it's raining here this morning..i'll check those wheel cylinders out this morning. it is a factory set up, so i don't think it's the hole in the valve u mentioned.<br />thanks, for your specific info

 

[jlshields]

Re: surge brakes

Triton, check to make sure you have a flexible brake line connecting each caliper to the rigid line. That caliper MUST be able to move.