Surge Brakes...

[golfer]

My new rig has surge brakes. Trailer is aluminum tandem bunk carrying 27' Fountain Fever...When I stop, the trailer gives me a pretty good kick, and same with stopping. Even if I lock up the truck, it does not lock the trailer tires...Any suggestions out there on wahts going on? Is there an easy way to adjust the brakes? Should I go see the money pit professional?

 

[Boatist]

Re: Surge Brakes...

Golfer<br />Some kick is normal and you do not want to lock up your trailer brakes. I would start by Jacking up a wheel and put a bar in the on the hitch and apply the brakes while some one turns the wheel. See if brakes are working. If you can move the cylinder very far then I would check fluid level then bleed the brakes. If it drum brakes like I had must adjust manually just like the old days. I have converted to Stainless Steel Disc and they are self adjusting. I remove all the fluid out of master cylinder at least every two years and refill just to make sure has no water in system. My disc brakes also have a reverse lockout solenoid that disables the brakes when backing up. If you have that make sure it is wired right. I had a friend who trailer had brake lockout solenoid wired to the brake lights. Who ever installed it thought the solenoid help apply the brakes.<br />With a 27 foot heavy boat you might want to add brakes to a second axel as well.

 

[golfer]

Re: Surge Brakes...

Thanks boatist, but, they are surge brakes...They are actuated by the weight of the boat pushing against the hitch...Putting something in the wheel and trying to turn will just turn, there is no brake action unless you are moving and the trailer senses the stop...They are not electric brakes that hook up to the truck, and brake when the truck brakes.

 

[blifsey]

Re: Surge Brakes...

Boatist is telling you to use a bar to engage the surge breaks like the trailer does while in tow. There was a good thread here a while back on the best way to engage surge brakes for bleeding them. Do a search. Also, surge brakes with discs (not drums) have an electric solenoid that prevent them from applying while backing up.

 

[roscoe]

Re: Surge Brakes...

Boatist, Great point on changing the brake fluid. Most people don't do this on their brake systems-auto or trailer. But most manufacturers recommend it. It is required maintenance for some. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, that means it absorbs water, that is why you are always supposed to use a new sealed bottle of fluid. And also why brake fluid is sold in small bottles.<br /><br />Main Entry: hy·gro·scop·ic <br />Pronunciation: "hI-gr&-'skä-pik<br />Function: adjective<br />1 : readily taking up and retaining moisture<br />2 : taken up and retained under some conditions of humidity and temperature

 

[Boatist]

Re: Surge Brakes...

Golfer<br />Every thing I said was for surge brakes. Not that hard to apply brakes. I use and old tire iron for changing tires and put it in ball area to apply mannualy. A big screw driver or some sort of prybar can be used to operate you trailer master cylinder. Would be hard to fix or check while braking on the back of your truck. Does take two people the way I do it. Myself and My Son.<br />Condition you gave is exactly what will happen if low on fluid or air in system. Also if the brakes way out of adjustment. Also one thing that happened my drum brakes was both wheel cylinders rusted or corroded to point could not get them to move but that was after about 15 years.<br />Good Luck.

 

[ICEMAN]

Re: Surge Brakes...

I've pulled many trailers with surge brakes. I have found that with no boat on the trailer, a trailer with brakes on only one axle usually will not lock up the tires. Even with trying to make them do it. Trailers with brakes on each axle can lock up the tires. With no boat on it, However you may not realize it. I have occassionally gotten a bouncing effect when slowing and applying the brake. I can tell you this, With a boat loaded on the trailer and in a panic stop, I'd rather have brakes on all axles.

 

[DJ]

Re: Surge Brakes...

golfer,<br /><br />All the suggestions thus far are right on.<br /><br />More than likely, your trialer brakes are way out of adjustment. That's why many prefer disc's.<br /><br />A slight "kick" is normal.<br /><br />You also do not want trailer brakes to lock. If they do, the trailer will trade places with the tow vehicle. That's why big rigs have delayued action braking on the trailers, with manual over ride.<br /><br />I would have done or do yourself, the following:<br /><br />1. Change brake fluid.<br /><br />2. Adjust brakes.<br /><br />3. Check actuation and balance adjustment on all four.

 

[BUSTED]

Re: Surge Brakes...

djohns19 has some good points. <br />one other thing to look at is the condition of the brakes themselves. rusted and leaking brakelines are bad as are the wheel cylinders.

 

[golfer]

Re: Surge Brakes...

It seems like every boat I have had is fine, but the trailer always has some sort of problem, lol...Rust on one, heating up of the hubs on another, surge brake problems on 2 of them, and dry rot on one....Sheesh! Some day when I am rich and famous, I will buy a new boat and a new trailer.