Stroker engine build

Returntrip

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What do you think about block deck height? should i zero deck it or leave the pistons in the jug a little & use thinner head gaskets? And what type of composition or material is good for gas marine engines???
If zero deck now, I wouldnt be able to shave anything off for a future engine rebuid? maybe not even worth holding on to a marine block that long, even if its freshwater cooled? I dont know this stuff, the marine rebuilds I do as to what some people refer to as "in chassis" I can rebuild an engine 2 or 3 times without even removing the block from the vessel. Most cases, if properly maintained, "The hard structure" engine block will outlast the life of the boat.
 

Scott Danforth

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What do you think about block deck height? should i zero deck it or leave the pistons in the jug a little & use thinner head gaskets? And what type of composition or material is good for gas marine engines???
if youre starting with a used block and head
get the head job done first. this determines if you have to skin the heads and how much deck you need
with stock vortec heads, change from pressed in rocker studs to threaded and have the spring pockets and stem seals modded to be able to run higher lift

bake and blast the block
check for cracks and core shifts
clearance the pan rail for the new crank/rod clearance
line hone the mains
deck the block to true it up and set your quench height. I use the MLS head gaskets. (felpro or cometic)
rough bore to clean up
then measure everything and order the pistons with the correct compression height
once the pistons are in, final hone. remember, marine gets an extra .001 of clearance over street.
weigh the pistons, rods, bearings, etc. - use this to get the crank balanced
get the crank balanced
plasti-gage the bearings
gap file the rings
clean everything and assemble

if you are starting with a new block and heads
start with pre-moded vortec heads or change from pressed in rocker studs to threaded and have the spring pockets and stem seals modded to be able to run higher lift

start with a pre-moded block or clearance the pan rail for the new crank/rod clearance
check the deck height
order stock bore pistons with the correct compression height
once the pistons are in, final hone. remember, marine gets an extra .001 of clearance over street.
weigh the pistons, rods, bearings, etc. - use this to get the crank balanced
get the crank balanced
plasti-gage the bearings
gap file the rings
clean everything and assemble
 

Returntrip

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Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
29
if youre starting with a used block and head
get the head job done first. this determines if you have to skin the heads and how much deck you need
with stock vortec heads, change from pressed in rocker studs to threaded and have the spring pockets and stem seals modded to be able to run higher lift

bake and blast the block
check for cracks and core shifts
clearance the pan rail for the new crank/rod clearance
line hone the mains
deck the block to true it up and set your quench height. I use the MLS head gaskets. (felpro or cometic)
rough bore to clean up
then measure everything and order the pistons with the correct compression height
once the pistons are in, final hone. remember, marine gets an extra .001 of clearance over street.
weigh the pistons, rods, bearings, etc. - use this to get the crank balanced
get the crank balanced
plasti-gage the bearings
gap file the rings
clean everything and assemble

if you are starting with a new block and heads
start with pre-moded vortec heads or change from pressed in rocker studs to threaded and have the spring pockets and stem seals modded to be able to run higher lift

start with a pre-moded block or clearance the pan rail for the new crank/rod clearance
check the deck height
order stock bore pistons with the correct compression height
once the pistons are in, final hone. remember, marine gets an extra .001 of clearance over street.
weigh the pistons, rods, bearings, etc. - use this to get the crank balanced
get the crank balanced
plasti-gage the bearings
gap file the rings
clean everything and assemble
thanks for all that. Ive had the block bake blasted, magged & sonic tested. Magged the crank,Then turned mains down .010. Ive done all the oil porting & clearance work for crank myself. I made a jig myself & balanced the large & small ends of the rods, rings, pins & bearings. Opted out of the Bowtie performance Vortecs & went with new AFR 195's with inconnel exhaust valves. I have my own bore dial indicators and micrometers & can check clearances, but will also check with plasti-gage if you think thats adviced (never hurts to check twice).
I understand decking the block to make it True, but dont understand if its ok to leave the pistons in the hole slightly & still be able to achieve a proper quench. I can get a .040 either way with head gasket thickness but which is better, having the pistons flush by decking all the way or leaving pistons slightly in the hole? for possibly re-decking in the future??
I didnt know about the extra .001 on the clearance, I appreciate that. I was going extra anyways because of the forged pistons & now will add even more with the hone. It is a low mileage used block that will be getting bored .030 with all forged internals.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Messages
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I understand decking the block to make it True, but dont understand if its ok to leave the pistons in the hole slightly & still be able to achieve a proper quench. I can get a .040 either way with head gasket thickness but which is better, having the pistons flush by decking all the way or leaving pistons slightly in the hole? for possibly re-decking in the future??

up to you

when I did my BBC, I left the slugs in the hole a bit and ordered a set of pistons with a slightly taller compression height to accomodate. that allows me the chance to rebuild one more time. however who am I kidding, when I blow this motor, going 540 next......
 

Returntrip

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Messages
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Yeah, I always had big blocks in my Super Sports, squeezing the kind of torque & power out of a small block is a fine line balancing act. I already had so many sbc components I stuck with them. Bigger is Better!
 

Returntrip

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up to you

when I did my BBC, I left the slugs in the hole a bit and ordered a set of pistons with a slightly taller compression height to accomodate. that allows me the chance to rebuild one more time. however who am I kidding, when I blow this motor, going 540 next......
 

Returntrip

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Messages
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Could you tell me if engine oil coolers are use on gasoline marine engines? And if so can you give me an idea of what size & type. I know ive seen P.S. coolers & fuel coolers. My lack of gas marine experience is showing...I assume if there is one, it would be in-line on the raw water intake side?
 

Bondo

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Could you tell me if engine oil coolers are use on gasoline marine engines? And if so can you give me an idea of what size & type. I know ive seen P.S. coolers & fuel coolers. My lack of gas marine experience is showing...I assume if there is one, it would be in-line on the raw water intake side?
Ayuh,.... Merc uses 'em on the BBCs, it's combined with the P/S cooler,....
 
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