Strange Tach Problem

Boater31

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 18, 2017
Messages
129
Hello everyone,

Thanks to everyone's help here I converted my 4.3 1 piece manifolds to 2 piece. I even replaced the shutters since I was in there. I ran the boat on muffs today for the first time and appears no more water was entering the oil. Before even after a 10 minute run on muffs I would start seeing the dip stick turn milky as well as the level start to rise. Now it doesn't seem to change at all as you would guess. I would like to get it on the water and test for sure but all the ramps here are closed for high water.

As a side note the starboard riser kept getting hotter then the port, I hear that is kinda what happen's on muff. When it was getting to hot to touch I shut it down. Could I have already done damage to the shutter on that side, my assumption would be no do to the short duration.

Now for the real question, I changed the oil before I ran it so needed to prime oil filter. as it was cranking and building the oil pressure for the fuel pump, the tach would keep climbing. It was acting kinda like a cylinder compression test gauge moving up in jerks as it was cranking. When the engine fired it was showing around 2500 rpm. I know the engine was at idle. I advance to a high idle and the tack responded but starting at 2500. I looked at the wires on the coil and look good. I tried three runs and it acted the same every time. When the ignition is on without the engine it goes to 0. As soon as the engine fires it goes to 2500 and responds normal above that. I can tell by the sound that it is no where near that speed and other then that it runs great.

Did my tach just kick the dust right at this moment or is there something else causing this. If it was pressure based I would say there is a air bubble based on the symptoms but as far as I know that can't be it.

Thanks again for everyone's help.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
41,131
Don't see any issue with the manifold at this time

The tach may be going bad, it just counts pulses from the coil.
 

Boater31

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 18, 2017
Messages
129
Thanks, I didn't think I could damage a shutter in the short time, even with the little water flowing in that side.

Is there something I can check on the tach.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
41,131
Thanks, I didn't think I could damage a shutter in the short time, even with the little water flowing in that side.

Is there something I can check on the tach.

Can check it with a hand held and compare readings
 

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
Check the back of the Tach and make sure the switch is set correctly for 6 cylinders? Otherwise try a different tach.
 

Boater31

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 18, 2017
Messages
129
It worked. I moved the selector back and forth. Started it up and it worked. Thank you.
 

TyeeMan

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
849
For what it's worth I've had kind of the same type of problem in the last 4 boats I've owned. All Lunds (likely not a contributing factor) 2 including the present are/were I.Os, one was an outboard with an after market tack.
I'd fire it up and it would idle at 2500, 3500, maybe higher. I rap to the face of the tach with a knuckle usually brought it back in line.

That said, I'm definitely going to try your trick of moving the selector back and forth. My knuckle is getting sore.

Glad somebody else is having this dumb little problem.
 
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