Still working on my 1975 60hp Chrysler...

[nathan104]

Got this thing a few weeks back. It would start and idle but would only run for maybe 10-15 seconds and then jerk and die. So, figured the carbs needed cleaning as it sat for several years. Im not very mechanical but am going to try doing all this myself.

Today got out there and decided to try to help it a little while waiting for my carb kits to get here next week. So, I took the breather box off and took the bowls off both carbs. They both had gunk in them. I used Berrymans carb cleaner and sprayed it up into the carb while it was still on the motor with the bowl off to try and clean what I could. I did this to both carbs. Put the bowls back on and the breather back on. Thinking it would run a little better. Now, I cant get it to run at all..GRRRR.... It will turn over and bubble a little. I reved it up a bit and did get it to idle high for about 20 seconds before it dies and now its will just grumble a little every once and awhile while turning over. Not sure what I did. Hopefully nothing too bad.

I did go buy a compression gauge today and the compression on both cylinders was 150. I know its good that they are the same but not sure if its too high or what. Like I said, Im not very mechanical.

So, I guess now I must wait for my carb kits to completely rebuild the carbs and replace the water pump.

I just hate spending a day working on something and it end up in worse shape than when you started. Very discouraging.

 

[DarkeMaster]

Re: Still working on my 1975 60hp Chrysler...

Hey Nathan,

I know how you feel...Keep at her though. If the Cylinders have 150/150 then you're good to go on the powerhead side of things. Have you checked the plugs to make sure that they are not fouled? Also check to make sure it is not a fuel problem in that your inline fuel filter might need a change. You only need three things in the right conditions. Fuel, Spark and compression....

Cleaning and rebuilding the carbs is really simple and should be done every season for optimal performance. If you have any mechanical apptitude as it appears you do, you will get through it well enough. BE PATIENT and don't hurry. Have a good manual (specifically for YOUR motor) to answer most of your questions. The most attention needs to be paid to the float and the needle valve. Proper adjustment here is crucial and the information for how to adjust them is pretty readily available.

I can tell you from my own experience that seeing that lifeless motor come to life and run. and knowing you did it all yourself will bring you the kind of satisfaction and pride that money cannot buy...

I have two Chrysler 55's that I got for $200.00 from two different places. Put them together to make one good motor and now I have a running thousand dollar motor for $300 ($100 in parts). You have to think of these things as investments. You will get out what you put in if you are wise about knowing when it has become a money pit and time to stop...

 

[nathan104]

Re: Still working on my 1975 60hp Chrysler...

Ok, I fugured out what I did. There were two screws I loosened on the carb when taking the breather off that I shouldnt have touched. They were the needle valve screws. So, I was trying to start it with those out of whack. I went out there and tightened them all the way down and experimented a half turn at a time. Finally, got it to run! I had to keep a little bit of throttle pushed for it to idle because if I took it back to neutral it would die, so I know they need a little bit more adjusting. But, it actually ran the best it has since I got it. I let it run for about 1 minute and actually had to turn it off with the key instead of it jerking and dying. So, I did some good cleaning them as it ran smooth. I just need to get the needle valves readjusted perfect.

But, you know what they say, one step forward two steps back. I went to turn off the hose and saw that lower unit oil was leaking. This just started. Not sure why as I didnt have it in gear or anything. It was seeping from the flat piece of the lower unit above the propellor at the seam that runs the length of the lower unit. Im guessing this is some type of seal I have blown. Hopefully not too big of a deal but Im not sure. I was going to be dropping the lower unit anyways to change out the impeller. This free motor sure is going to end up costing a lot of money, haha.

EDIT- by the way, is there a set amount of turns the needle valves should be turned from full seat or is it just trial and error? Thanks.

 

[nathan104]

Re: Still working on my 1975 60hp Chrysler...

Anyone know what would cause the lower unit oil to leak out where it is? Thanks.

 

[nathan104]

Re: Still working on my 1975 60hp Chrysler...

Took some pictures to show exactly where it is coming from.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: Still working on my 1975 60hp Chrysler...

Smell the oil first and verify it smells like lower unit oil instead of gas and oil mix. With you attempting to start the motor with no mixture screw in you may have pumped a lot of gas into the motor. Start with the screw about 1 1/8 turn out from lightly seated. With a good idle and in forward gear adjust clock wise till motor starts to race. Go the other way till motor starts to stumble then adjust it half way between both positions.

 

[nathan104]

Re: Still working on my 1975 60hp Chrysler...

Thanks for the advice. I just automatically assumed it was lower unit oil but, I did JUST replace the lower unit oil and thought what was coming out looked awefully dark. If it ends up just being oil/fuel and Im sure broke down carbon from me spraying the carbs on the motor, would it be fine with it coming out where it is?

As for adjusting the carbs, I will give it a try. I have it where it will idle with just a little throttle on it now. But, Ive been shutting down and adjusting. I guess doing it while its running would be faster and a better method. Ill give it a shot tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: Still working on my 1975 60hp Chrysler...

If you really tightened down those mixture adjustment screws you may have damaged the tips. Pull them out and look at them with a magnifying glass. the tips should be smooth and round. Clymer shows a couple of really good examples of damaged tips. Most can be lightly sanded especially if they have slight nicks in them.

Late 60 and early 70 chryslers were notorious for draining excessive gas through the puddle draining system to the motor leg and then they drip down into the lake. Lower unit oil is one of the foulest smelling things that Man invented. If you take a whiff of that stuff coming off your lower unit there will be no mistaking wheather it is lower unit oil or gas. I am not sure if your puddle valves recirulate the gas for reburn or dump in the lake. If it dumps in the lake like mine did I drilled a small hole in the lower cowl and disconnected the drain going into the kingpin and extended it out the back of the motor via the hole I drilled and placed a small plastic bottle to catch it. I no longer trail gas on the lake and I think my motor actually runs better because there is less back pressure on the hose.

 

[nathan104]

Re: Still working on my 1975 60hp Chrysler...

I did not tighten the screws down really tight. Luckily that was something my dad mentioned to me or I would have.

I didnt get a chance to work on it any today because of rain.

On a side note, does anyone know if this motor is equipped with a high temp alarm buzzer? If so, where would it be located and would it be possible to test it?