Still NO spark

[Schnidly]

Dear Forum,

I initially checked my stator on my 1988 90hp Mercury outboard because I had NO spark. The stator checked bad between the red and blue wire on the switch box. However each wire checked OK to ground. The two yellow wires for the charging/rectifier checked OK also. I replaced the stator and expected to fire it up and still NO spark as checked with a spark tester on each of the three cylinders. When I initially tried to start the motor I hear one small fire, but then nothing. Thats when I decided to check spark on each cylinder and found NOTHING again. I removed the kill wires from the switch box, but still NO spark. The rectifier checked just fine so now Im lost. The trigger checked out, ohmed just fine, each of the three wires from the trigger to the switchbox. My question is how can I check the switchbox? Can I use and analog meter, I have a simpson 260 analog and I also have a digital meter.

Thanks and your help would be great!!!

 

[Dave1027]

Re: Still NO spark

Check the CDIelectronics website for troubleshooting instructions.

 

[Schnidly]

Re: Still NO spark

I checked with a meter that has a peak read setting on it, with the meter to read peak DC volts I checked the + coil side to the - coil on each of the three coils. On the bottom coil I had a peak DC voltage of 315 volts on the coil from the switch box, the top two coils were high at over 500 vdc. Does this mean the switchbox is bad? How does one check out the voltages on the switchbox? I mean from the stator, and the trigger where they connect to the switchbox?

 

[Schnidly]

Re: Still NO spark

Also, forgot to mention not sure if this matters but I was getting 13.5 volts out of my rectifier to the battery so I assume the rectifier is good, just another tidbit of information. I am concerned about the high readings on each coil, as stated, I placed the meter across the + switchbox lead on the coil itself and the - on the coil, I did this on each of the 3 coils.

 

[Charlie61]

Re: Still NO spark

if you are getting re3ading from th switch box to coil the switch box is likly ok that would also mean you are or could be getting spark, you can not read the output of a coil with a normal voltage meter. something is amiss in your wiring check all your wires again think you will fine something there check all gound wires sometimes if easy to miss something small

 

[JDusza]

Re: Still NO spark

You have 300+ volts going into each coil and no spark on each spark plug?
What are you using to measure with?
An digital rms peak hold will not do it. Signal's too fast. You need a DVA (direct voltage adapter) to capture and store the pulses from the stator in a capacitor to measure it properly. You'll still set your meter to read in the 400 volt region. If you're using a DVA and have 300+ volts to each coil, they should fire. It's not likely all three failed at the same time.

So, ....

Are you sure your test equipment is grounded properly? How are you checking spark? Use an air gap spark tester and look for spark to jump 3/8" gap.

J

 

[JDusza]

Re: Still NO spark

CDI Electronics website will have the troubleshooting guide for this.
CDIelectronics.com
Support
CDI Troubleshooting Guide
or
Mercury DVA File
They are very good.
J

 

[Schnidly]

Re: Still NO spark

OK, after replacing the stator and failing to have spark and NOT giving up I tried starting it last night and shazaaaaam it popped right off!!! WHY? What did I do, I have NO idea!!! I went out tonight to just double check and it popped right off, no hesitation on it starting, it fired right off!!!! I checked spark on each cylinder and each one had plenty of spark. Can I assume the switchbox, and coils are ok??? I just spent a good amount of money on a new stator and if the switchbox is beginning to fail will this fry my new stator??? Right now everything is working as it should. Did I mention a couple weeks ago when my headaches began with a bad starter solenoid, replaced now, and my tach not working is when I had the majority of my troubles with no spark. My tach now works just fine as well as my motor firing right up now, makes no sense to me????? Maybe it will make sense to some of you here on this forum.

 

[Charlie61]

Re: Still NO spark

Will it sound like your getting started now . You need to check your wiring again something is not making contrace it may be your ingition switch , it's something small check all your grounds it in the wires!

OK, after replacing the stator and failing to have spark and NOT giving up I tried starting it last night and shazaaaaam it popped right off!!! WHY? What did I do, I have NO idea!!! I went out tonight to just double check and it popped right off, no hesitation on it starting, it fired right off!!!! I checked spark on each cylinder and each one had plenty of spark. Can I assume the switchbox, and coils are ok??? I just spent a good amount of money on a new stator and if the switchbox is beginning to fail will this fry my new stator??? Right now everything is working as it should. Did I mention a couple weeks ago when my headaches began with a bad starter solenoid, replaced now, and my tach not working is when I had the majority of my troubles with no spark. My tach now works just fine as well as my motor firing right up now, makes no sense to me????? Maybe it will make sense to some of you here on this forum.

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Still NO spark

Clean both ends of the battery cables and the starter motor cable.

Cranking speed is everything, a minimum of 300 RPM is needed for the stator to generate sufficient voltage and current for the ignition system to function.

A poor cable connection, dirty brushes in the starter, or any combination conspire to reduce cranking speed. This can occur over time such that you never notice that the motor isn't cranking over smartly.

Your old stator may be fine. I would toss it out yet.