Still getting water in outdrive oil!

db21

Seaman Apprentice
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Mar 26, 2012
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Have an '03 Merc 3.0l Alpha one that keeps getting oil in outdrive. Started last season when I had the bellows replaced. I took back and they replaced the seals. Still getting water in, so I took back, they pressure tested and realized they missed a seal replaced and still water getting in. They then vacuum tested found a leak and replaced the seals at the end of the season. This season it still let water in, so they took it apart and found the drive shaft was worn around the water pump. THey replaced that and the seals and figured they had it licked, but still water getting in.

I'm thinking the worn shaft was a effect of water in the outdrive and not the cause. The shop is not sure what else they can do. Note the water is getting in, oil is NOT leaking out.

Would love some ideas as the shop guys are not really sure what more they can do.

(BTW, the bellow are holding water, not getting any water in the boat and have new gaskets everywhere too.)

tks
 

Bt Doctur

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Aug 29, 2004
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Being a gen II drive there`s not much to reseall.A area overlooked are the drain and vent plugs. If there the hard yellow or blue ones then change them out for the fiber ones found in the sierra water pump kits not the ones in the mercruiser kits
 

db21

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Yeah I don't think that is the issue. Those gaskets have been checked and rechecked.
 

Bt Doctur

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the gen II has prop shaft seals, lower driveshaft carrier seal ,shift shaft seal, 2 seals in the upper unit for the driveshaft, carrier seal in the upper unit.
The speedo port is in the same plastic housing as the shift shaft, could be a crack in the plastic housing forcing water in
 
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Rick Stephens

Admiral
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Aug 13, 2013
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I think I would be building my own pressure tester and doing my own testing. That's me though and I like working on it.

There are only the 5 seals and the two plugs, unless one of the housings are cracked. Housings can be cracked just by virtue of those little tiny drain holes in the side of the drive being plugged up and sitting in a freeze. Years ago I dumped my last outdrive in a water trough and pressure tested it to find my last leak.
 
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PeterB26

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 16, 2013
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95
Have a look at the upper shift shaft seals in the bell housing. If these fail they let water into the u-joint bellows cavity and from there through the front seal of the drive shaft into the leg. No matter how many times you pressure test the outdrive you will never find this leak, yet they are rarely mentioned as a critical service item.
 

db21

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Mar 26, 2012
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I did just have the bellows done, so would I just look for cracks in the shift shaft seal? I've looked before and it seems ok. BTW, how would water leak in if oil is underpressure from the resevoir pushing water out?
 

PeterB26

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The shift shaft seal I am speaking of is not the one in the outdive, but rather the one in the bell housing.
The "Upper Shift Shaft" vs. "The Lower Shfit Shaft" ... though that one could leak as well but would show up on a pressure test.

Take the leg off: look into the bell housing: look into the exhaust cavity: there is a shaft vertically through this cavity. The top of it has a lever with a bearing that is engaged with your sift cable end.

Now: the exhaust cavity is flooded to seawater. the lower end of this shaft just has a non-water tight bushing, The top goes into the u-joint bellows cavity, which has to be watertight. At the top of the exhaust cavity where this shaft goes into the u-joint cavity there are twin seals. These must be watertight.

The problem is that after they are installed the never ever again get greased. So eventually they fail unless attented to. But no manual tells you to attend to them. No reseal kit includes them. No factory mechanic says "These suckers are crititcal seals."

They fail after a few years. The shaft surface finishes lately are sh**t. Ther is no way to add grease to these seals unless you take out the shift shaft and service it.

Usually you take out the shift shaft to replace the exhaust bellows. The Merc exhaust bellows tool requires this. In the course of that you probably replace or at least service these seals, but it doesn't say to do so anywhere, and if you can get the exhaust bellows back on without taking out the shift shaft, or if you use the exhaust tube instead so you don' t need to use the Merc tool, you might overlook this seal.

Now the top of the shift shaft has a lever on it that is set with a special sort of screw. this screw is made fast with red Loctite, which requires heating it to 500 deg. F to remove without destroying it. BUT heating it to 500 deg cooks the seals and the plastic washer under it.... soooo....

If you need to service these seals and it has never been done you will pooch the seals and the plastic washer and the special screw in the process. New parts in hand are in order before you start. If a mechanic doesn't have the stuff at hand he may not want to go there.

Best bet: the seals will need service or replacement sooner or later. Get the necesary replacement parts and change them out. You can then re-assemble with blue Loctite on the special screw so that in the future you can grease the seals in an annual service by removing the shift shaft without runing the seals or the screw or the washer.

BTW the new shift shaft is likley to come to you with horrible surface condition if the ones I have seen are typical. Chuck it up in a drill press and use a bit of crocus cloth to create a sealing quality suraface on the shaft before you install it.


Peter
 
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Bt Doctur

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Those seals do not let water into the drive. they might let water into the area of the shift cable but thats it.there is no service for those except replacement
 

PeterB26

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Beg to differ:

the shift cable cavity is on the same side of the bell housing gasket seal as the U-joint cavity. Just take a look. Water in the shift cable cavity is in the bell housing cavity as well..... and from there the to the front seal to the drive leg.

Elsewhere your are right, the only type of service LISTED for those seals is replacement.... but if you can get the shift shaft out you can pack some new grease in there. Better than nothing which is the official service procedure.

The shif shaft doesn't move around much compared to a drive shaft, so it shouldn't need much in the way of service... but bad surface finishes and salt water add up after a few seasons.

Peter
 
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