Stator 6hp non standard

Coq Circa

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Hi I have a Johnson 6hp '73 I think. Ignition coils are external beside the spark plugs. Can anyone identify this stator plate/magneto? It looks like a driver coil. Wasted spark type? But why the extra 2 coils?
 

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Nordin

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Those two coils are lighting coils.
I think your engine should have a lighting outlet at starboard side.
 

Coq Circa

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I haven't noticed a lighting outlet on the side. I'll have a closer look later when Im home. When I google this outboard most stators dont have that and the ht coils are on the stator and not beside the plugs.
 

racerone

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That is NOT a
" wasted spark " ignition.-----That would not be a 1973 model 6 HP.----Post pictures of this motor.----Post the model #
 

F_R

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That is the OMC LO-Tension Magneto. Most commonly used on 1974-76 9.9 & 15hp. Likely a 6hp commercial motor, or one built for the European market.
 

Coq Circa

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Here's the photos
 

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Coq Circa

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The year appears to be 1975, and indeed with 2 sets of points it would probably not be 'wasted spark', I made that assumption because of the single coil.
 

racerone

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Does this motor run ?----2 sets of magnets inside the flywheel ?----It is the 6 HP marketed overseas.--The extra coils are there to run boat lights.---Have never seen a 1975 with that ignition here.-----These are wonderful smooth running fishing motors.
 

Coq Circa

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Does this motor run ?----2 sets of magnets inside the flywheel ?----It is the 6 HP marketed overseas.--The extra coils are there to run boat lights.---Have never seen a 1975 with that ignition here.-----These are wonderful smooth running fishing motors.
I used it for a while about 10 years ago. I remember vaguely the ignotion advance plate turning on its own when pulling the pull cord causing problems. I fixed that. Now it runs on one cylinder. Points seem good, 20 thou, condensers seem ok. I tested them with a multimeter that counts up to 10 after you ground them. One counts up faster than the other. I'll need to test them with another multimeter that makes more sense. I need to test the HT coils and the driver coil. I'd say its the HT coil. They are bolted on beside the spark plugs The nuts on them are hard to get at. I can take the whole bracket off but thats held on by bolts in the head so I'll need a torque wrench to torque the head afterwards. I remember changing the impeller but didn't understand the care needed putting the shaft back into the engine taking care not to damage the cork seal and gudgeon. I think I got water in one cylinder as a result. Thats ok now. That one surprised me. I know they dont have high compression but pulling the chord alone I feel compression is good. Its a clean engine. It's was weeping oil from the gearbox at the prop. Thats fixed. There was no water in the gear box. Its a good engine. Clean. Heavy enough for a 6. I'd say I could put a bigger carb on it. The ignition plate is one I dont see when I search on the net for that engine. But I've seen a few for sale in France that come up. I'm in Ireland.
 
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Coq Circa

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btw... a good VOM test on a capacitor is not conclusive even when it test good. You realy need a high voltage test apparatus to test a hogh voltage leven to check leakage. may was well pop in some new ones.

I think I'll do that and the points as well. I found the problem I believe. There's a little play in the stator plate which affects the points gap for the plug thats miss firing. I took off the stator, it was oily around the shaft. I cleaned it and greased it. It worked better for a while because if the thickness of the grease reducing the play. Im not sure how to fix this without replacing the stator plate but as the ones I see for sale are used I cant be sure if there would be excess play in the one I was buying. Heres a few pic of the assembly. Can anyone inform me if anything is missing please?
 

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kbait

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The powerhead has a ‘boss’ where the armature plate fits. This is where the grease is. If you use a center punch on the side of the boss, and punch the sides at 12, three, six, and 9 o’clock, it will put up a small wave of metal which will take up that space, and no more lateral play that can change point gap while running. I’ve done this quick fix probably a hundred times (I work on smaller johnnyrudes for a living), and it works long term.
ps.. punch lightly and test fit.. if still loose, punch same spots again a bit harder.. do this until lateral play is gone, and just a very slight drag on armsturdy plate rotation. Add a spot of grease to each punch site and reassemble. Good luck!
 

F_R

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You mention grease taking up the slop in the plate. One problem we often see is over-zealous greasing. Grease splatters out from vibration, fouling the breaker points' contacts. A light smear is all you need.

It is slightly different than our 6hp motors here in U.S. More/relocated mounting holes in the rings. Be aware of that if you attempt to order parts. I assume you have the aluminum ring right side up? Flat side goes up.
 

Coq Circa

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Thanks kbait thats very useful! F_R, I wondered about the possibilities of fouling the points, not that I expected my over greasing would be a permanent solution 😁. I appreciate all the comments. I'm getting more confident that I'll get this motor working properly.
 

Coq Circa

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Just an update. An I punching in the right place? Thanks.
 

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Coq Circa

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More photos
 

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Coq Circa

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Striking this in 4 places seems to work better.
 

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