Starting issues with pertronix

VCarris

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Jul 12, 2016
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Good afternoon everyone,
I have an 88 2.3L Ford in my sunbird Corsair and I cannot get her to stay running. I have installed a new carburator, starter, pertronix elec ignition and coil, new wires, cap, rotor and CDI Shift Module and key switch. The first turn of the key after I installed the pertronix it stumbled like it was gonna start but didnt. A friend has got it to start and run but now it wont. When you turn the key it stumbles as if she wants to start but when you let off the key it dies. I have fuel and spark but cannot wrap my head around what I may be missing. Also does anyone know where the resistor wire is on this boat? Help guide me please.

Thanks
Virginia
 

southkogs

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Welcome aboard:

You've got fuel (and I assume that means the carb has been all checked and specced) and spark (assuming right firing order, timing, etc.), so the only two components left are air and compression, right? How's the compression on the cylinders?
 
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
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I'd be looking at firing order and timing too.

If you have spark, the ignition system is functioning fine.
 

Redrig

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I'd be looking at firing order and timing too.

If you have spark, the ignition system is functioning fine.

Yeah , you changed alot of components , with no mention of checking the base timing or firing order .

I bet everything is fine........you just have to set the timing .
 
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Benny67

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Apr 21, 2015
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Check your wiring on the coil...you may have left off the wire that feeds the coil the necessary 12Vdc to operate after the ignition switch is turned to the run position.

Did you replace the resistor wire?
 

Benny67

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I'd be looking at firing order and timing too.

If you have spark, the ignition system is functioning fine.

Just because you had spark when cranking does not mean you have spark when the key is in the run position.

Check your wiring diagram....there are 2 feeds to the coil. One for when the engine is cranking(starter slave solenoid) and one for when it's in the run position(coming from the electric choke...this is the resistance wire)

If the one from the choke is disconnected you wont have spark when the key is in the run position.

With the Pertronix setup the resistance wire is no longer needed. The module requires the full 12vdc to operate properly. It will burn out faster with the decreased voltage fed to it. You should take it out of circuit and replace it with a standard 14 or 18 awg wire...I believe an 18 awg is sufficient, but I would believe many on this forum would argue to use a 14 awg...se la vie...

FYI,

The NON resistance wire there to help the engine start when the battery voltage decays from the current surge of the starter engaging and when the engine key is in running position, the resistance wire carries the voltage to the points and in doing so, creates a small voltage drop across it to lower the voltage to the points to help them last longer, and hopefully decrease pitting ect.. The points can operate at around 10Vdc or so and still create a decent hot spark that allows the plugs to provide spark for combustion to happen.
 

VCarris

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Jul 12, 2016
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9
Everyone!
Thank you for the awesome feedback!
Carburetor is good, Timing was set, compression is good. I am going to check all of the connections on the coil and have that damn resistor wire replaced asap and will be back to let you know what the outcome is.
 

EliRosieNY

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Jul 4, 2016
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I'm also looking for resistor wire. Please let me know if and where you find some... thank you
 

bruceb58

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Mar 5, 2006
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Unplug the ESA and see if that makes any difference. If it does, you shift switch is probably engaged.
 

VCarris

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Jul 12, 2016
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Ok guys bare with me please I am a newbie and doing this alone.....I did the low voltage test that pertronix recommended and the boat did not start. .so I looked at all the wiring to the coil.. I do not have an electronic choke on my carburetor. I used to but my mechanic buddy rebuilt and put the original carb on and it does not have an electronic choke. So there is a wire there (its capped off) the other end is connected to the ac stud on the alternator. CDI inc told me that the resistor wire is the purple wire that goes to the ESA. This is my wiring diagram....
2012-04-16_230431_scan0011.jpg
 
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bruceb58

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That is not correct...the resistor wire is #20 in your diagram.
 

bruceb58

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With the Pertronix setup the resistance wire is no longer needed.
This is not correct. You still need the resistance wire to the coil. The Pertronix module needs full 12V however and should be driven from the purple wire before it hits the resistor wire.
 

VCarris

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Jul 12, 2016
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This is not correct. You still need the resistance wire to the coil. The Pertronix module needs full 12V however and should be driven from the purple wire before it hits the resistor wire.

Ok....so how do I do that? Pertronix paperwork said to bypass resistor wires or to find alternate source so that the unit can have 12v at all times.
 
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bruceb58

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You still need the resistor wire to the coil. Only the Pertronix needs full 12V. Look at your diagram. You have full 12V at the excite to your alternator. You can add a wire to that if you want.
 

Benny67

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Apr 21, 2015
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571
Or better...call the manufacturer.

What's your coils resistance? It should be considered in this upgrade..

The pertronix setup is meant to have the coil and module changed as a set.

I changed mine as a set

my advice would be:

1) read the manufacturers instructions

2)do as it recommends

3) take all advice, mine as well, as a guideline to draw your own conclusion.

My opinion is once you go with that module that resistance wire should be removed....look at others experience installing the device....

Good luck
 

Benny67

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What's the pertronix part number? I would like to read the instructions myself out of curiosity
 

bruceb58

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http://www.pertronix.com/support/man...itor12vneg.pdf

OP...Don't waste your money buying the Pertronix coil. It doesn't buy you anything and does not need to be installed as a set with the ignitor. As you already know, the ignitior is bought separately for the exact reason it doesn't need the Pertronix coil.
 
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VCarris

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Jul 12, 2016
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I do have an accel part # 8140 super stock coil on it.....Well I read the instructions and did the pertronix low voltage test as outlined in the instructions and it concluded low voltage.... my buddy stopped by and did some tests and when the key is in the run position the coil voltage dropped to 4v so we left the resistor wire off the coil and it still would drop to 4v. even with pertonix hooked to other 12v source so we ran a wire from alternator 12v to coil and she starts and purrs like a kitten! Just worried about coil taking 12v constant.

Benny part number 9ML-141C its the Ignitor II (the booklet states either eliminate resistor or grab 12v before resistor)
 

Benny67

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http://www.pertronix.com/support/man...itor12vneg.pdf

OP...Don't waste your money buying the Pertronix coil. It doesn't buy you anything and does not need to be installed as a set with the ignitor. As you already know, the ignitior is bought separately for the exact reason it doesn't need the Pertronix coil.

again...read their instructions, maybe search this forum for past experiences and draw your own conclusion.
 
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