Starting issue

[freerider8]

So to all you boat experts here. I have Beretta Super Sport 18 ft with a Volvo Penta engine. My issue is some kind of starting issue which seems to be either the ignition switch or the starter? I took the boat out today for the first time this year after having it stored all winter. Had it winterized by a Professional and had it running prior to taking it out today. While heading out of the channel in the lake I went to give it more throttle and the boat died. Went to restart it and no engagement of the ignition at all. Have power to all other accessories but it would not even engage the starter. After a fellow boater towed me back to the dock and getting it tied off I tried again and it turned over a couple of times but then back to no engagement of the starter at all. Got it home and tried it again and the boat started and it ran. I was going to try replacing the ignition switch first but is it possible it could be the starter. I also just replaced both batteries this week.

 

[alldodge]

If you turn the key and you get a hard clunk then might be the starter
If you turn the key and hear nothing it might be the key switch or start relay
If you turn the key and hear a light or faint click then might be the start relay

What happens when key is turned?

Also what VP motor, EFI, MPI, Carb, size? Serial numbers are best

 

[freerider8]

If you turn the key and you get a hard clunk then might be the starter
If you turn the key and hear nothing it might be the key switch or start relay
If you turn the key and hear a light or faint click then might be the start relay

What happens when key is turned?

Also what VP motor, EFI, MPI, Carb, size? Serial numbers are best

I hear nothing when you turn the ignition over. It's complete silence. No clunking noises or clicks. The VP is a 4 cylinder with a single carburetor that was just completely rebuilt last year. I will have to look up the serial numbers for the motor.

 

[alldodge]

Being a 3.0 we should be good without serial number for current issue

Get a voltmeter and measure on the back of the key switch on Red/Purple wire, you should show 12V.

Turn key to start and measure Yellow/red wire, there should be 12V. If you do not get 12V then its the switch. Might need to try a few times if it does work first time to verify

If 12V on Yell/red wire, then find start relay with same Yell/red small wire. It will have a large and small Yell/red wires on it. Looking to see if 12V shows up when key is turned to start. If it does, and connections are clean and tight, then most likely need a relay

 

[freerider8]

Being a 3.0 we should be good without serial number for current issue

Get a voltmeter and measure on the back of the key switch on Red/Purple wire, you should show 12V.

Turn key to start and measure Yellow/red wire, there should be 12V. If you do not get 12V then its the switch. Might need to try a few times if it does work first time to verify

If 12V on Yell/red wire, then find start relay with same Yell/red small wire. It will have a large and small Yell/red wires on it. Looking to see if 12V shows up when key is turned to start. If it does, and connections are clean and tight, then most likely need a relay

Ok great, thanks for the help. I will look into that. Would the relay be attached to the starter or in a separate location? I am new to the boating world and have not done much work on boats yet. Cars and Trucks are a whole different animal, at least I am more familiar anyways. When I go behind the dash panel on the boat it's wire city.

 

[alldodge]

It would be close to the engine breaker. Looks like a small square cube

 

[froggy1150]

When I troubleshoot things like this I like to use a incandescent test light with a high current bulb. Not led. A meter will show the presence of voltage regardless of the ability to carry any kind of current. I would start at the starter solenoid and work backwards. Don't forget neutral saftey switch and grounds

 

[Sprig]

Before I did anything else I would check all the connections. The battery terminal connections, the ground connection (especially the ground connections)
and the starter connections. Check that they are tight and check that they are clean and clear of rust. If all is well then I’d proceed as above.

 

[freerider8]

So I found the relay that is connected to the starter and checked the connections on the starter and they are clean and tight. Going to take the ground off the engine block and clean them and reconnect. I think I am going to change the ignition switch and relay since they are inexpensive to change and then play with it in the driveway and see how the boat responds and see if I can replicate the symptom. If it reoccurs then take the starter out and see about having it rebuilt. Hopefully this fixes the issue.
Thanks for all the input so far.

 

[alldodge]

One thing I left out is the neutral safety switch in the throttle handle. Turn key to start and hold, then move the throttle back and forth slightly to see if it engages

 

[nola mike]

So I found the relay that is connected to the starter and checked the connections on the starter and they are clean and tight. Going to take the ground off the engine block and clean them and reconnect. I think I am going to change the ignition switch and relay since they are inexpensive to change and then play with it in the driveway and see how the boat responds and see if I can replicate the symptom. If it reoccurs then take the starter out and see about having it rebuilt. Hopefully this fixes the issue.
Thanks for all the input so far.

You'd be better off actually troubleshooting the problem rather than throwing parts at it and wasting your time and money...

 

[freerider8]

One thing I left out is the neutral safety switch in the throttle handle. Turn key to start and hold, then move the throttle back and forth slightly to see if it engages

Oh man I completely forgot about that. That did happen to me once before, but this time it stalled when I was giving it more throttle but didn't even think when I put it back in neutral that it may not have been in neutral all the way. The throttle is a little stiff so I am going to look into trying to see about loosening it up some. Is it possible to lube up the cables on them like I can on my motorcycle when it needs it?

 

[freerider8]

You'd be better off actually troubleshooting the problem rather than throwing parts at it and wasting your time and money...

I get that, but these are a cheaper alternative to what I think it was. I was thinking of changing out the ignition switch anyways.

 

[nola mike]

I get that, but these are a cheaper alternative to what I think it was. I was thinking of changing out the ignition switch anyways.

1. Troubleshooting is free
2. Why would you change out a working part?

 

[freerider8]

1. Troubleshooting is free
2. Why would you change out a working part?

I know, but the ignition was giving me issues anyway. It is always loosening up inside the dashboard despite trying to keep it tight. Less then 50 bucks for both parts. Any suggestions on helping the shifter be easier to use?

 

[alldodge]

Haven't found a way to lube cables, but most time its the shifter. They can be taken apart and greased

 

[froggy1150]

So I have an omc antique with the true course steering. Well that cable assembly was gummed up so what I did to clean and lube that assembly was I took the slave drum assembly and fed it into a container turned I to a "funnel". Sealed the sheathed end good, hung it in my sons tree house. Then I filled it with trans fluid because it has detergent and cycled the steering wheel until I had clean fluid coming out. Then I did the same with oil. To replace my cable ..... if I could find one would have been spendy so it was worth it to me to try this and it did work. Just took me the better part of a day

 

[freerider8]

I plan on taking the shifter off this weekend and working on it so I can see what it looks like behind it and try and lube the cables if I can. I will share my findings and results when done.

 

[nola mike]

So I have an omc antique with the true course steering. Well that cable assembly was gummed up so what I did to clean and lube that assembly was I took the slave drum assembly and fed it into a container turned I to a "funnel". Sealed the sheathed end good, hung it in my sons tree house. Then I filled it with trans fluid because it has detergent and cycled the steering wheel until I had clean fluid coming out. Then I did the same with oil. To replace my cable ..... if I could find one would have been spendy so it was worth it to me to try this and it did work. Just took me the better part of a day

I did something like this with a steering cable. Worked for a bit, but failed within a season or so. For the amount of work involved, might as well replace the cable if available