Re: Starter wont disengage, engine wont start
The proper starting method is to turn the key to the start position, then when the enging starts cranking over, push the key in to activate the fuel primer solenoid. Look upon that fuel primer solenoid as an electric choke as the result function is the same. Think about it... would pushing the key in eight times on a engine equipped with a electric choke accomplish anything?
With the engine cranking over, the vaccum and pressure created within the crankcase activates the fuel pump (regardless of what pump your engine might have), and that in turn cause a pulse of pressure to force fuel through the fuel primer solenoid to the intake manifold.
Where do these weird and incorrect instructions come from?
The engines dating from 1973 to the present must turn over at least 300 rpm in order for the stator to energize the powerpack capacitor. Anything less will result in weak or no ignition (spark).
(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)
The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position. Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pass thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.
Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.
The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.
Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.
The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.
Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold passageways. Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.
Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.
Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position. Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.
(Starter Solenoid Sticking)
(J. Reeves)
Sooner or later a boater will encounter a situation where the key is released from the START to the RUN position, or to the OFF position and the boater suddenly realizes that the electric starter is still running. This is due to having the starter solenoid sticking in the closed (contact) position. Sometimes a whack to the solenoid will unstick it temporarily but usually it's necessary to remove the cable from the battery.
The cause? A weak battery or even a top notch battery that is running low in power causes a arcing within the solenoid that eventually welds the two opposing large terminals together.... the two opposing terminals being the large incoming positive battery solenoid terminal connection and the large terminal leading from the solenoid to the starter. The return spring within the solenoid simply isn't strong enough to break that weld resulting in the continued flow of voltage to the starter.
The cure? If the battery is flawed, get rid of it and purchase a top notch battery. And also...... Replace the solenoid. Don't play with it, trusting that it won't happen again because it absolutely will, and that happening is usually in the worse possible senario.
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