I have a 1976 120 hp OMC- Pontoon boat that was recently rewired and having a significant battery drain
with everything off. While running through a wiring diagram I obtained on this site AFTER the boat was rewired, I discovered that the battery drain could be related to the final destination of a 10 gauge
black wire that was connected to the postive 3/8" brass stud on the starting selenoid and, from there ran to the helm and was connected to the negative side of a buss bar. In addition to the black wire
described above, there was a 10 gauge orange wire from the alternator, the 4 gauge red wire from the battery and a 10 gauge red wire that connected to the slave selenoid on the left side post. All of the red wires described above are attached to the same 3/8" brass stud as the" suspect" black wire.A 10 gauge black wire ran from a 1/4" silver stud on the right side of the selenoid to the right side post on the slave selenoid.
The original wiring harness at the helm not include the 10 gauge black wire. There is a 10 gauge brown
wire coming out of the harness at the helm that also fed to the negative side of the buss bar. I disconnected the 10 gauge black wire at the negative buss, left the brown connected and, everything
seems to be working OK although I am still using at quick screw off disconnect to the postive battery
terminal when I leave the boat unattended for any length of time.
I am using a new deep cycle marine battery with 875 cold cranking amps and 125 reserve amps. using a
1.5 amp trickle charger to maintain battery when boat not is use. Any help with the starter and buss
wiring hook up will be greatly appreciated.
Joe Bud45
With respect to the buss bar, the 10 gauge red wire runs from the bar to the "B" on the ignition switch.
The orange 10 gauge wire from the wiring harness at the helm is connected to the positive buss bar.
I am assuming it is originating from the alternator and is connected to the " I" on the ignition switch.
A 10 gauge dark blue wire runs from the " s" on the ignition switch to the top post of the slave selenoid.
I have since learned that this was also wired incorrectly since the safety neutral switch was bypassed
allowing the boat to be cranked while in gear.
The buss bar is feeding a 35 amp 7 position fused panel for horn, bilge pump, blower,running lights,
and radio. The buss bar was also supplying power to the ignition switch.
with everything off. While running through a wiring diagram I obtained on this site AFTER the boat was rewired, I discovered that the battery drain could be related to the final destination of a 10 gauge
black wire that was connected to the postive 3/8" brass stud on the starting selenoid and, from there ran to the helm and was connected to the negative side of a buss bar. In addition to the black wire
described above, there was a 10 gauge orange wire from the alternator, the 4 gauge red wire from the battery and a 10 gauge red wire that connected to the slave selenoid on the left side post. All of the red wires described above are attached to the same 3/8" brass stud as the" suspect" black wire.A 10 gauge black wire ran from a 1/4" silver stud on the right side of the selenoid to the right side post on the slave selenoid.
The original wiring harness at the helm not include the 10 gauge black wire. There is a 10 gauge brown
wire coming out of the harness at the helm that also fed to the negative side of the buss bar. I disconnected the 10 gauge black wire at the negative buss, left the brown connected and, everything
seems to be working OK although I am still using at quick screw off disconnect to the postive battery
terminal when I leave the boat unattended for any length of time.
I am using a new deep cycle marine battery with 875 cold cranking amps and 125 reserve amps. using a
1.5 amp trickle charger to maintain battery when boat not is use. Any help with the starter and buss
wiring hook up will be greatly appreciated.
Joe Bud45
With respect to the buss bar, the 10 gauge red wire runs from the bar to the "B" on the ignition switch.
The orange 10 gauge wire from the wiring harness at the helm is connected to the positive buss bar.
I am assuming it is originating from the alternator and is connected to the " I" on the ignition switch.
A 10 gauge dark blue wire runs from the " s" on the ignition switch to the top post of the slave selenoid.
I have since learned that this was also wired incorrectly since the safety neutral switch was bypassed
allowing the boat to be cranked while in gear.
The buss bar is feeding a 35 amp 7 position fused panel for horn, bilge pump, blower,running lights,
and radio. The buss bar was also supplying power to the ignition switch.